Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Curved. When I took out the old transom it did not look curved, but it was rotten so it may have been originally. Why would you have a curve in an outboard transom?

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Curved. When I took out the old transom it did not look curved, but it was rotten so it may have been originally. Why would you have a curve in an outboard transom?

I had the same problem. What I did was set my transom in and used the WOG clamps and applied some heat (lights) and let it sit for a week (it was cold). That made my gap smaller. I then glued my transom in. The big problem was getting the portion of the cap I cut back in, this is where I had to cut my splashwell and reconstruct. When I got it all together I then realized the cap and transom didn't line up when I tore it apart some type of filler was used.

I think why yours and my transoms were curved is that our transoms were weak for a long time and the weight of our motors caused it to be curved outward.

This just caused me to use a lot of hairy PB to make sure gap is filled. The skin straightened out nicely with the WOG clamps. When I tabbed my transom in my first layer of 1708 was on vertical axis then for the second layer I cut strips and placed them on a horizontal axis wet on wet. My transom seems to be very strong of course I won't truely know until I get it on the water and probably several years later. I do know it is better than what I had.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Bill was yours curved at the bottom where the transom skin meets the hull bottom? It seems to me that that part won't be able to be pulled in by the clamps because it is supported by the hull bottom. I thought about using a belt sander and shaping the wood to match the curve but I will try the clamps and heat first. How much PB did you use to glue in transom?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Some MFG did make the stern/transom with a slight curve. Not sure why. Wish we would have known we could have allowed for it earlier. Your best bet is to do exactly what you're suggesting with the belt sander. If you can get it to within 1/8 to 1/4" then you're good to go. The clamps will do the rest.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Bill was yours curved at the bottom where the transom skin meets the hull bottom? It seems to me that that part won't be able to be pulled in by the clamps because it is supported by the hull bottom. I thought about using a belt sander and shaping the wood to match the curve but I will try the clamps and heat first. How much PB did you use to glue in transom?

Mine was more at the top and more specificly where the motor was attached to the boat, Like you I didn't notice until I but my transom in. I won't tell you how long I had it in there looking at it going WTF but I can tell you it took a six pack of thinking.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

From the pics your looked like mine. I just made sure I followed WOG advice hairy PB (used lots of it) when installing my transom. I do like the belt sanding idea though, wish I would have thought of it.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I just bought a belt sander from HF. $24 with coupon. I will still have plenty of wood remaining because I also used 2 pieces of 3/4 so the transom is too thick anyway.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I would mainly do the sanding on the bottom half. the top half will pull in an conform with the clamps. PB will take care of the rest.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I just bought a belt sander from HF. $24 with coupon. I will still have plenty of wood remaining because I also used 2 pieces of 3/4 so the transom is too thick anyway.

Doing the samething I did with my transom thickness, are you. hehehe.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I shaped the transom. It was curved as much as I originally thought it was just curved in slightly at the corners the last 6 inches or so.
Here is what it looks like now. The port side I sanded off two layers and 1 layer on the starboard.


Now the only thing left before I can glass the transom is the two drain holes and cut out for the splash well like bill had to do.
For the drain holes should I drill them bigger fill the holes with PB and then drill the PB to the right hole size? Also the brass sleeve for the bilge drain is still in the hull should I notch the transom around it or just replace it?

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull



Electric this is what I did. Once you get your transom in place the cap back in then tape thick plastic (I used a cut black trash bag) between the cut and transom. Make sure you sand down to glass around the area where you are going to put glass. Now in the area of the cut the first layer I used was CSM, then I used one layer of 8oz cloth (wet on wet) let cure. Then I sanded smooth without going through the glass, then I used hair PB to level/smooth out and laid more cloth on top of the PB until I had the thickness I wanted on each side. You won't get many layers on the backside where it meets the transom. I also ran glass from the horizontal top part of the splashwell to the vertical part making an L for strength. If this part doesn't make sense just send me a PM.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

I shaped the transom. It was curved as much as I originally thought it was just curved in slightly at the corners the last 6 inches or so.
Here is what it looks like now. The port side I sanded off two layers and 1 layer on the starboard.


Now the only thing left before I can glass the transom is the two drain holes and cut out for the splash well like bill had to do.
For the drain holes should I drill them bigger fill the holes with PB and then drill the PB to the right hole size? Also the brass sleeve for the bilge drain is still in the hull should I notch the transom around it or just replace it?

I replaced mine. I glassed the whole thing in and then drilled a new whole.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

More detail on the splashwell

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Going to try to glue the transom in this weekend. I will do a dry run first and then start mixing up the PB. I will use a 1/4" notched trowel to spread the PB on the skin and the wood. I have pieces of a paint stirrer down on the hull bottom to give me the 1/4" gap which I will remove one everything is clamped. I will be using the 2x4 clamps inWOG's post. I know I don't want to clamp too tight and squeeze out all the PB but how tight should they be? Am I missing anything? Any other advice to make this go smooth will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Bump

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Clamp just snug, similar to most glue ups

Edit: of course be sure not too thick for cap to fit back on & that you've gotten good squeeze out to ensure a good bond just not too much squeeze out too much pb that its a weak bond

 

[eph445]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

A Tyvek suit is good too. Cover your self TOTALLY with LOTS and LOTS of BABY Powder before suiting up. It WILL help keep the itch down. I PROMISE you will thank me for it!!!

I'll vouch for that! You will get itchy. I don't have a tyvek suit yet and never bothered to try the talcum powder but I will definitely next time.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Transom is glued in and curing.

 

[bad coffee]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Looks good. Can't wait to see more.

 

[electric603]

Re: Transom replacement 1972 16' sportcraft C-Gull

Looks good. Can't wait to see more.

Thanks. It took 14 months to get to this point but I am hoping to step up production now and finish it before the end of the season. Hopefully!!!