16' Nescher ski boat complete restore- SPLASHED!!

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Next was tackling the transom and keel beam. I debated the plywood and glass / epoxy method....but my friend David had just finished up a restore on a late 50's boat (complete with 57 Chevy looking fins!) and swore by Seacast. I looked into it, and liked the fact that I wouldn't have to ever deal with it again! It is pricey.....so get out your American Express if you go that way! The first thing I had to do was create an inner "skin", since my boat didn't have one. I started out by making a template out of cardboard. Since the hull widen as you move away from the transom skin, I taped some scrap blocks to the transom to position my template exactly where the new skin would be.

transspaceers.jpg


This allowed me to create a really accurate pattern.

transtemp.jpg


I also had some glass work on the inside...reverse side of what you saw in the earlier pictures.

transglassinside.jpg
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

The next step was to lay up a "blank" of glass and mat. I laid up 4 layers of glass and mat on a sheet of gloss plastic laminate (Formica), worked great, no wax or anything.....just popped right off when I was done.

transblank.jpg


Once it was free from the laminate, I traced the pattern onto the blank and cut it out. I had been pondering what to use to spacers for some time. At first I thought of using small PVC tubing, but I wasn't sure if there would be thermal expansion issues. Finally I decided on the cardboard tube off of clothes hanger from the dry cleaners! I cut pieces to length, then epoxied them to the blank. After that set up I filled the tubes with epoxy. Later I learned that Seacast sells spacers....oh well!

trhansblankwspacers.jpg


Once I was ready to put it in place, I put epoxy on the ends of the spacers and held the skin in place until it dried with some boards.

transbracing.jpg


Once the epoxy set up, I pulled out the braces and tabed in between the hull and the new inner skin!
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

The next step was talking some friends into helping me carry the hull outside onto the grass and flipping it right side up. Thanks Matt and B-nard! Once we had that done I picked up the boat and set it back on the trailer with my tractor. Given that the floor and transom were missing, the center of gravity for the boat was actually about where the front keel roller was. I was worried that if most of the weight was concentrated on the roller (not the bunk boards further back) that I might damage the hull. So once I backed the trailer into the shop, I lifted up the front end with the tractor. In the back I slowly blocked up the back part on the bunk boards.

backontrailerwsand.jpg


Eventually I was able to slide a frame made from two 2x6's under the center of the boat. After that I added horizontal blocking between the 2x6's that matched the curvature of the hull. After that was in place, I taped plastic to the hull and "foamed" in the space between the blocking and the hull. Once this was done I pulled out the frame, added a rear cross member and casters.

cart.jpg


Now I had a "cradle that would support the boat and keep it "square" during the floor / transom refit.

onthecart.jpg
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

archbuilder,
Very impressive work. Great idea.
Keep up the great work.
Bob
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Thanks! There is more to come, I spent a couple hours on it after turkey today!
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

In this next section I built a "shell" to hold the seacast to form the keel beam. Here is a shot of the floor before I started the work on prepping for the keel work.

cleanedupfloor.jpg


This one here shows the completed transom inner skin.

laiduptransfloor.jpg


Getting the floor ground and cleaned up.

keelpreped.jpg


Creating the shell took some head scratching for a while.....I needed to create a blank.....figured I could do this out of two layers of foam covered with packing tape, but how to hold it in place??? The solution was to cut out some plywood braces that spanned perpendicular to the beam. I cut them so that they would fit where the floor would eventually go. This not only held them in place, but the bottom of the braces would give me a reference to where the top of the beam should be. I wanted to make the blank taller than it needed to be, then cut it to height. I made the blank 2" taller than it needed to be, and cut notches in the bottom of my braces. I also made the notches wider than they needed to be. That allowed me to position the beam right where it needed to be left to right. Most of the braces were slightly wedged into place. I used a wood shim to tighten up any that wouldn't stay in place on their own. Once they were in place, I nailed a 1"x +/-10" piece of plywood to each side of the keel blank to hold in place. After that the easy part, if there is such a thing in boat restoration!

keelblankbrace.jpg


I laid up a section of mat and glass between each one of the braces. Once that set up I took out the braces and laid up the rest of the glass. Good thing I made it tall, the top got a bit "wavy"!

keellayup.jpg
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

After it cured I marked the top using the braces as a refrence.

markingthetopofkeel.jpg


Then cut it to height

keelopen.jpg


Here is what is left of the form after I pulled it out. It popped right out, worked great!

keelform.jpg
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

The next step was to pour the seacast! My friend David volunteered to help me, so one morning this summer we mixed it up. I wish I had shots of the actual process.....but we were a little busy. The best way I can think to describe it is runny peanut butter with hair in it! Before we did the pour, I prepped the trans by cutting out the damaged area.

cutintopoftrans.jpg


That gave us a great opening to pour the seacast through. I also built a "funnel" that fit in the opening. If you use seacast, I would highly recommend the funnel, makes life easy! Hmmm if you look closely at the bottom you can see that bolt I had been looking for! You can also see the spacers.

transopeningtop.jpg


Here is a shot of the transom when I was grinding it down for the fiberglass cap.

seacasttrans.jpg


The keel right after we poured it.

seacastkeel.jpg


And with the glass and mat cap on it.

keelwithcap.jpg


I have been very happy with Seacast. It is expensive, but works exactly as advertised. I was worried about it "kicking off" too soon, but that wasn't an issue even with the temps in the heigh 80's. I'm amazed at how strong the keel and transom are! And I will never have to do it again! If you plan on having the boat long term, it?s the way to go.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Beautiful work. How did you insure that the seacast got to the sides of the transom and filled to the top on the corners?

Did you tie the keel into the transom with seacast?

I imagine some of the iboats member's are going to ask so I will for them.....

How much seacast?
How much money for the seacast?

What's planned to power this beast? ;)

Some of your photos were too large for the forum and you should limit them to 640 x 480 ...... just an easy re-size in photobucket to correct them.
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Beautiful work. How did you insure that the seacast got to the sides of the transom and filled to the top on the corners?

Did you tie the keel into the transom with seacast?

I imagine some of the iboats member's are going to ask so I will for them.....

How much seacast?
How much money for the seacast?

What's planned to power this beast? ;)

Thanks Bob, I will work on the picture size....I've had a hard time figuring all that out here on the forum.

I didn't tie the keel into the transom. The original designer didn't have the keel tied into the transom, so I followed what they did. I did consider it, but I thought I should follow the original design in that respect.

I bought 3 five gallon buckets. I used about 2-1/2 of them, more or less what I figured I needed.

As for getting the transom full, we used a 1"x3/4" x4' piece of wood to work the seacast into the transom......more or less just poking it in and out of the different areas over and over. There are a couple of voids on each side at the top. Those areas were actually higher than where we were putting in the seacast. When I flip the boat, I plan on drilling a hole through the inner skin in those areas and filling them with seacast. According to the litature it will still bond the the hardened seacast. They are both really small areas, so I'm not to concerned about them.

I can't remember exact price, but I think it was around $700 for the seacast....not cheap at all. But it doesn't rot and is incredibly strong!

As for power.....I'm waiting on a local mechanic to finish up tuning up a 115 hp Mercury tower of power. I thought it would be the correct choice for the boat! I'm guessing there won't be much boat in the water with the Mercury behind it!
 

SKIBUM1M

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

great job so far. I love the look of the boat and cant wait to see it with new gelcoat/paint. I got the cap out of the back yard and am now starting on wiring. Keep up the great work.
 

mikezohsix

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

I'm impressed by the tooling and injinuity (sp?) that you're showing on your rebuild.

I'm in the aerospace business and we have lot's of very specialized tooling and fixtures. Your ideas would be right up there with some of the professionals.
 

Bob_VT

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Thanks for the info!

Since you did not tie the keel in ....... if you do not know what the original boat was rated for HP wise (I am sure the 115 should be fine) now might be the time to install a knee brace or two ..... just as a suggestion.
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Thanks Mikezohsix, it seems building things is my gift. I have been in construction since birth more or less (my Dad built houses)....so all the experience makes it a lot easier. I also have a great shop and tools, that doesn't hurt at all! Here are a couple of pics from fitting out the floor. I started with a handy cardboard template.

floortemp.jpg


Here is the back section of plywood, eventually I cut it in half.....you will see more of that in the "foam" section to come......that should be a loooonnnngggg post! I did spring for the marine plywood....it was nice to work with.

floorplywood.jpg


Here is shot of Buck and I testing out the floor. Buck is in charge of security, food tasting, and of course any complex issues that come up during the project!

buckandbobsmall.jpg


I will work on posting the "foam" section next....
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Thanks for the info!

Since you did not tie the keel in ....... if you do not know what the original boat was rated for HP wise (I am sure the 115 should be fine) now might be the time to install a knee brace or two ..... just as a suggestion.

I think the way I tied the floor in should solve any issues with bracing the transom. The original tag did indicate that it was rated up to 125 hp, so I think we are good. I have some shots of how it all ties together once I get that far in my post.
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

The next stage was to get the floor actually in permanently. Part of that process was foaming the floor.....now it seems this is a hot button topic with some people.....but after doing some research I decided to go with the pour foam. I still had a lot of reservations about the expanding foam. I popped some aluminum trim off a building once with the spray foam...I was surprised at how much force it produced. My friend David K used expanding foam on his....I wish I had some video! He used the tank type system rather than the pour foam. His method was to spray the cavity with what he thought would fill it, then throw the deck on top of it....then stand on it!

One of the reason I went with the pour foam, is I figured I could calculate how much I needed. All of the literature I saw indicated some type of volume ratio...."1 quart of mixed material makes 1 cubic foot of foam." I figured this way I have a good shot at getting the right amount of foam. I was still leery of "blowing up" my boat with it! I thought if it had a way to "escape" the cavity I would be ok. One of the web sites I found, Areomarine products in San Diego, had something along the lines of "have questions, call the owner answers the phone". I like that kind of service, so I gave him a call about my concerns. I told him that I was planning on tilting the boat forward, then starting in the bow and working back. I was planning on installing a 4' long section of deck, foam it, then repeat till I got to the stern. He said that would work great as long at the deck was fastened in place and the excess foam had a place to escape. So I bought my foam and was ready to go! Next was getting the deck in place.....

The front part of the original floor was just glass and mat. It was in the storage area up under the bow...about a 3' triangle. So for the first foam pour I made a "form" to shape the top of the foam. I also installed the first section of deck. I could screw it to the seacast keel beam, but had no way of attaching the edges. It looked like they had "glued" the original plywood down with resin, so I did the same. I used West Systems 6-ten...worked great. I was still worried about the foam bowing up my deck, so I put temp braces on each end of it. You can see the braces and the form in this pic..


bowfoamform.jpg


I had a piece of wood to wedge between the bow support beam and the form to hold I in place...here is a picture of the form after I finished the foam. the two holes were "relief" holes at the front of the bow.

IMG_2392.jpg


I learned a couple of things from my first pour....

1. The mixed foam is very "water like", I thought it would be thicker...therefore it "runs" like water.

2. It has to be "contained" to overcome gravity.

3. I worried too much about the expansion damage issues.

4. It doesn't expand quite as much as advertised.

Here is a picture of what happened...still had some work to do on my method!


foamoops.jpg


I had the boat slightly tilted forward...unfortunately where I poured in the foam, the hull was curving towards the stern. The foam ran down this curve, gaining speed and ran completely past the deck! it ran back under the decking, but some it still expanded where I didn't want it to! Also the foam would only expand up so far before gravity made it grow sideways....The two board are some that I used for makeshift dams....So after pondering my next pour for a while this is what I came up with....packing tape, cardboard and duct tape!

secondfloorsectionfoam.jpg


Actually this is a picture from the 2nd section of deck, but you get the idea. The "dam" forced the foam to expand inside the cavity till it was full (also kept it from running out). Here are the results:

foampop.jpg


Once I removed the "dam", I just had to clean things up, and move on to the next section. I poured the foam into the cavity through 1" holes using a funnel. Once I had poured it in, I put a piece of duct tape on the hole and set a concrete block on it.

funnel.jpg


Hopefully this will save someone else the learning curve!
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Here is a shot of how the bow foam came out....

bowfoam.jpg


Next time I will post how I dealt with the bilge pit and the last of the foam....
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

For the last foam pour, the bilge pit was to be the "relief" area. At this point I had gotten pretty good at figuring out how much foam I needed to pour. I would just calculate the volume of the space, then add about 50% more than the instruction indicated. The product is temperature sensitive, but it was in the high 80's to low 90's when I was pouring. Maybe the humidity had an effect on it too? Regardless, I was planning on using the foam to form the sides of the pit. Once the foam was shaped, I glassed in the pit. Once again I made a form...this one was a box I made from my handy cardboard and packing tape.

bildgebox.jpg


To prep the pit area, I put packing tape where I didn't want the foam to stick....and it sticks to about anything other than plastic!

bildgepittape.jpg


I put a 4x4 block inside the form, then wedged it in place with some plywood and shims. Wood shims are the handiest thing ever....I'm constantly using them to get things exactly where I want them.

bildgeformready.jpg


My calculations were right on when it came to the foam.

bildgefoam.jpg


Here is a shot of it with the form pulled. It just needs shaped and cleaned up. Next time I will post some pics of it and the floor after I got it glassed in.

bildgefoamlessform.jpg
 

vegasphotoman

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

great idea with the office depot roll tubes......very ingenius using varius around the house stuff for unconventional uses.....


Keep up the awsome work!
 

archbuilder

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Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Re: 16' Nescher ski boat complete restore

Thanks Vegas, we try to think outside the box here! lol! Right now I miss summer, its raining and 40 here....headed out to the shop to make some progress......
 
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