Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

I have one more question (However this will not be my last). What do you guys use to fill the void between the stringer and the fiberglass hull? I have been watching all of FriscoBoater's videos on YouTube on his Sea Ray restoration and I noticed he uses 5200. Just wondering if that's the best rout to go? So, should I figure buying some 5200, more fiberglass or some mystery formula in the equation of money out of pocket ratio?

Also, thank you for the links on the PB! That answered my questions! As I said I have been watching FriscoBoater's videos so to see the way he puts his PB together was nice, seems like he knows what he's doing (if not, he sure plays it off VERY well).

I know I have thanked you guys many times now, but I have to do it yet again here... I really could not do this without you guys so I'm very grateful for everyone's help on this project! My sincere appreciation is not expressed enough in words. I can't thank you guys enough for all the help you have provided me with thus far and your willingness to follow my project and point me in the right direction on it, is so gratefully appreciated. Again, THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!

(I just noticed I have moved up in the ranks here on iboats forum, I'm now a Seaman Apprentice... That's so messed up! HAHAHAHAHA!)
 

tallcanadian

Captain
Joined
Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,245
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Yeah, I'm going to be using peanut butter as well. I've seen people like frisco use 5200 or even pl premium.
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Thank you!

By the way Wood, that page is excellent, good job on putting that together! But what do you mean by tabbing?
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Well, I wasn't able to do much work this weekend on the boat like I would have liked to. However, I picked up in the garage a little more to make room for use of the heater and room to store the motor. I was also able to take out some of the wiring and I removed the rubber bumper around the outside of the boat. I also made a stand for the motor using a pallet and some wood I had laying around. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of those mover's platforms, removed the casters and used them on the motor stand. The next picture I post will have the motor on it! I didn't get a chance to remove the motor unfortunately but it's coming soon... baby steps! Hope everyone had a GREAT weekend!

2012-12-02_20-07-25_675.jpg
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Good day Peter and sorry to be late to the party.

On your very first post I can tell you that you have a HOLE in your boat ( probably a few of them ).

Your gonna have to take the boat off the trailer and shore it up.

It probably happend when this boat jumped on the crappy/missaligned trailer ( big jump ).

I dont need a magic 8 ball to tell me that you have some grinding and glassing inside and out to tell your future.

Depending if the repairs are too close to the stringers/bulkeads .. you might have some very serious Technical repairs on your hands.

No matter which case .. I would need more pics of YOUR boat in the repair zone before I could recommend anything. So far ( as far as I can tell ) the only set of pics of the damage is in your first Post in this thread. Could we have more please.

Im not gonna sugar coat this for you .. you may have extensive repairs that in the long run might not be worth it. Sure you say Gut it. .. But the safety equipment alone should cost you about $150.00.

Another consideration is location .. I hope you understand that when you start Fuming your house with Resin and Dusting every square inch of your garage that .. well that might create a problem.

Peeps that think that their going to be doing a full resto in there garage with a heater do not come with some other factors ( such as your wife and kids leaving for the week to Aunty Janes house .. or making a full blown tent around Everything .. and so on .. ).

Mebbe Im missing something here .. please keep up the pics of the REPAIRS as well as all the other things :) .

Peace.

YD.
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Good day Peter and sorry to be late to the party.

On your very first post I can tell you that you have a HOLE in your boat ( probably a few of them ).

Your gonna have to take the boat off the trailer and shore it up.

It probably happend when this boat jumped on the crappy/missaligned trailer ( big jump ).

I dont need a magic 8 ball to tell me that you have some grinding and glassing inside and out to tell your future.

Depending if the repairs are too close to the stringers/bulkeads .. you might have some very serious Technical repairs on your hands.

No matter which case .. I would need more pics of YOUR boat in the repair zone before I could recommend anything. So far ( as far as I can tell ) the only set of pics of the damage is in your first Post in this thread. Could we have more please.

Im not gonna sugar coat this for you .. you may have extensive repairs that in the long run might not be worth it. Sure you say Gut it. .. But the safety equipment alone should cost you about $150.00.

Another consideration is location .. I hope you understand that when you start Fuming your house with Resin and Dusting every square inch of your garage that .. well that might create a problem.

Peeps that think that their going to be doing a full resto in there garage with a heater do not come with some other factors ( such as your wife and kids leaving for the week to Aunty Janes house .. or making a full blown tent around Everything .. and so on .. ).

Mebbe Im missing something here .. please keep up the pics of the REPAIRS as well as all the other things :) .

Peace.

YD.

Thank you for jumping on board! I can promise you this... This will get entertaining! I have been doing some home work on what this sucker is going to cost me and I'm in the ballpark of $1000 - $1300 area I shouldn't go over $1500 but I like to get a little crazy and go overboard with stuff (esp. electronics). I have not had the time to finish cutting the deck... let me rephrase that I have not had the time to take all the measurements and then cut the deck out.

I'm going to be removing the motor here very soon and once I make that happen I'm going to either knock out most of the floor followed by a de-cap or I'm going to go righ for the de-cap. It really all depends on the money situation. If I don't have any money in the budget, I'm going to start working on the floor first. I need to purchase some wood to make a cradle for the boat so I can start grinding everything down. I also, think I'm going to fill the boat with some water to see if there are any other holes or cracks, after a visual inspection. We will see what kind of time and money I have for this upcoming week along with the temp outside.

As for my garage set up, it's not attach to my house (thank god)! I don't have to worry to much about fumes other than when I have my 150,000 btu beast of heater pumping. Also, I will be using a epoxy resin that TAP Plastics manufactures that does not put off to bad fumes. After researching and speaking to a very knowledgeable employee at TAP Plastics, I and he believes with all factors in play that this is going to be the best product for the job.

I truly looking forward to working on this project more and more, seeing I'm limited to the weekend to work on it, I sit on the computer and research the next step all week anticipating Saturday to come around. Normally by the weekend I have my plans drawn out, listed in steps, a parts list and any additional tools I will need. Then to top it off I look around for the best products for the job and what deals I can find. There are many benefits to taking your time between steps! lol! I might be thinking just a little to much into it though...hahaha!

As for pictures every time I'm out in the garage I take a couple of pictures to post my progress. and I list what I'm doing along with some questions or just some thoughts! Anyways, subscribe to the thread and follow along! The more people the better! Thank you for your comment!

Thank you,
Peter
 

denlynn36

Seaman
Joined
Sep 29, 2012
Messages
60
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Just read through your forum and it makes me smile... one thing I love about iBoats is it gives us that "your not alone" conformation :)

I had a lot of the same thoughts you had at first. When I first got my boat I knew it was in bad shape but I thought, Its a boat.. it floats.. how bad can it be? The only stringer Id ever heard of was the one I put my blue gills on. Anyway, thanks to this forum and so many here like Wood and JB, i kept with it. Now my new transom is in and I just spent the weekend glassing... and I love it! Its my new passion. Im almost upset that it might actually get finished someday, then what am I going to do with myself? lol

Keep at it and good luck! It will be sooo worth it.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Well then.. I envy your enthusiasm :) ..

As I have said .. you Might consider the unexpected ;) ..

Can catch up on you quickly.

Just saying.

YD.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Uhmmm, Why do you think Epoxy is going to be better for your project than Polyester Resin? What are your specific reasons?
 

a1964rn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
287
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

I recommend you download this free book. It has a LOT of very useful information, especially when working with epoxy.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...k 061205.pdf

I'm using epoxy on my boat restore and even though it's more expensive (about $100 for 5 gallons), I think it's worth it.
Good luck!
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Well, my reasons behind using epoxy rather than Poly, is because the it has the ability to cure in 40 degree temp. Seeing that it's winter and I live in Buffalo, NY I figured maintaining my garage at 40 degrees would be a lot easier than the temps associated with using a Poly resin. Also, seeing that I'm using a torpedo heater that has an open flame I would like to keep the fumes to a minimum. Poly has a less pungent aroma so again it will be easier to vent my garage along with withstanding the temperatures needed for curing. Also, the cure time is 2.5 - 3 hours in these conditions, which again is maintainable for the venting and temperature restrictions I'm set forth with.

Well, I kind of had a bad day yesterday so when I got home from work late last night (this morning) around 12:30am, I decided I was going to go outside and start disconnecting all the steering, electrical and throttle cables from the engine and label them, to have the motor ready to be disconnected. Which everything went good! However I reached over the boat and grabbed a wrench I felt a little pop in my shoulder, didn't really phase me. Now this morning I can't move my neck and barley move my right arm... So, my bad day goes into day 2. Hopefully I will feel better by this weekend because if I don't it's gonna suck working on this boat! I'm not, NOT working on it this weekend so if I have to endure pain, so be it! lol!

Dr. Yacht, I'm always expecting the unexpected! hahaha! above is a GREAT example. Nothing, especially in my life goes to plan, I wouldn't expect this restoration to come and go with no issues, it just wouldn't be natural!

denlynn36, as I have expressed in this thread, I don't think I would have even considered working on this boat if it wasn't for the good people on this forum! Notable reference (sorry, if I left you out): TallCanadian, JB, Wood, GT1000000. They gave me a kick in the *** and pointed out that I have a piece of junk so you can try to fix it or it can just remain a piece of junk. Seeing I do have carpentry, electrical and some automotive skills, I figured fiberglass can't be that hard to do, I should be able to tackle this project so now that these guys talked me into putting a larger dent in my pocket, I'm going for it! To sum it up I know what you're saying the guys on this forum are AWESOME!

a1964rn thanks for the link and the info! I looked at U.S. Composites and I didn't see any fast hardeners listed that can cure in low temps. I will check again though, I could use to save some money somewhere! I think I'm going to go with a little cheaper fiberglass once I coat the deck because I won't have to worry about curing temperature. I intend on doing this in the spring, because that foam doesn't work properly in cold temps so I have to wait to foam it and I don't intend on cutting through the new fiberglass if I don't need to. I'll cut the deck, foam then patch the deck a couple layers of glass then carpet it! DONE!

Again, thanks for the help and following this thread! I'll be putting an update on this weekend!
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

All good Reasons for using epoxy. It's your call and your money. I just hope your wallet can stand the HIT!!!:D It will cost you about $300 bucks more to do the boat. I used to think the Poly fumes were highly flammable. Research and the Pro's have convinced me that this is NOT the case. The STINK IS a problem!!!!!:eek: You do have to have the temps for the Poly and the substrate above 60 for about an hour in order for the Poly to flash off, After that, as long as it does not Freeze within the next 12 hours your good to go.

I think you'll find the USComposites 4 to 1 Epoxy has the same properties as the TAP Epoxy. @ 40? it will have about a 3-4 hour cure time and 8-10 hour dry time. Approx. $250 per 5 Gallons. You will prolly end up using 15 gallons by the time you're all done.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Another thing about Epoxy .. it just does not have the Workability that poly does.

Its .. just .. different.

Some epoxies 'liquify' during its curing/heat stage .. creating drainage problems. Air bubbles galore.

Now VE resin might be better suited to you.

Or even a cold cure additive might investigated on your part to show how poly can be used in colder climates.

I agree that epoxy is better suited for garage connected households without proper evacuation. In some cases I would even suggest epoxy due to the simple fact that poly fumes off and you might be fine with it .. but the kiddies might not. Just be prepared for the nuances of Epoxy ( extra brushes .. possibly a small pot or fresh mixed epoxy on the fly and your bubble rollers ).

YD.
 

a1964rn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
287
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

PAT plastics epoxy (4:1) with the fast hardener is about $245 for 2.5 gallons. US Composites has the 4:1 epoxy for $122 for the 2.5 gallons. If you keep the epoxy warm until you mix it, you should be OK. The set time and drying time on both of these is listed for 80 degrees. At 40 degrees, the set and drying times listed will be longer. Be sure to read their literature and product info.
I doubt very seriously that you'll need 15 gallons, but I could be wrong.

FAQ from USA Composites about cold weather:
34. Can I work with the epoxy in cold weather?

Yes. Our 4:1 ratio Fast Hardener can be used down to 45 degree, and the 3:1 Medium hardener down to 55 degrees. Please be aware however that the drying times will be significantly longer at these lower temperatures. Also, epoxy gets thicker as your temperature gets colder and it can make the saturating of fiberglass more difficult.

With that heater you have, you shouldn't have too much of an issue keeping it warm. The epoxy is non-flammable and doesn't produce much odor.

Either way, good luck!
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

Thanks everyone for the information! I was thinking more along the lines of using epoxy just for the repairs to the hull and maybe for the stringers. I can get away with going to poly as I stated I will have to wait for it to warm up to foam the boat and I don't intend to glass the deck until the foam is in. So I think I should be able to get away with 2.5 gallons - 5gallons depending on how many other flaws I find in the hull once the floor is removed.

If there really is such a significant difference in price between TAP Plastics and U.S. Composites, I'm going to have to give another look to U.S. Composites. $122 for 2.5 gallons is not that bad at all! I still have a lot of work to do before I get to fiberglass but it's right around the corner here and buying the product soon is going to be something I need to do.

Now let me ask you guys this:
Do you think it would be overkill if after I patched any and all cracks and holes I find in the hull I put down a layer or 2 of glass on the hull just for some extra reinforcement from the inside? I personally think it would be a good idea seeing that the fiberglass is 34 years old. however I don't know if that would really be necessary. What do you guys thing? Do you think it's something that I should consider doing?

Again, thank you for following my thread and for all the information! You guys are AWESOME!
 

Peter9Do

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
120
Re: Damaged Hull -- Pictures

I recommend you download this free book. It has a LOT of very useful information, especially when working with epoxy.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...k 061205.pdf

I'm using epoxy on my boat restore and even though it's more expensive (about $100 for 5 gallons), I think it's worth it.
Good luck!

By the way this link is not working, I forgot to tell you yesterday... Where did you come across this book from? I would really like to look it over. Thanks again!
 

a1964rn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 18, 2012
Messages
287
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