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Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

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  • Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

    OK, I've lurked here long enough. It's time to tell my story over a few instalments to this thread. Much has been completed, but much more is to come. I have a 1972 21' Starcraft Holiday aluminum boat powered by a 120 HP Mercruiser I/O. I purchased it about 10 years ago, but it's been in the family since new. It was kinda tired when I got it, but had been properly maintained. The only shabby part was the sun damaged vinyl on the top decks and the yellowed plexiglass side and centre windshield panels. Sorry, no before pictures. My first task, replacing the plexi was easy and made a world of difference to the boat's appearance.

    On the first trip out, it was evident that the sleeper style seats were too low. They had been replaced several years before and were in excellent condition, but no-one could see the horizon in front without straining up from a seated position. Using the original seat box as a pattern, I made new plywood boxes several inches higher and covered them with Formica wood grain laminate. With the tops of the seat backs now just at gunwale height, not only could we see a lot better, but the seats were more comfortable for our legs. There's more under seat storage space now too.



    Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:36 PM.
    Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
    1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
    https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

    Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

  • #2
    Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

    Next, I replaced the stern deck aluminum sheet, replacing cowl vents, gas filler and mooring cleats with stainless steel fittings and relocating everything to better locations. I used Tremclad (Rustoleum) spray bombs in "Recreation White" that identically matches the original Starcraft "Bermuda Cream". When I lifted the old deck, I found water had penetrated the top of the transom and rot had set in. Not wanting to pull the engine to replace the transom, I tried a stop-gap fix. I replaced only the top 12" of plywood, tying the new ply to solid old ply with 1/4"x2"x4" aluminum C channel. I know, "Mickey Mouse", but I got several years use out of it.

    Eventually, I did have to replace the transom when I discovered it was spongy below the engine. So the deck came off again and the engine split from the outdrive. I used a double layer of marine grade plywood, glued and stainless steel screwed dead flat together. For waterproofing, I covered all sides and edges of the transom with Formica laminate and sealed the aluminum deck sheet at all points. I used 1/2" thick white plastic sign board material to replace the original plywood collar/spacer on the inside of the transom. Since I already had the aluminum C channel, I re-installed it on the new transom. It's one strong transom now. I learned that the engine and outdrive disassembly and reassembly is not that difficult with the help of the OEM manual.

    Having removed the original painted steel gas tank from the port side of the engine to allow better access to the engine, I discovered that the tank bottom was corroded and questionable for future safety, so I ordered a new plastic tank. The floor beneath the old tank was soft enough that I was able to tear it out from under the sidewall without removing rivets and screws in that area. The mice have been enjoying the warm hospitality of underfloor styrofoam.









    Last edited by Grandad; December 13th, 2013, 06:25 AM. Reason: Changed Bavarian Cream to Bermuda Cream. I must have been coffe time.
    Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
    1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
    https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

    Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

      Next was the wormy deck vinyl. After pondering options, I chose a wood look composite material from HD. The material is designed for use in outdoor patio decks. Deck board planks of the material were too thick and too heavy (and too expensive), but I found the same material in a U-shape trim piece designed to cap the ends of the planks. These U-shapes were about 1-3/4" wide and 6' long, but the material thickness was only about 1/4". I bought a piece and stain tested it with oil and also scratched at the surface across the grain. No stains. I found that any surface scratches can be removed by wire brushing with the grain.

      Cutting off the "legs" of the U with my table saw left a flat strip 1/4" thick x 1-3/4" wide by 6' long. Gluing multiple strips to the deck with PL Premium created a teak look that years later looks as good as new. There's no evidence of the glue releasing and no creep from expansion & contraction despite the extreme temperature changes in our area.







      Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:38 PM.
      Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
      1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
      https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

      Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
      https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

        Nice work, Grandad. Your "patio deck" looks great and original. Good re-purpose for the composite.
        BOAT SPECS FORUM HELP STARCRAFT FORUM SHOP iboats
        Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
        That is what the forums are for.
        Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

          Originally posted by GA_Boater View Post
          Nice work, Grandad. Your "patio deck" looks great and original. Good re-purpose for the composite.
          Ayuh,.... Sweet lookin' ole Holiday,...

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

            Looks great. I really wouldn't have though that anything would stick to composite, nice to hear PL does.
            2002 20' Hydra-Sports 202DC 200HP Yamaha HPDI
            1976 18' Starcraft SuperSport 90HP Evinrude
            Restoration thread https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=357767

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

              Looks great! That's one nice lookin Holiday.
              1969 Lonestar Medallion restoration

              1972 Glastron GT-160 restoration

              1973 Silverline Grand Bahama restoration

              1991 Galaxie 19' 4.3 Mercruiser
              2007 F150 4x4 Supercrew
              A boat is just a big hull in the water you throw money into.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                Next project. I had noticed that the bilge pump was auto cycling more often than usual. On the trailer, I inspected for damage and found hairline fatigue cracks extending an inch or so from the outermost rivets in 4 port side midship ribs. Two of the cracks had actually joined under one of the ribs for a total length of about 5". That rib is at the forward end of the trailer bunk.

                At first I beat myself up for not adjusting the bunk properly, but on careful inspection, the bunk was not set too high and the hull was not concave at that point. Hmmm. Something has bugged me for awhile. The aluminum base for the plywood side wall has been angled out at the bottom in this same area, the screws securing it to the floor having stripped out of the plywood. I suspect that the sidewall, when correctly positioned vertically adds significant reinforcement to the hull, but with the base tipped, the unsupported hull flexes more than normal in this area, hence the cracks.

                I figured that the only fix would be to put a patch over the cracks and reinforce the hull in this area. You guys know the drill. Out with the seats, the center console, the walls, the floor and the styrofoam mouse hotel. When I took the walls out, I noticed that the original rivets securing the aluminum base to the plywood wall on the port side were a little short and most were broken or had wormed their way into the plywood. Maybe this initiated the flexing of the hull that caused the cracks. I dunno, but if you see yours doing the same, check it out ASAP.







                Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:38 PM.
                Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                  Next, the waterless hand cleaner and scrub pads to get rid of the bilge goo. I removed 8 rivets from each of the ends of 7 ribs and would need to lift the ends sufficiently clear of the hull for a 4" x 72" aluminum patch and a layer of 3M 5200. I bent up some 1/4" x 1" hot rolled steel into seven 90 degree "levers" that I inserted under the end of each of the ribs, fulcrumed them on the hard chine and clamped them to the side pocket frame to hold the ribs up off the hull. With the ribs lifted, I was able to slide the 6' patch under all of them to position the patch for drilling rivet through-holes. I also drilled holes at the ends of each crack to stop them from advancing.







                  Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:39 PM.
                  Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                  1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                  https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                  Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                  https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                    Next, before applying 3M 5200, I had to build a complex of spacers to keep the patch out of the 5200 as I put it into place. Tedious, but it worked great. With my son's help, we got all new solid aluminum rivets bucked. Got the rivets from Aircraft Spruce. Used the tougher structural ones, not the soft type. One picture shows 5200 oozing through the cracks with the rib temporarily bolted to the hull skin.

                    To strengthen the hull at the ends of the ribs, particularly in the patched area, I had 2 pieces of #14 gauge 5052 aluminum fabricated into L-shapes 1 3/4" x 14" x 96" long. I installed one on each side of the hull to fit under the floor and behind the walls on top of the ends of the ribs below the side pockets. After filling the voids below the side pockets with styrofoam flotation, I pop-riveted the L to all the rib ends and to the side pocket frame. One picture shows the port side L panel not yet slid forward into place over the flotation.







                    Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:39 PM.
                    Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                    1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                    https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                    Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                      Beautiful work man. She looks great.

                      I'll try that composite decking myself for trimming.
                      https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=319609

                      http://s674.photobucket.com/albums/v...y%2018%20redo/

                      sigpic

                      1977 Starcraft Holiday 18 I/O

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                        Some people are just GOOD at fixin stuff... and you Sir, are one of those people. Excellent Workmanship and Design!!!!

                        1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
                        Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
                        Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                          When I removed the floor, I discovered that the pop rivets securing the port stringer to the ribs were all broken, except where I had already replaced them where I had access in the engine bay. The stringer was simply trapped between the floor to which it was still riveted and the hull, free to bend sideways as the hull flexed. No support for the hull at all. Little wonder it cracked.

                          After washing the seams and joints with acetone as recommended by Woodonglass, I painted them with Gluvit. One quart was enough to seal the hull seams at the transom, the hard chines and the stem and with the leftovers to paint the undersides of the plywood floor panels on either side of the engine.

                          Before replacing the floor and walls, I filled every void I could with flotation. I used only closed cell rigid foam board below the floor to avoid problems with water absorption. I used a combination of foam board types in the walls, based on price and available thickness. I managed to find space to install 35 cubic feet of foam, displacing an equivalent volume of water weighing 2100 lbs. Since the boat, including batteries and some gear, weighs about 1700 lbs, I figure in the event of a capsize, the boat should float at the surface. Since fuel is lighter than water, I haven't included its weight. The minimal flotation provided by any wood structures is also not considered.









                          Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:40 PM.
                          Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                          1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                          https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                          Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                          https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                            To avoid a styrofoam snowstorm that I'd get using power saws to cut and shape the flotation, I investigated using a hotwire foam cutter. I experimented a bit and found that I already had everything I needed to make a decent foam cutter. For a power supply, I used an old model train transformer that powered my train as a kid in the 1950's. It has a 50 Watt 15 Volt AC output that perfectly matched the .020" stainless steel safety wire. I even had a suitable 1 1/2" thick piece of plywood left over from a basketball backboard project (that never got completed) to cut for a harp.

                            I mounted a small turnbuckle and spring on the top of the harp to adjust the tension on the hot wire. I secured an aluminum U channel to the bottom arm of the harp and installed #10-24 rivnuts and bolts every 15 degrees to adjust the bottom of the hot wire to cut the foam at many different angles. I wired the transformer output between the turnbuckle and the U-channel. Clamping the harp in my B&D Workmate provided a versatile workstation. I C-clamped 2x4's to the harp as fence guides for cuts. I spent more time than necessary to build the cutter, but it sure saved me time and a big mess later. If you're considering building one, perhaps an old wooden window frame minus glass would work just as well.





                            Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:35 PM.
                            Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                            1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                            https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                            Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                            https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                            Comment


                            • #15
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                              Re: Starcraft Holiday Reno and Hull Repair

                              Other than the piece under the gas tank that I'd already replaced, the 1/2" plywood floor was in such good shape that there was no need for replacement. Note in the pictures that the old plywood still has the rough splinter edges from the original Starcraft machining. Although many restorers have opted for 3/4" when replacing the floor for additional stiffness, I couldn't justify replacing what is still perfect. Yes, it flexes, but its a boat, not a dance floor. Adding another 1/4" would also reduce the space for the original walls which are still in good shape. I had already lost about 1/8" for the thickness of the L-shape chine stiffener and hull patch. I don't know what preservative was used in 1972, but its still working fine.





                              Last edited by Grandad; February 18th, 2012, 02:42 PM.
                              Winner 2013 Starcraft Splash Of The Year Award
                              1972 21' Starcraft Holiday I/O Custom Rebuild
                              https://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=517895

                              Link to thread Calling All Ontario Members
                              https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...ntario-members

                              Comment

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