1965 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Ok, is there any better way to pour resin out of a 5 gal bucket? When I mixed a small batch it freakin went everywhere! Gets all over the bucket and a bunch gets all over the lid on the bucket.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Hello parris..

your MEKP ratio should be 1.5 % or 2 % ( depending on the resin.. Low VOC or not ). Thats 10cc / QT @ 1.5%.

5 gal spout problems eh ? LOL... Ive done that same sploshy thing many times..

Solution: set it up on a table with the spout AWAY from you. Tip it towards you until you get resin .. without Bloob...Bloop ( Insert language here ).

YD.
 
Last edited:

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Hello parris..

your MEKP ratio should be 1.5 % or 2 % ( depending on the resin.. Low VOC or not ). Thats 10cc / QT @ 1.5%.

5 gal spout problems eh ? LOL... Ive done that same sploshy thing many times..

Solution: set it up on a table with the spout AWAY from you. Tip it towards you until you get resin .. without Bloob...Bloop ( Insert language here ).

YD.

ha ha ha. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out, with a few less swear words this time, or maybe if I swear in the correct order it will work. The thins is, is that they supply just 5gal buckets that they fill for me, and there is no real spout on it, just a hole in the lid, so not sure it'll work or not.

Anyway, I broke the bank today buying resin, cloth, matt, hardner, hardner dispenser, roller, cabo-sil, ground fiber. And also bit the bullet and bought a sheet of 3/4" marine grade fir plywood!!!!!!!! FREAK!! $100 for one sheet.

So I mixed up a bit of PB and filled some holes. So I was planning on just using poly resin to fix my few spots on the hull that is below the water line, I figure it will be ok, since its being painted afterwords.
 

drewpster

Commander
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Lay the bucket on its side with the spout at 12 o'clock. Hold your pot under the spout and roll the bucket on its side until you get a nice controllable stream of resin, roll it back to 12 to stop. Works great. Even with a full bucket it should have enough space in it to put it on its side with the spout up and no resin comes out.

drewp
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Lay the bucket on its side with the spout at 12 o'clock. Hold your pot under the spout and roll the bucket on its side until you get a nice controllable stream of resin, roll it back to 12 to stop. Works great. Even with a full bucket it should have enough space in it to put it on its side with the spout up and no resin comes out.

drewp

Cool thanks. I tried just tipping it back and it works great, but its full now. Once it gets more empty I'm sure the rolling on it side will work better.

Got my first glassing done tonight!! Did the first layer on the 4 repairs on the hull done, I guess a couple more layers in order, and also going to start on building the transom.

In between the two layers of plywood for the transom, should I put CSM or Woven cloth in between them? Wouldn't woven be stronger?

DAMIT I'M ITCHY!!!!!!!
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Maybe a dumb question but what's the best way to have the grain of the wood run on the transom, I would think horizontal?
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Cool thanks. I tried just tipping it back and it works great, but its full now. Once it gets more empty I'm sure the rolling on it side will work better.

Got my first glassing done tonight!! Did the first layer on the 4 repairs on the hull done, I guess a couple more layers in order, and also going to start on building the transom.

In between the two layers of plywood for the transom, should I put CSM or Woven cloth in between them? Wouldn't woven be stronger?

DAMIT I'M ITCHY!!!!!!!

Put some baby powder in your grinding suit..and wash off with shaving cream.. helps alot with the itch.. ( oh and cotton every thing sheets clothes etc.. ).

Between the 2 plys themselves ? or to the trans ?

No woven for either.. you should epoxy or glue for the plys together..and use bond putty for the wood to transom ( unless you have a perfectly flat inside transom..which..erm..cough.. ).

I used to bond ply with mat..but now im finding that Epoxy works better... well.. it also depends on the situation.. :)

YD.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Put some baby powder in your grinding suit..and wash off with shaving cream.. helps alot with the itch.. ( oh and cotton every thing sheets clothes etc.. ).

Between the 2 plys themselves ? or to the trans ?

No woven for either.. you should epoxy or glue for the plys together..and use bond putty for the wood to transom ( unless you have a perfectly flat inside transom..which..erm..cough.. ).

I used to bond ply with mat..but now im finding that Epoxy works better... well.. it also depends on the situation.. :)

YD.

Thanks for the tips.

For the wood to the transom, which way to run the grain? Also I guess should each piece of wood run the same grain direction.

I was going to use matt inbetween the two pieces and PB them together, or should I just use PL inbetween the 2 plys?

I was also going to use some glass matt on the transom skin before the wood gets glued to it.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thanks for the tips.

For the wood to the transom, which way to run the grain? Also I guess should each piece of wood run the same grain direction.

I was going to use matt inbetween the two pieces and PB them together, or should I just use PL inbetween the 2 plys?

I was also going to use some glass matt on the transom skin before the wood gets glued to it.

I never really thought too much about which way the grain was to wood to wood..or wood transom to glass transom. Normally the transom is wider then 4' .. meaning you only have One way to put it ( Im kinda sure that the grain of the top lams in your ply are going to be transverse..meaning side to side ).

Clamp and epoxy/glue your ( Im assuming you have 2 sheets of 3/4" ply ) together without any PB.

As far as your transom bond..like I said it depends on how flush you are.

Just make sure there are no Air pockets when you clamp ( Again I suggest you make some vent holes in your ply so you dont pocket air no matter what you use.. PB,1709 or multi layer of mat).

YD.

PS. Make sure you Know whats gonna happen with your resin/glass etc. before you kick any of your resin off :)
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

I never really thought too much about which way the grain was to wood to wood..or wood transom to glass transom. Normally the transom is wider then 4' .. meaning you only have One way to put it ( Im kinda sure that the grain of the top lams in your ply are going to be transverse..meaning side to side ).

Clamp and epoxy/glue your ( Im assuming you have 2 sheets of 3/4" ply ) together without any PB.

As far as your transom bond..like I said it depends on how flush you are.

Just make sure there are no Air pockets when you clamp ( Again I suggest you make some vent holes in your ply so you dont pocket air no matter what you use.. PB,1709 or multi layer of mat).

YD.

PS. Make sure you Know whats gonna happen with your resin/glass etc. before you kick any of your resin off :)

Thanks, yes 2 pieces of 3/4". I'll pick up some PL premium then.

I got one of those metal rollers, so how the heck do you keep them from getting stuck with glue after one use? Now mine wont roll, I guess its full glass resin now and stuck? Kinda expensive for a 1 use thing.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Thanks, yes 2 pieces of 3/4". I'll pick up some PL premium then.

I got one of those metal rollers, so how the heck do you keep them from getting stuck with glue after one use? Now mine wont roll, I guess its full glass resin now and stuck? Kinda expensive for a 1 use thing.

You should have acetone in a small bucket ready to wash your brushes and rollers :) .. before this happens..

now that your roller has kicked off..you should remove the small screw at then end and remove the roller.. then take some fine sand paper to the shaft..and find the right sized drill bit for the bore of your roller and clean that out. Then put some Vasiline on the shaft and start ...erm..kinda...um.. make love to your roller bore untill its working without bind. then rinse well with acetone :)

What is PL ?

Nite nite..

YD.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

You should have acetone in a small bucket ready to wash your brushes and rollers :) .. before this happens..

now that your roller has kicked off..you should remove the small screw at then end and remove the roller.. then take some fine sand paper to the shaft..and find the right sized drill bit for the bore of your roller and clean that out. Then put some Vasiline on the shaft and start ...erm..kinda...um.. make love to your roller bore untill its working without bind. then rinse well with acetone :)

What is PL ?

Nite nite..

YD.

PL Premium, is glue, I've seen many use it on here to glue their transom pieces together.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Ok, got the roller apart and freed up, got another layer of CSM down on the repairs. I'm thinking 3 layers should be good. I'm thinking the final layer will be woven roving.

About the vent holes in the transom when I glue down, how big and how many holes should there be? Won't the holes weaken the transom? Or just fill them with PB after.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Some more progress today. Got the transom built and fitted today after work. Lots of in and out and sanding with the belt sander, but got'er done. Now If I could just figure out how I should glue these pieces together? I've seen a few ways people on here do it, and I'm undecided? What's the best way? Originally I was just going to use PL Premium to glue the two halves together? Then PB it to the transom?

And here is a few pics. See the nice Marine plywood!! It's very nice, but its not 100% void free.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • P1020912.JPG
    P1020912.JPG
    116.7 KB · Views: 1
  • P1020913.JPG
    P1020913.JPG
    102 KB · Views: 1
  • P1020914.JPG
    P1020914.JPG
    142.7 KB · Views: 1

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Let's think about this Parris. We are always talking about marine grade versus exterior grade ply and the difference is that ext. grade has voids and that we want the glue to be water proof. Ok, so when we laminate two pieces together we are just applying another ply. We want to try and accomplish the same thing. They do NOT use glass and cloth to apply their plys. Using wood glue to glue two pieces of wood together is the best way to obtain a permanent bond. I believe using Gorilla glue or any other type of waterproof wood glue is the best way to bond the two panels together. Titebond III is and excellent waterproof glue for gluing plywood laminate. It has been tested an approved for marine use. It Provides maximum work time and allows you to ensure total voidless coverage. When dry it is 100% waterproof. Clamps and screws will give you a totally permanent bond. Personally I would remove the screw after the transom is dry. I would then seal the transom with a couple of coats of resin and 1.5 oz mat and pay close attention to the edges. Then use Resin, Cabosil and hardener to make PB to apply to the skin. Just don't squeeze to hard and make sure you mix up enough butter to coat both surfaces evenly with 1/4 inch of butter. 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon should do it.

You did and EXCELLENT job on your transom. NICE fit!!! I would get some one to help with the installation just to make sure that IF anything goes awry you have an extra set of hands to help. Once it is in You wil have a Major milestone accomplished.

Keep the pics comin.

I been workin on finishing my shed extesion so NO Boat progress for me.
Maybe next week.


I'm just sayin...:D
 

drewpster

Commander
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Looks great ParrisW.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Let's think about this Parris. We are always talking about marine grade versus exterior grade ply and the difference is that ext. grade has voids and that we want the glue to be water proof. Ok, so when we laminate two pieces together we are just applying another ply. We want to try and accomplish the same thing. They do NOT use glass and cloth to apply their plys. Using wood glue to glue two pieces of wood together is the best way to obtain a permanent bond. I believe using Gorilla glue or any other type of waterproof wood glue is the best way to bond the two panels together. Titebond III is and excellent waterproof glue for gluing plywood laminate. It has been tested an approved for marine use. It Provides maximum work time and allows you to ensure total voidless coverage. When dry it is 100% waterproof. Clamps and screws will give you a totally permanent bond. Personally I would remove the screw after the transom is dry. I would then seal the transom with a couple of coats of resin and 1.5 oz mat and pay close attention to the edges. Then use Resin, Cabosil and hardener to make PB to apply to the skin. Just don't squeeze to hard and make sure you mix up enough butter to coat both surfaces evenly with 1/4 inch of butter. 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon should do it.

You did and EXCELLENT job on your transom. NICE fit!!! I would get some one to help with the installation just to make sure that IF anything goes awry you have an extra set of hands to help. Once it is in You wil have a Major milestone accomplished.

Keep the pics comin.

I been workin on finishing my shed extesion so NO Boat progress for me.
Maybe next week.


I'm just sayin...:D

Thanks for the kinds words and great advice!! I'll try to find that glue! I gotg the fit pretty good, the starbord side is perfect, the port side has a little gap, but nothing a little PB wont fill.

Looks great ParrisW.

Thanks!
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Some more progress today. Got the transom built and fitted today after work. Lots of in and out and sanding with the belt sander, but got'er done. Now If I could just figure out how I should glue these pieces together? I've seen a few ways people on here do it, and I'm undecided? What's the best way? Originally I was just going to use PL Premium to glue the two halves together? Then PB it to the transom?

And here is a few pics. See the nice Marine plywood!! It's very nice, but its not 100% void free.

attachment.php


attachment.php


attachment.php

Your good with the wood glue ( mixed feelings with the gorilla glue ).

Yes remove your screws after the bond and fill them.

SEAL your edges of your Ply VERY Well.

Dont end your lam with just Woving .. put 1.5 oz mat over it .. IMO..

Lastly .. I hope you have more then those two quick clamps to bed your trans down..

You can screw and glue your trans..or Wood had some nifty trans clamps shown on another thread ( though he should probably explain how they work ).

YD.
 

parrisw

Ensign
Joined
Jun 8, 2009
Messages
985
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Your good with the wood glue ( mixed feelings with the gorilla glue ).

Yes remove your screws after the bond and fill them.

SEAL your edges of your Ply VERY Well.

Dont end your lam with just Woving .. put 1.5 oz mat over it .. IMO..

Lastly .. I hope you have more then those two quick clamps to bed your trans down..

You can screw and glue your trans..or Wood had some nifty trans clamps shown on another thread ( though he should probably explain how they work ).

YD.

Yes, thanks, I wont be using the gorilla glue.

I'll stick with the waterproof wood glue.

Yes I've seen those clamps, they look great, and no I wont just be using those 2 quick clamps.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Re: 1964 Johnson Tri-Hull restore!

Instructions for 2 x 4 transom clamps.

The top bolt is for applyin pressure to the end of the clamp
The middle bolt is for applying pressure to the middle of the clamp.

You should get the clamp to within 1/4 of an inch clearance on the middle section and 1/2 inch clearance on the lower end and then slip it over the transom. Tighten the middle bolt snug then begin to tighten the upper bolt to tighten the lower end of the clamp snug. Alternate back and forth until you get the desired tightness. NOTE: I would highly recommend you have a helper to assisist with this clamping method and ratchet wrenches or drills with socket attachments. You do not have much time to get this done and the clamps are a bit bulky and unweildy to handle. Practice with them BEFORE you do the final glue up. I recommend 5 clamps.

I'm just sayin...:D
 
Top