1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

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j_k_bisson

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Well I started this project with the bayliner forum but was not getting any support. So I though I would bring it over to this site seeing that thereis quite alot of projects like mine going on.

To start I am going to copy from the other site my posts so you can get up to speed of where I'm at and what my questions are. I'm new to this site so please bear with me.

Jeff

#1
I recently purchased a 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002. It came with a Force 120hp and a 9.9hp kicker. I was very excited as the out side was in very good shape.

The only problem I found on it was the cabin floor was soft. I cut out the rotten floor and surveyed the surounding wood structures and they where in perfect shape. So I glassed in a new floor piece. My conclusion for this rot was that the table leg opening in the floor was not sealed when Bayliner cut the hole. And as the years went, with the floor get wet with every use the wood rotted.

As I used the boat for the rest of this summer I noticed the plastic capping around the motor splash well was cracked. So one weekend I took motor off and the capping intending to fix. What I found was very disapointing. The transom was rotten. It appears the reason for this was the crack and the lack of sealent in the splash well drains. They are only snaped together on my boat with no sealent. ***check yours and seal if needed before probems arise***

I started investigating online here and other forums to see how to change/fix a transom. Did not find a whole lot of info. So I decided to post my project here to help future do-it-yourselfers. If anyone has any coments on anything I am doing that could help, please feel free to send coments along. It will be appreciated.

Thanks Jeff

I will post as many photos as possible when I figure out how to.
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 9-23-2010

Update 9-23-2010

Here is the pics of the boat before I started the project.

DSCN0397-1-1.jpgDSCN0398-1-1.jpg

Here is a pic of the cap removed from the transom splash well. You can clearly see that the cap and hull have separated and the wood has swelled.

DSCN0494-1-.jpg

I have disassembled most of the interior to get acess to under the floor. I took pictures every where to see is anything was glued or screwed together. Nothing but at the transom. There was a globb of epoxy the glued together the cap and hull at the splash well.

Last night I took a sawall with a 12inch wood blade and cut along the transom crack at the splash well and split the two halfs. Later we lifted off the cap from the hull. I will post pics tomorrow. They are a bit frightening from a safety standpoint. Wife kept the kids in the back yard during all this.

Thanks Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 9-23-2010

Update 9-23-2010

Here are the pics of the top coming off. This was done two nights ago. I would not recomend this procedure as it is very unsafe. But I had not other choice. My budy with the backhoe did not show up until 2 hours after we where done.

DSCN0527-1-1.jpg

DSCN0530-1-1.jpg


Last night I rearanged the garage to fit the bottom in due to rain coming today. I also started peeling the old fiberglass from the transom. Check out the rot on a 20 year old boat. Found a couple of area on the cap that need attention as well. The cockpit drains where not sealed properly along with the tackel box opening. Both have a bit of rot that needs fixing.

This weekend I plan on cleaning up all the area and prep sanding for the new transom/fiberglass.

Plan on being super picky even with a full tyvek suit, rubber gloves, mask, and googles. Wish me luck.
 

j_k_bisson

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update 9-25-2010

update 9-25-2010

Worked quite late last night removing rot. Ended up having to cut the stringers behind the rear flotation pocket along with the two transom supports. got all that cleaned up around midnight. Then proceeded to unload the new/used 1988 evinrude 225hp. The motor is in very poor cosmetic shap but the the compression in the head is 85-90 psi anf the is less than 5 degrees backlash in the gear case. Poped the heads of and checked for scoring. There was none thank god. SO after I get done the hull I have a motor to fix up. This thing should rock'n'roll quite alot. I'm figuring +50mph on glass for sure. I have a buddy (Coop) that has a 1993 trophgy bow rider with a 200 black max and that does 45-50mps. SO this should be comparable.

In about an hour I will suit up for mor demo seeing I found the flotation chanber that I referenced was rotten as well. So out i goes. Along with 3 more feet of stringers. They where soft at the bottoms where the attaqched to the hull. Then a bit of sanding to clean up for new glass.

Monday get the next bit of supplies for replacing the wood. I'll post some more pics tomorrow or Monday of my progress. All I want to do is get this demo done and get over the pickyness.

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 9-28-2010

Update 9-28-2010

Well only worked from 8pm to 11pm. Neighbours get rightfully upset if alot of noise is made after 11pm. There is also a noise bylaw in my subdivision. Anyway after cutting and grinding/sanding I got all the old rotten wood removed. Here is a pic of before grinding/sanding.

DSCN0550-1-1.jpg

DSCN0551-1-1.jpg

DSCN0554-1-1.jpg

You will notice I took out the rear flotation chamber. It was rotten and had to go. I started on sanding the fiberglass edge standing up where the old stringers/wood was laminated to the outer hull. What a job. After sanding for 1.5hrs I am only half done. Thank god for the tyvek suit. Hand to stop because I completely plugged my shop vac filter. The power was an inch thick. There goes 20 bucks in 5 minutes. Need to pic up two more tomorrow at Canadiantire.

Well tomorrow is Sunday and a day of rest. Not that I am overly religous, just its a day we spend as a family. So no progress until after work Monday. Just a bit of shopping before then.

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 9-28-2010

Update 9-28-2010

Well to say that I hate fiberglass is an understatement. But truely its the pickness that I hate. After 2.5hrs of additional sanding/grinding I am sort of done. Maybe a bit more when I come to glass in the new stringers to match thicknesses. No pics today as I did not want to stay anywhere near the garage after I finished vaccuming and blowing the dustout. Thank god for the rain storm all night that did remove all of the dust outside. The neighbours would be pissed if they started getting ichy.

Tonight I start laying out the new wood. Measue twice and cut once.

I have a couple of questions that maybe someone can help me with.

1) What do you use to remove cured silicone/adhesive from gel coat. Around the splash well? There is the silicone that I have not scraped off due to not wanting to damage the gel coat. My father says to use vinigar. But I believe that only works with wet silicone.

2) I intended to put Benett trim tabs on the boat and due to the water pick up for the live well is right in the way I have to relocate. (No at problem) My question is should I reinforce the glass in the tab area with wood as there is no wood there now. Just the batery boxes. See above pic. Or will the battery box wood be enough to reinforce this area seeing that it is perpendicular to the wall.

Any information on these two questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

Well not much getting completed in the last couple of days. Cut out my new transom. Using 2 pieces of 3/4 inch plywood with an additional 1/2 inch thick. This will all be laminated together. Need to router out the depresions for the trailer tie down u-bolts. Then then I have started laying out the new stringers.

Here is the plan. Please fell free to pock asmany hole in it so that any errors can be corected before I start glassing.

This is an over view of how I am going to join into my existing stringers. I only cut out the rear 4-5ft of the existing stringers. There was no rot. As you can see I plane on sandwiching a piece of 3/4 inch and a peice of 1/2 inch to both sides of the stringer at the joint. I had to drop down to 1/2 inch due to gass tank clearence.

This is a section through the stringer after all splices are completed. Please review and make any comments.

This is a top view of how I was thinking of reinforcing the transom more than the factory original. Look at the arrows pointing to the new structure. Let me know what you think. I am thinking of adding a gussett dead center, any thoughts?

Here is the section through the hull and cap on. I plan on glueing the cap back on like the factory did. I have listed the clearences that I think they where. If they need to be increased please let me know. Also I am bring up the gussetts on the strings and reinforcements to just under the splash well. The facture did not do this. Thus having the trasom ply take all the load from the motor. Any thoughts.

Like I said I will be cutting the ply for this structure over the weekend. If anyone has any thoughts please feel free to express them. As I would rather fix now than after this is all glassed in. Especially about my string try-in.

I will post pic of everthing dry fitted after cutting.

hull-sect.jpg

overall-tri.jpg

Strig-sect.jpg

top-layout.jpg

Sorry about spelling, I'm an engineer not a journalist.
Thanks Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

I plan on taking as much pics as possible to help out any furture Trophy owners. I have a ton more on the thing together. Will help putting things back together.

As to materials, I am using the System Three Epoxy from Mertons. Anyone have any issues with this stuff? Also how many layers of 1708 Biax over the stringers. I hand planned 1 layer of 8 oz 6" wide woven along both sides of stringers after filliting them, then two layers of 1708. Then laminating the splice stiffeners (1/2" and 3/4" Plywood) using PB Epoxy. Then fillet corners @ hull, one layer of 8ox 6 in wide woven roving, then two layers of 1708 biax.

Also What is the expansion rate on an aluminum gas tank. I am trying to think of the minimum clearence required between the tank and the sringers. Right now there is 1/2-3/4" both sides. I was going to drop this down to 1/4". Any thoughts?

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-3-2010

Update 10-3-2010

I am noticing that all my plastic hull fittings are very brittle. I have broken (snapped) two nut rings on the scuppers when removing them for inspection. I am only goiong to replace what is broken right now, but in the near future I will replace all plastic fittings that is at water line and bellow. In the next year I want to replace all the above deck fitting (Hatches). There is two hatches that despartely need to be replaced. The splash well one and the anchore hatch. The on on the anchor is to small for the proper anchor for the boat. I gues i'll be shoppinbg allot at Greatlakles outfitters on Ebay.

Also you may want to check on the bottom sides of the gussetts in the bilage. Mine where not even resin sealed. Alot of rot the. The other spot that I need to fix is the bottom of the anhor well. The drain tube is ony stuff into the hole in the plywood for the drain connection. I plan on taking piucs of this when I get to that area.

Well here is the update from last night and tonight.

Starte cutting all mu pywood. Rough fitted everything together with some wood screws. Heres some pics.


DSCN0556-1-1.jpg

DSCN0560-1-1.jpg

DSCN0562-1-1.jpg


You can even see my new factory style battery box.

If any one has any Ideas for improvement please post.

Also I read on another form that the bedding for stringer is 1/4 inch. I was going for 1/8 - 0. But can get to 1/4 inch.

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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update 9-24-2010

update 9-24-2010

Well did not do much on it last night, basically to the night off. Only dry ited the tank back in. I now have 1/4inch per side clearence to the tank. Anyone have any coments on this being to tight? It is an aluminum tank so expansion should not be that much. But I do not know, no experience in the department.

Also next question, my motor bolts for the new Evinrude 225hp are at a different spacing. old 9.25" new 13". I allowed enough room with the gusset locations and all that. But I would like to plug the old hole in the out side skin. I was thinking when I "Laminate" my new transom piece in I could fill the old holes with the peanut butter epoxy and the grind out a bit and re gel coat. I had planned on fixing all my gel coat scatches after the transom was in. My question is will spectrum gel coat stick to system three epoxy? And how long do I have to wait to start this (week to 30 days?)

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-5-2010

Update 10-5-2010

Well here what happened last night. Not much in progress but at a point to start glass'n.

Did the final grinding making sure that all areas that will be glassed was sanded with 40 grit (used a flap disc on grinder). I plan on extending the glass mat out from the stringers/new wood about 6" and up the froward and rear bulk heads the same. Then I washed down all the areas to be glasses with Acetone. Than was a very Uplifting experience (got really buzzed), seeing that I did not where a mask. Won't do that again. Need all my brain cells to keep up with my 4 kids. Check the pics out of the washed hull. The fan is blowing out the fumes after I was done.

I also spotted the transom plywood into the fiberglass transom. That way I can reduce the amount of epoxy needed to laminate/glue them together. Still need to recess the nut/bolt locations for the transom tie down U-bolts locations like factory. That should be tonight along with cleaning the garage. Starting to get very messy seeing there is not alot of room. See the pic's of the garage. I know the neighbours love it right now.

Here are a couple of pic's of the new/use motor. Its a used 1986 225 Evinrude looper. It needs to be gone throught electricall, mechnically, and cosmectically. But there is less than 5 degrees backlash in the lower unit and the block is not scored and is bored over 0.030". Everything else is just a project. As you can tell I love projects. You may also notice the Force in the back ground. That was on the boat before the transom rebuild. It ran great but needs to be bored/honed due to a rin failure. It will be the first motor this winter that gets rebuilt, then the Evinrude. I figure that 200 bucks and the Force is done. The Evinrude about 500 without any major electrical components. My neighbour has ask to purchase when I get the Evinrude install for 1200 bucks. So any cost for the Evinrude will be covered.

DSCN0565-1-3.jpg

DSCN0566-1-2.jpg

DSCN0567-1-2.jpg

DSCN0570-1-2.jpg

DSCN0573-1-2.jpg

Tonight try to inlist some help from friends for glassing this thing. One for mixing epoxy, and one to help with laminating. Then get the other things done.

The list Boat list for tonight.
1)Get help from friends
2)Recess U-bolt locations
3)Laminate transom together
4)Coat and glass transom
5)Coat transom in hull
6)Glue transom together

May not start Glass'n till tomorrow, we'll see,

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-6-2010

Update 10-6-2010

Didn't work on the boat at all last night. Tried to inlist help and sugestions from my buddies. Got one buddy to help with the glass'n but we are going to put off the glass for a week until I can order more resin. Right now I have 3 gallons and I fear it will not be enough to finish the job. SO instead of rushing into it and having to sand due to lack of resin, we are going to wait and do it all one shot. Possibly next weekend.

So till then I have to do the following.

1) Finish cut the transom -cut bottom to allow drain plug routing, -router depression for tie down u-bolts.
2) Finish cut the stringers -add 1/8-1/4 clearence on bottom for bedding them to hull. (Right now they are press fit) - add clearence for glass lamination all arounf perimeter.
3) Finish cut the for/aft spacers - floatation chamber spacer are tight fit. Need to ad clearence for glass thickness when wrapping the wood.
4) Finish cut the cross boat floatation chamber boards -once again add clearance, -and add drain tube cut out for under the chamber like factory set up.
5) Cut all glass mat to size for all areas where it is going to laminated/bonded. Need to minimize layup time to ensure one pour in the 72 hrs window for chemical bond.
6) A bit more sanding on the existing stringers. Want to expose more wood for better bonding condition.
7) Rewash hull with acetone.

I did start into my Evinrude project last night while waiting for supper to cook after work. Still trying to Identify what size the block is. I bought the block and motor leg separated. And I know they are not from the same motor. I know the leg information due to the model number being on the side. The block only needs to be fully identified. I looked at the johnson/evinrude part list and the carbs appear to be one, of probably many, identifying features on the block. (No stamped numbers on block for model number that I know of) The carb gasket apear to be for a 200hp johnson/evinrude and the jets are for the 1987 model year. But I need to confirm a bit more with research. Oh the fun and games I get myself into.

Have fun and keep your line in the water. (You catch more fish that way!)

Jeff

____________________________


1991 Bayliner Trophy, 2002WA "Under Restoration"
http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=52605
1997 Lund ProV 17', 60hp Johnson
1970 21' Starcraft Chieftain
1983 Lund Utility, 25HP Merc OB
1968 Evindure Tri-hull
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-7-2010

Update 10-7-2010

Didn't get much done last night. Sort of took it easy due to not being able to start the glass'n untill the new order shows up. Should be in around next Wens or Thurs. So till then the rush is off. I did have three buddies confirm that they are willing to help out with the glass'n. So This should be get done in one evening so long as all the prep work is done. I did complete the following from my list;

1) Finish cut the transom -cut bottom to allow drain plug routing, -router depression for tie down u-bolts.

Also finish cut the gussetts for the transom. Started looking at the Evinrude and doing my research. The power head is a 200hp 1987. I identified the size by the carb gaskets and the jet sizes. Started looking for things that need fixing on it. Noticed that the startor "Leaked-overheated" I guess common issue with these motors. So startor and regulator needs to be replaced. Hoping the power packs are ok, but if not they are not a big deal. I only bought the motor for the core. Right now the motor "Block" and "gear housing do not need to be rebuilt so there is a cost savings there.

Started looking around my garage and I have some boat tools that need to sell to make room. I have most of the tools to rebuild a merc upper unit (MR, Alpha, Bravo). Like shiming tools, drive shaft alighment tool, and the wrench for disasembly. Any one looking for any of this stuff let me know.

Tonight I plan on finishing the following after cutting the grass.

1) Finish cut the stringers -add 1/8-1/4 clearence on bottom for bedding them to hull. (Right now they are press fit) - add clearence for glass lamination all arounf perimeter.
2) Finish cut the for/aft spacers - floatation chamber spacer are tight fit. Need to ad clearence for glass thickness when wrapping the wood.
3) Finish cut the cross boat floatation chamber boards -once again add clearance, -and add drain tube cut out for under the chamber like factory set up.


Sorry no pic today. Nothing to show. When I start cutting the matting I'll take some pics.

Couple questions for those of you that want to chime in.

1) I plan on "painting" and matting with 1708 all the wood before they are glassed in. Is this needed. Can I only "mat the bottom and interfaceing edges of all the wood, then glass (mat) everything in place. I know that I will get a better bond to the wood if I paint and mat the wood before installation due to the peices being flat on a table for the matt wet out. But I do not know if I have enought mat. (only 8 yards of 1708 and 50 yard roll of 8.5oz chop mat.
2) How many layers of mat on the stringers of 1708 after they are bedded down. It appears that factory only had 1 layer of 17oz woven roving and one layer of chopped mat same thickness. I planned on 2 layer of 1708 biax totally coverage of the stringers over one layer of chopped mat in corner along hull.

I hope all you are have as much fun following this as i m having doing this.

Thanks Jeff

____________________________


1991 Bayliner Trophy, 2002WA "Under Restoration"
http://www.baylinerownersclub.org/fo...ad.php?t=52605
1997 Lund ProV 17', 60hp Johnson
1970 21' Starcraft Chieftain
1983 Lund Utility, 25HP Merc OB
1968 Evindure Tri-hull
 

j_k_bisson

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Messages
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Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

Well that is to today. Here are a list of my questions that still need answering.

1) I plan on "painting" and matting with 1708 all the wood before they are glassed in. Is this needed. Can I only "mat the bottom and interfaceing edges of all the wood, then glass (mat) everything in place. I know that I will get a better bond to the wood if I paint and mat the wood before installation due to the peices being flat on a table for the matt wet out. But I do not know if I have enought mat. (only 8 yards of 1708 and 50 yard roll of 8.5oz chop mat.
2) How many layers of mat on the stringers of 1708 after they are bedded down. It appears that factory only had 1 layer of 17oz woven roving and one layer of chopped mat same thickness. I planned on 2 layer of 1708 biax totally coverage of the stringers over one layer of chopped mat in corner along hull.
3)My motor bolts for the new Evinrude 200hp are at a different spacing. Old 9.25" new 13"from centerline of boat. I allowed enough room with the gusset locations and all that. But I would like to plug the old hole on the out side skin. I was thinking when I "Laminate" my new transom piece in I could fill the old holes with the peanut butter epoxy and the grind out a bit and re gel coat. I had planned on fixing all my gel coat scatches after the transom was in. My question is will spectrum gel coat stick to system three epoxy? And how long do I have to wait to start this (week to 30 days?)
4) What is the expansion allowence for an aluminum gas tank in boat building. I'm goin to be 1/4" clear both sides with out the rubber strips that where originally between the tank and hull. They are 1/8" thick.
5) What do you use to remove cured silicone/adhesive from gel coat. Around the splash well? There is the silicone that I have not scraped off due to not wanting to damage the gel coat. My father says to use vinigar. But I believe that only works with wet silicone.


If anyone can answer my questions it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Jeff
 

proshadetree

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1,887
Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

There is a device like an erase used on paint for decal removal that should be great for silicone removal. I would use 2 layers of 1708 to tab in stringers over 1 layer of csm. csm or other light mat to seal the wood should be fine.
 

j_k_bisson

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Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

Please ignor my ingnorance but what is "CSM"? Is it the 8.5ob chop mat material? I have that in 6Inch wide.
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-9-2010

Update 10-9-2010

Well I finished all final cuts and re-dri fitted everything. Elverything has 1/4 clearence for both bedding and wraqping of the raw wood. Pushed the hull out tonight and sweeped the garage then blew it out with compressed air. The neighbour's are going to love the ichy dust tomorrow. I did try to keep it down by wetting the drive way before and after the blowing. Oh well.

Still need to cut all my fabric. Will do that the night before glass'n. To ensure the edges do not fray. So now just need to wait till next weekend.

Jeff
 

j_k_bisson

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Update 10-10-2010

Update 10-10-2010

Scrapped off all the silicone sealent from the outside of the boat from all the fittings and around top perimeter. Wondering is there is something to take off the rest/film for silicone left? Some one metioned there is an eraser out there that does this. Anyone know a manufacture. Tried every eraser that the kids have in the hose. No luck they are too soft.

Going to take off the graphics today. Need to fix a buck of scratches. Anyone know where I can get the factory looking 1991 trophy decals. I know of great lake skipper. but they do not have the one I want.

Jeff
 

Colega

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Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Messages
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Re: 1991 Bayliner Trophy 2002 Transom Repair

Pretty cool project, thanks for posting it... I'm not a Trophy owner, but I have been reading about them quite a bit lately, and I was wondering about your engine choice with the 225 Evinrude. The max HP for the 2002 is 175 ponnies, as far as I know (at least on the newer ones).
 
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