1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Sdad

Seaman Apprentice
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Sep 19, 2011
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Just started to rip apart my tracker for a complete interior rebuild and possible paint. This boat was on the water this past year, but kept taking on water etc. I fixed a number of loose rivets, but still water everytime. So I made the decision to rip it apart this winter and rebuild it how I want it. I have gotten a lot of good advice from this forum and looking for some more help as I make my way through. As many of the people on the forum suggested, they thought I would find my floatation foam to be completely soaked. Well, it was soaked and saturated beyond what I would have ever thought. Tracker did some things whe they made these boats that just make no sense to me. All of the foam sandwiched between the floor and the hull was soaked, it was installed and just sitting in the water channels that run to the bilge?????? Stupid? Even the floor drain had foam installed directly below it, makes no sense. I have ripped out all the foam and plan to replace. Upon ripping apart the riveted jigsaw puzzle that is the back casting platform, I found more saturated foam and some construction that just seems cheap and stupid. Ahhh well the project should be fun and i look forward to setting it up how I want it and making it right.

My main questions right know are this:
1. The back casting platfom sides was built by just shooting foam into an aluminum case. there is no actual framing, just aluminum rails laid on top of the foam and then the aluminum case was rivited to the rails????? Do you think I should frame something out here or just repour the foam, once I remove the exsiting? Also where thes foam blocks are located, could I just frame this out and make dry storage on both sides? Or so you think this foam is crucial?

2. When replacing the floor foam, what should I use or how would I keep the foam from getting saturated as there is no real way I can think of to keep the foam raised above the floor to fkeep it away from any water?

3. Gluvit or what product should I use to ensure no water entry? I want to coat the hull with something to make this boat dry. I want a dry boat that is my number one goal.

More questions later, thanks for your help.....this is a much bigger project than I anticipated when i boaught this boat!!!! But again having fun doing it.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

1. Once you/if you fix your hull properly you won't have to worry about water coming into contact with you foam.

2. Todays closed cell foams (both pourable and sheet) won't absorb water so you don't need to worry about it if water does get on it.

3. Replace the foam that was in your boat, it's there for a reason... and that reason is to keep your boat from sinking to the bottom in case of an accident.

4. Frame your back deck better than it was, don't use wood framing, use aluminum. You can make a little storage back there but you need to put a lot of foam there too.

I suspect you may have a hairline crack in your hull that is the cause of the leak, after you get the boat completely gutted and cleaned fill it with water to find your leak(s). Don't depend on the Gluvit to stop all of your leaks, fix all of your leaks first and then use the Gluvit as a preventive measure.
 

Sdad

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Sep 19, 2011
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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

When I do the water test, How high on this boat should I fill the water?
 

Teamster

Lieutenant Commander
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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

I would fill it up and leave it sit and watch to see where it leaks,....It might take awhile,...Make sure you have a marker or something to circle the problem areas to make sure you know where they are,....
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

When I do the water test, How high on this boat should I fill the water?

Don't fill it above the waterline, and watch your trailer tires and springs so as not to overload them.

You probably won't have to put a lot of water in your boat to find the leaks.
 

greenbush future

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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

If you fill that boat up as suggested you will ruin it. The water line is more than enough to discover where your water is entering. That's about 6-10 inches deep on the inside, with less being better than more. I agree you may have a hairline crack if the water amount is large.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

I'd replace any below-deck foam with cut pink or blue sheet foam. It won't absorb water.
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

I'm not a Tin Boat guy but I have read and investigated almost every post on this forum concerning floatation foam, for the past two years, and I am in total agreement with EZ about using the Pink or Blue sheet foam sold in the Home stores. It will Never absorb water, and even though the pour in foam guys say theirs won't, In my opinion I'm not so sure. You can cut the sheet stuff to fit any shape. Cost will be about the same if not cheaper, so I's say use it. But that's just my opinion.
 

Starman8

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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

add food coloring to the water for easier detection
 

Sdad

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Sep 19, 2011
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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Ok, my plan is probably this so far.
1. I am going to clean the hull, check for leaks and repair any that I find.
2. Then I am going to Glovit the insid of the hull.
3. I may paint the boat (undecided, but any recommendations on paint would be great)
4. Then replace the floor foam with the pink or blue (closed cell) foam found at Home Depot or Lowes.
5. Replace the floor with new wood (recommendations please)
6. Re-carpet the whole boat, change storage compartments etc.

On the rear casting deck, where my pictures show the foam cubes that are on both sides of the boat. I asked this earlier and someone said replace the foam it's there for a reason. I would like the back sides to have storage. Can I just put some foam somewhere else in the boat to replace it or is the placement crucial.

By the way this seems like a lot of foam for this boat. Seems like so much more than other fishing boats I have seen or had.....like bench style boats with foam only under the benches. Seems a bit overkill, just trying to see if I can get away with a little less.
 

ezmobee

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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

1 quart-sized can of Gluvit should be enough for your boat. I'd go with Rustoleum with Valspar hardener added to it for your paint. Marine grade plywood would be ideal for your deck but it is quite expensive. Arauco ply from Lowes is a very nice quality alternative. I'd seriously recommend against carpet but that's certainly up to you. I love my vinyl deck and just used carpet for the side panels and casting decks. http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/IMG_0483.jpg
 

kofkorn

Seaman Apprentice
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Jul 1, 2011
Messages
40
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Sdad,

I recently purchased an 89 Tracker Pro 17 as well. I am contemplating removing the foam from the rear deck, as I suspect that it is waterlogged too. I've been looking at the layout and trying to figure out how much work will go into getting to the foam in the deck. My situation is slightly different, as the prior owner redecked all of the wood areas and re-carpeted the entire boat with high quality stuff earlier this year. Unfortunately he only went as far as removing the carpet from the rear deck and didn't disassemble it to replace the foam. He told me that he replaced the foam under the main floor. I would like to take apart as little as possible to get the rear casting deck open.

Here is the deck as it sits now:

IMG_0371.jpgIMG_0354.jpgIMG_0355.jpg

My questions are as follows:

1) Exactly what do you need to take apart to get to the two foam compartments? Based on your pictures, it appears that the floor deck has to come off. Could I sneak the front of the rear deck off without removing the floor, or are there rivets that need to be removed? Can you remove the rear deck with out taking the side panels (near controls and light holders) off?

2) Is it possible for you to post detailed pictures of each of the components you removed to get the boat to the state you are in? It would be extremely helpful for me to understand what I am looking at before I get into it. I'm guessing that there were about 4 pieces to the casting deck, the main cover on the front, the two side compartment covers, and the center bilge/livewell panels. Is that about right?

3) How much do you think that the foam that you removed weighed? 200lbs, 500lbs, ... :(

The foam in my boat doesn't go all the way to the top the way yours does. I pulled out the anchor light socket and took a picture. the foam on my boat just barely touches the bottom of the PVC chase pipe for the wiring. I'd say I've got about half as much foam in the side compartments. So I'd say that the foam is providing minimal structure for the casting deck. Mine feels really solid. I've got a picture at home that I can post later. Looking at the way those supports are attached, they are probably preventing the aluminum from flexing and spreading the load to the side rails and to the bilge area.

I'm hoping that you can provide me some insight as to what I am getting into before I start. Thanks in advance!!!
 

chriscraft254

Commander
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
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2,445
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

You can re-arrange whatever you like, the foam is there for positive floatation incase of a sinking. There are many boats out there with no foam. Tracker like others used the foam in some areas as a framing structure. Take out as much foam as you like, but just know that you are taking away floatation in the case of an emergency. Ideally, you will want more floatation towards the stern because that is where the water will collect first because of the weight of the motor.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

I'm not a Tin Boat guy but I have read and investigated almost every post on this forum concerning floatation foam, for the past two years, and I am in total agreement with EZ about using the Pink or Blue sheet foam sold in the Home stores. It will Never absorb water, and even though the pour in foam guys say theirs won't, In my opinion I'm not so sure.

i dont want to hijack and turn this into a foam debate.......regarding closed cell pour in......it will absorb water over time......this is a gaurentee, i dont care what the manufacturers say.

but the reason pour in is used, is because it becomes structural.....in a tinny, you dont need it.....the rigid foam sheets will be just fine
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
23,767
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Oops, the sheet foam pretty darn close to NEVER will absorb water. Tests have been done where it was even friggin buring underground for years. You can't do better in that department.
 

Sdad

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
30
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Kofkorn---

1) Unfortunately the back casting deck is all rivited and is literally assembled like a puzzle. One part supports the next and is locked into the next and under the other etc..etc..etc..Confusing. You have to be prepared to take off the whole thing to get to the two side foam compartments. Some of my main foam that I found was heavy and soaked was under the livewell and the rear compartment floor and also to the rear of the two cell foam blocks. It may be easier to cut some sort of access hole and rip out the foam in the side compartments if it is not completely full. But the back floor only comes out after removing other parts as it is tucked under the livewell.
You cannot remove the front of the rear deck without removing the main flooring. There are rivets underneath and through the side of the hull.
2) I will be posting some more pics, but more of further progress, I can look back and see what else i took that may help you.

3)I don't know how much it weighed, but i took all of the floor foam out and that has already filled a large garbage can with soaked foam.....so fill a garbage can with soaked foam and that weighs???


I will post progress later
 

kofkorn

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 1, 2011
Messages
40
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Kofkorn---

1) Unfortunately the back casting deck is all rivited and is literally assembled like a puzzle. One part supports the next and is locked into the next and under the other etc..etc..etc..Confusing. You have to be prepared to take off the whole thing to get to the two side foam compartments.

I kind of suspected so. But I was hopeful :(

2) I will be posting some more pics, but more of further progress, I can look back and see what else i took that may help you.

Even pictures of the separate pieces (assuming that you haven't already re-assembled) would be helpful. Thanks!

It's going to be a few weeks before I can get to it, as I have a few house projects to finish first. But I need the garage bay back before the real cold weather kicks in. I hate scraping windows....

Thanks for the info!!
 

bbodin

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 19, 2011
Messages
114
Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

Please rotate your pics when posting them. That drives me nuts trying to look at them.
Thx.
 

sschefer

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Nov 13, 2008
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Re: 1989 Basstracker Pro 17 Rebuild- Ripped it apart- Wow Tracker Really!!

I just read this thread for the first time and I have a suggestion about finding leaks. Put it on the trailer with the plug in and a few sand bags to simulate normal weight then take it to the lake and launch it. I can almost guarantee you're more likely to find leaks than you'll find by filling it with water.

Here's a way test the theory.. Go to the lake and put the boat in and pull the plug. Record the amount of time it takes to fill the boat to a predetermined level, (put a mark on the boat). Now put the plug back in, put the boat on the trailer and haul it out far enough so the plug is out of the water. Pull the plug and time how long it takes to drain. It normally takes quite a bit longer.

It's all about displacement..

It's just a suggestion, I'm not trying to say you must do it.

Just thought of something I discovered during a restore.. Often what I thought was really dumb for the manufacturer to do turned out to be the best solution. Take pictures, you may find out the same.
 
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