Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at bow weld MORE PICS ADDED

[Sdad]

I have completely removed the decking of my 1989 tracker. I was getting quite a bit of water in my bilge. All the foam has been removed and I am starting my re-build. I tracked down the main culprit of the water. I dumped the boat in the lake with the decking out so I could see the leaks. I have a few rivets that are sweating....I am going to replace with new rivets and a dab of epoxy.

Now the main culprit......The main leak is coming from directly at the keel seam at the bow of the boat. The leak is directly underneath the front floor framing (don't know official term for the aluminum V framing) at the point where the keel starts to bend upward to the bow tip. It looks like it is coming from the original point of the weld at this seam.

So I think I have to remove the aluminum floor framing pieces to access the source of the leak. I will re-rivet the framing back on after I repair the seam.

Here is my question......should I take to welder, use brazing sticks, use JB Weld or just gluvit????

I want to stay cheap so if one of these options will get me years of use I am fine with that. I'm guessing the welder is the most expensive. also think I read something about a gasket or rubber seal that may be at this point of the keel....don't want to ruin that.

Thanks for help in advance. I am just happy I finally found the source of the main leak.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I like the Loc-tite marine epoxy for stuff like this, others will say that 3M 5200 or Gluvit will work... and they all will. But I'd lay down a good healthy bead of the Loc-tite after proper surface prep and recheck for leaks after the epoxy is fully cured.

there could very well be a gasket/seal in that area, my Tracker has these at all the seam joints so I'd avoid anything involving heat.

Some pics of the afflicted area would be nice so we can further analyze your situation.

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Here are a couple pics. The leak is coming from directly under the joint in the brace. I plan on removing the whole brace to get to it, by drilling out rivets. I will re-revit it back on after repair. I have used Loc-tite before, but was just wondering if that will do the job at a weld seam....thought it was more for just little pinhole leaks etc....If I loc-tite, can I also use gluv-it after....will glove it adhere to an epoxy such as loc-tite?

(The leaks are not coming from the rivets that you can see have already been replaced)

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Gluvit should stick to the Loc-tite since they're both epoxies, just roughen the top of the Loc-tite with some sand paper first and clean.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I would clean and go with gluvit......maybe multiple coats. The gluvit will "creep" into the cracks since it flows when wet. The 2nd coat will then fill in more and the 3rd will probably seal the leak forever.

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

With Gluv it...would I still have to remove the floor bracing? or would it seep under? I guess I'm asking do I have to apply directly?

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

OK,I have removed the floor joist and cleaned the area. I can now see the hairline crack at the weld. Here are a few pics of the area. Now that I can see it is definitely a crack.....What do you guys think? Gluv-it or Loc tite Epoxy? Sounds like from reading that Gluvit works its way into the crack, where it seems like lock tite would need to be pushed into the seam????? But will loc tite give more strength? there is definitely flex at the crack, I can push on it and it opens just abit. When applying either product shouldI apply andy pressure to the seam to open it and allow the product to work deeper in the seam?
Thanks you guys have been a ton of help.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I'm not a tin boat guy, so take it for what its worth, but if she were mine, I'd be looking for an weld shop that could re-weld that seam so I could be sure it would not continue to crack open. Seems to me that when the hull flexes the crack could open up and crack further, even with the epoxy. Again no experience, just my opinion. The Tin Boat experts may have different opinions.

 

[Teamster]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I think my first stop would be at a welding shop,......

Then I would fill it up on the inside with gluv it,..............

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I know that welding is best...and I suppose I can go get a quote. But really looking for some answers from guys that have maybe had same problem or seen the same....and have had success with the alternatives. Or experience with the alternatives working with this bad of a crack for at least a couple years.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I would reweld it, or have it rewelded. check with your local radiator shop, my guy charges about $40 per hour for welding aluminum.

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

OK I will try to find someone in my area...to get a quote from. Seems like I have heard from others though that that part of the boat is a bad part to re-weld....as there is a gasket or something that can get damaged and make for bigger problems????

Will a welder need access to both sides or can they do it from just the inside? Because the keel currently covers the other side....and that would be a lot to remove the whole keel!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

a bit of grinding and you will get full penetration from the inside.

 

[Sdad]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I called around and have to wait a while to get it in for a quote. What do you think I should expect to pay?

Also looking to hear from any other aluminum boaters that have a opinion on wether the other options of gluvit or epoxy would fill this crack and hold to at least get me a couple more years of fishing out of this boat.

 

[64osby]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Is this a riveted boat a welded boat or both?

I have an old Lone Star and when I showed a welder one section that needs work he wouldn't touch it. It was too close to the riveted panels. Too much heat will weaken the panels and cause future cracks in the aluminum and leaks at the rivets.

If it is a welded boat you shouldn't have a problem with welding it. Is the weld you show original or a patch?

If riveted, you could form a patch panel and get some 3M 5200, Liberal use of the 5200 and rivet the patch in place and your leak will be patched and solid for years and years.

If you get it welded, do your own prep work, grind down the existing weld, get everything nice and clean. I paid $30 for a 10" weld on an outboard, I paid $50 to have two pieces patched into my gunnel.

Good luck with the fix.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

Re: Weld or what?? Tracker leak at the keel seam....at the original bow weld point

I have a couple of aluminum boats, so I can say something. If the aluminum was stressed enough make long cracks, why would something like epoxy or 5200 be expected to hold up very long. Those same stresses will continue to weaken the aluminum and it will continue to fatigue and crack. A sturdy piece of aluminum riveted over the area with 5200 or another good sealer would work, but I would just take it in and have it welded, maybe with a little extra support gusseting welded in too.