Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Rellik546

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Feb 5, 2011
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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

peteco...great analogy!!!!!! i would rather kill the fly with a nuke(assuming no damage to anything else) i like big bangs...i also grew up in a small town :)

regardless....i read the fiberglass informative on the forum today, and i think i will use poly resin now instead of epoxy, because i was planning on properly cleaning and scouring the surface so that either will be sufficient. and poly is almost close to 1/3 the price. part of me still wants to use epoxy, so that i can seal alll the wood with epoxy first, then place the wood and wrap in glass after.. this will make sure the wood has a water proof layer, then after laying glass it will have two water proof layers before water has a chance to hit internal wood
 

Peteco

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Aug 12, 2009
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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

peteco...great analogy!!!!!! i would rather kill the fly with a nuke(assuming no damage to anything else) i like big bangs...i also grew up in a small town :)

regardless....i read the fiberglass informative on the forum today, and i think i will use poly resin now instead of epoxy, because i was planning on properly cleaning and scouring the surface so that either will be sufficient. and poly is almost close to 1/3 the price. part of me still wants to use epoxy, so that i can seal alll the wood with epoxy first, then place the wood and wrap in glass after.. this will make sure the wood has a water proof layer, then after laying glass it will have two water proof layers before water has a chance to hit internal wood

Same here. As much as I wanted to find a way to justify the use of epoxy (since I have lots of experience with it), I ordered chopped strand mat and 5 gallons of poly resin for my floors and stringers last week.

I'd considered using foam if I had to replace the stringers, due to the ease of working with it, but it's not really practical. Besides, I'd have to do the stress calcs on the stringer and figure out the stiffness compared to what was originally there, and I'm too lazy for that. The original stiff (cheap ply, csm, poly) lasted 22 years, I'm pretty sure my resto will last at least that long.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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5,581
Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Im gonna make a thread about this wood issue. Hopefully we can discuss the issue in there then keep debating on others resto threads. :)

YD.
 

ondarvr

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Apr 6, 2005
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11,527
Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

People worry about water getting through a polyester laminate, but that isn't the source of rot, it has to do with sloppy workmanship or poor design. Water finds it way through a gap in the glass or an unsealed screw hole, it makes do difference whether you use epoxy or polyester, the wood will rot when this happens.
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

YD good idea... i actually had a dream about a "HOW TO" section in the forum haha. i think it would be a great idea... i know there are how to parts in each resto thread. but if we took the best ones. then actually had a how to section where u could easily look up transom replacement. then have how to seacast transom, how to nida core transom, how to replace transom with ply. The information exists, it would just be nice if there was an easier format to find it in. even an advance search would be helpful. you guys are alot of help. i dont want to keep asking the same questions u have answered time and time again. but at the same time i dont want to read a million pages to find all the information i need. (Girlfriends already pissed i spend alot of time on here)

ondarvr thank you for ur feedback, you have just saved me several hundred dollars :)

I believe i owe you a drink


peteco good luck on ur rebuild, if u have a resto thread id like to take a look and see your progress... its always nice to know that im not the only one out here scratching my head saying "now what" lol
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

i can get 3/4 mdo for 56.38 and marine grade for 76. 1/2 mdo for 44.38 and marine grade for 65.

i like the idea of not using as much resin...

i have a question though. i want to do my entire layup with poly resin. but i was wondering if i should get a gallon of epoxy, to seal the edges. my question is, when i lay my stringer after the edges are sealed with epoxy, can i use a poly Peanutbutter to seat the stringer or will it not bond? i can get 3m 5200 for $11 bux for a 1/10 tube. which is an excellent deal. so if the poly will not adhere to the bottom edge of the stringer that was sealed with epoxy, will the 3m 5200 bond to it? i do not care to much about the top edge, as it will be wrapped and if that 3/4 of an inch doesnt bond its no big deal as it will have 6 inchs on each side of the stringer, and the few inches on the hull.
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

I'm not that keen on the idea of mdo and hdo.... The manufacture says on their website that the panels are designed to withstand intrusion of chemicals.....how well will resin stick to it? Just a thought...
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

woodonglass used it in his boat build up. the actual outside layer is a resin based material. he says it works great. its used in concrete construction for pours/molds. apparently its wicked good stuff. search for the marine grade plywood debate forum. find woodonglass post about it, and click the link to read it. or u can google search it. its used in boat building already...
 

jonesg

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Feb 22, 2008
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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

i can get 3/4 mdo for 56.38 and marine grade for 76. 1/2 mdo for 44.38 and marine grade for 65.

i like the idea of not using as much resin...

i have a question though. i want to do my entire layup with poly resin. but i was wondering if i should get a gallon of epoxy, to seal the edges. my question is, when i lay my stringer after the edges are sealed with epoxy, can i use a poly Peanutbutter to seat the stringer or will it not bond? i can get 3m 5200 for $11 bux for a 1/10 tube. which is an excellent deal. so if the poly will not adhere to the bottom edge of the stringer that was sealed with epoxy, will the 3m 5200 bond to it? i do not care to much about the top edge, as it will be wrapped and if that 3/4 of an inch doesnt bond its no big deal as it will have 6 inchs on each side of the stringer, and the few inches on the hull.

Stay with unwaxed poly resin to keep life simpler, no need to mix and match resins between epoxy and poly.
End grain of ply will suck poly up like a sponge, couple of coats should do a far better job than original.
I started out making up my own putty from poly resin, cabosil and chopped fiber but find PL Premium 5000 construction adhesive is cheap, quick and ideal for bedding wood to glass. Get your supplies in soon. Still cold in Boston but the deep freeze will soon be over.
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

the benefit of still being in winter and not down south, is that i can get the all the grinding done in my tyvek suit at 35 degrees. which is the perfect temp. not to cold once u get going. and not to hot. couldnt imagine doing it in the summer though.

I i axed the putty idea. PL it is.
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

This is my current schedule to tab my 3/4" mdo stringers

i want to round the edge to make it easier for the glass. but im affraid ill lose to much surface area to attach my deck.... thoughts?

Either way here is the plan

1 tab with csm

2 then 10" 24oz 1708 tape the length of the stringer(6" stringer, so 6" up stringer, and 4" on hull) or should i use CSM tape? (i hear its difficult to adhere mat( step 3) to the stitched side of 1708)

3 then wrap stringer with 1.5oz CSM overlapping tape by 3" both sides

4 final layer of 24oz 1708 wrap with another 3" overlap (adhering the mat side to the previous layer)
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

got my tyvek suit today, with built in footies and hoody. haha look like a giant white tellytubby
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Well, we definetly need a pic of that!!!!! Just use a 1/4 inch round over bit in a trim router or a file to round over the corner. Trust me you will NOT regret it. I forget are you using Poly or Epoxy on your transom and stringers???
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Poly. It will last way longer than the few years I plan to use the boat. Plus ill do proper prep to get a good mechanical bond. I've been reading so many threads on stringers to try to hybrid together the best techniques and lay up schedule
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Ok, since you're using MDO make sure to sand with 60 grit and wipe with Acetone to get the poly to bond.
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Yeah of coarse. People keep warning me against mdo. But in all seriousness. After looking at it. It can't be any worse that cdx. I know it looks better by looking at the ply layers. But hey. Everyone has an opinion. And it's only 17 feet with a 4 banger. Who cares. It will get the job done :). And less resin. Money saver :)
 

Cadwelder

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Yeah of coarse. People keep warning me against mdo. But in all seriousness. After looking at it. It can't be any worse that cdx. I know it looks better by looking at the ply layers. But hey. Everyone has an opinion. And it's only 17 feet with a 4 banger. Who cares. It will get the job done :). And less resin. Money saver :)

Add keep in mind CDX is the bottom of the line in plywood grades the MDO is WAY better than CDX.
 

Rellik546

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

so i cant get a engine hoist around me that is tall enough to pull the motor out of the boat. i dont want to halt on progress. the engine/bilge are stringers are seperate from the 2 that run to the front of the boat after the bilge. so im thinking of replacing those first including the bulkhead at the front of the engine compartment, where the engine stringers butt up to. my thought is if i replace those, that buys me more time to get the motor out and still make progress. then i can replace the engine stringers/and motor mounts and the transom.


in the picture u can see the bulkhead infront of the motor. and how the stringers that run along the side of the motor are offset from those that attach to the bulkhead and run to the bow.

The scotch tape is resting on the side of the motor stringer, and the level is running with the "bow stringers"

would it be okay to repair it like that? i know the motor needs to come out so i can do the side stringers/transom and motor mount. but i dont see why i couldnt do the front first, then tie in the engine stringers later after proper prep. and by later i mean before using the boat this summer, not next year. so it will all get done this spring.
 

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fat fanny

Lieutenant Commander
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Feb 9, 2006
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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

Just a thought but if your planning on renting a engine hoist compare the cost to the rental to a tow truck lifting it out and onto a prepared pallet with casters and possibly a combo rate for reinstall later paid up front! this way you can continue without the extra planning, Or use a nearby tree or ceiling joists with a comealong!If you plan on the truck just make sure your ready to pull when they get there theymost likely charge by the hr, if not a falt rate.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Method and associated cost for stringer and deck repair

I see No problem with your plan
 
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