My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

No make the halflap 12" long...

If I had to make 12 ft stringers, I'd probably use 3/8" ply and make the stringers a double lamination. GT1M did.
2 4X8 sheets of 3/8" will make 2 12ft stringers &leave you a 2X8 scrap


Ahhh.....I am following now. That make sense!! Thanks!
 

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Well, had a pretty productive day......Started out like this:

IMG_20131006_101726_523_zps684e1d26.jpg

Ended like this:

IMG_20131006_153624_504_zps376c1e2e.jpg

IMG_20131006_153636_818_zpsc960332e.jpg



All major grinding complete!!!

Now a couple questions, there was a piece of glass delaminated in the transom about 10 in wide on top, tapering to a point (triangle). I ground it back till I got to good glass. (similar to what Trooper82 was finding on his hull) Can build it up prior to putting transom wood on????

OK, next weekend is start fabbing transom and stringers: I keep seeing plywood type go back and forth - Marine/Exterior grade plywood.

I am thinking that I will use exterior grade, with this thought, I will be putting this back together better than factory, all wood completely encase and resin soaked. I figure that every buck I can save with be able to be used on something else during this build......

If Im off base, please let me know, thanks and have a great rest of your weekend.......for me, its time for a beverage of the " adult nature " and some football/momma's firehouse chili!!!! Summer heat in Kansas has finally broke!!!!!
 
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GT1000000

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Looking real good...
Just a quick question...???...You DO have the hull properly supported...Right?
OK...as far as building the area back up, yes, it is a good idea to apply a layer or two of CSM/1708 to achieve the basic original thickness, however it doesn't have to be a perfect match, since you will be using a thick PB to install the transom, which is similar to what tile installers do with the tile mud, they use it to make everything level...
As for the choice in wood...
Personally I would spend the extra dough on Marine Grade for the transom plates because it is supposed to be pretty much void free...
What that translates to is that it should be solid, through and through, which should hopefully avoid a situation where you install a bolt through and due to a hidden void, would tend to collapse/crush that spot...make sense?
For the rest of the structure, a good quality exterior grade is fine...
Keep up the great progress!
:D
 

jbcurt00

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Look for Auroco plywood, it's a bit more then exterior grade but much less then marine. It's available in some areas. I've only seen it once in WV & it was 4+hrs from the house.....

It's got more laminations then typical ext grade ply, fewer voids & a better grade of face ply..... and is made w/ exterior glue.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

I agree about using 3/8 for the stringers. Much stronger and better. Aruaco plywood is 7 ply and almost NO voids. Really good for transoms. If you can't get it in Wichita, go to a Quality lumber yard and see if you can order some MDO NOT MDF. MDO has a RESIN Coating on it and Is also 7 ply. Used for making exterior signs. Kinda Pricey but cheaper than Marine grade and every bit as good as Marine Grade.
 

Trooper82

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Feels good to have the grinding done doesn't it?

I vote for the Auroco ply too, I was able to find some down in Louisiana just after the plant burned down. I think they have that situation resolved now though...

Make sure you are going to be puttign some CSM down on the pieces you are resin soaking, resin nees the glass to be strong...I like the idea of the 3/8" for those long stringers too...

Have a fast week!
 

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Thanks guys for the input......on the hunt for some Aruaco plywood!!!!
 

Woodonglass

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Home Depot Carries it as well!
 

Auger01

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

To echo what WOG said, make double dang sure that your hull planing surfaces are true before you start to rebuild. Thank me later.
 

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

To echo what WOG said, make double dang sure that your hull planing surfaces are true before you start to rebuild. Thank me later.

Auger, can you explain what you mean exactly?

Anybody heard of these guys or used their stuff.....saveonfiberglass.com
 

jbcurt00

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Auger is referring to the hull's shape. Specifically, the back half of the hull, as the boat rises up on plane & levels out, less & less of the forward portions of the hull are in contact w/ the water.

If there is any humps or dips in the hull's surface, it will greatly effect the hull's performance & ride quality....

You want to make sure that the hull is aligned correctly as it was originally on your support cradle BEFORE you start fabricating & installing ANY stringers, bulkheads, transom or deck......

Depending on what the previous owner did to the boat beyond the mess at the bow, it could be challenging, but doable......

That glass site didn't seem to be less then US Comp, is it close to you so you don't have to pay shipping?
 

archbuilder

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

They are right, spend sometime making sure the hull is "square and true". you can do this to a certain extent by measuring from corner to corner so to speak, but a lot of it is just eyeballing the hull to make sure the shape is smooth and continuous, no lumps, bumps, or sags Make sure the sides don't bow out, also.
 

Auger01

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

That is an cool looking boat by the way, I havent seen many of those.

With the Glastron Aqua Lift hull, a 4-6' level can be used to ensure that there is no hook or rocker in the hull.

When I saw that you switched trailers, that made me nervous with no structure in the hull.

If that hull is similar to mine, and I believe it is, the sides near the top are going to be quite flexible until the cap is reattached. There is no point in trying to anchor them down at the top because of this.
 
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Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Thanks all for the advice, much appreciated!

Auger, you aren't kidding.....I was shocked how flimsy the sides seem....

I won today....found a place locally that i can get glass resin by bulk!!! No hazmat shipping costs for me!!!!

Have a good night....
 

archbuilder

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Sounds like you scored! By the way, stocked up on Bevo-Burgers for Saturday?
 

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

Arch, you better believe it!! Not much will be getting done tomorrow....BOOMER SOONER!!!!!
 

Corjen1

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

OK, picked up plywood to start making transom and stringers tomorrow. I got to wondering, what about getting all the wood, fabing everything (transom, stringers, fuel cell floor, deck ect) and then doing all the glassing.....thoughts????
 

Trooper82

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Re: My 1968 Glastron GT160 rebuild......

As long as you have the place to store it i think that would work...skinning the parts can go quick..myself I think I did a dry run several times fitting things together before proceeding with the glassing for the most part...
 
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