1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

[bigredinohio]

Okay, I am starting my first attempt at restoring an old boat. I decided to go with this little old boat as I thought it had character and I always liked Checkmates.

what we brought home to restore

I decided to clean the outside and buff the top to see if I could restore any of the gel coat. It did smooth out somewhat but unfortunately it did not restore any color and probably too far gone for simply "sanding and buffing" back to it's original state. I've had some great input in another thread regarding the gel coat. I have not made up my mind as to what I want to do but my wife just wants the boat to function and worry about looks down the road.

after buffing...you can notice the difference in colors and "blotch" effects

Now I'm in the process of gutting the "soft" floor out of the boat. To my surprise, T-111 wood siding was flipped over and used as the flooring. Also I saw a lot of water standing in the bottom and my stringer is just nasty!

sample removal of carpet with flooring coming up with the carpet

T-111 flooring!

stringer sitting in water

a look up towards the bow

One quick question though...is it alright to be doing floor/stringer work while the outboard motor is still attached to the boat? I don't have a stand or any place for the motor to sit in my little garage as the boat itself barely fits and the city won't allow it outside more then 48 hrs. I figure it's probably alright considering it really hasn't had any for at least 5 years or more?

Well, got to get back at it. All suggestions, pointers and/or comments are most welcome.

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Looks like you got some fun ahead of you Here's a link to some detailed instructions on how to build a motor stand incase you need to replace the transom also http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=266570, you may need to modify/reinforce it to hold the weight of your particular motor. Personally I screwed two 2x6's to two trees that were close together in my backyard as my stand .​

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Okay, I am starting my first attempt at restoring an old boat. I decided to go with this little old boat as I thought it had character and I always liked Checkmates.


what we brought home to restore

I decided to clean the outside and buff the top to see if I could restore any of the gel coat. It did smooth out somewhat but unfortunately it did not restore any color and probably too far gone for simply "sanding and buffing" back to it's original state. I've had some great input in another thread regarding the gel coat. I have not made up my mind as to what I want to do but my wife just wants the boat to function and worry about looks down the road.

after buffing...you can notice the difference in colors and "blotch" effects

Now I'm in the process of gutting the "soft" floor out of the boat. To my surprise, T-111 wood siding was flipped over and used as the flooring. Also I saw a lot of water standing in the bottom and my stringer is just nasty!

one quick question though...is it alright to be doing floor/stringer work while the outboard motor is still attached to the boat? I don't have a stand or any place for the motor to sit in my little garage as the boat itself barely fits and the city won't allow it outside more then 48 hrs. I figure it's probably alright considering it really hasn't had any for at least 5 years or more?

Well, got to get back at it. All suggestions, pointers and/or comments are most welcome.

Well with those pictures and the present condition..... I would investigate a bit further. I can see your reason for leaving the OB mounted however.... how is the transom? Test bore holes are going to be needed for samples.

Based on many of the other restoration projects ...... I am willing to bet the transom is "infected" too.

If you strip the OB off the boat will that small addirional space help you in the garage? You might ask a friend to store the OB for a short time.

 

[wca_tim]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Have you checked the core carefully or talken samples? It looks like some of it is pretty dark from the one picture you posted.

 

[bshaw319]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Big Red:

You and I are literally in the same boat. over the weekend I brought home a 75 Checkmate V-Mate II that I purchased for a few hundred bucks. Good thing is that it floats and partially runs (replacing cracked ignition coil). the issue I have is that it's been so parted out that I am not sure what's original and what isn't.

The throttle controls are royally rigged, using the electronics from and old Evinrude box and the throttle stick from an OMC box. The original gas tank was replaced by a plastic five gallon and all the interior pieces have been changed out for aftermarket junk.

Anyway, I would like to keep in touch to swap stories during these two restorations. I am currently working with checkmate to get original information. I will send anything your way, if I get anything. Just let me know how to contact you.

can't believe I found another person starting the same project I am.

BShaw319 in Iowa

 

[wca_tim]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Look here (and use the search function):

http://checkmate-boats.com/

Allso, the folks at Checkmate can be REALLY helpful on occassion (some are involved in the site above). I rebuilt a 1989 model and they still had the templates for the interior and built an original looking 3-color striped interior on composite unstead of wood... for less than I could have had someone local rebuild them... under $2k including replacement for all wood includingbench seats and new bucket seats, etc... Great company to work with in general and very well constructed boats for the price point, etc... I'd buy another in a heartbeat - used as a project, used in good shape or even new if I were in the market for that style of boat.

My question about the "core" is regarding the ballsa core which may or may not be below the layer of hull glass you're down to now. Apparently the construction switched in the mind 70's to end grained balsa cored hulls - I'm thinking yours may not have been built that way. These are generally very well built, hand laid hulls and the balsa coring contributes significant strength and rigidity, but if the core is breached it can also become saturated with water and rot... just like the stringers, etc... i've replaced the stringers and everything but the core in my 1989 model and have at every step been impressed with the quality of construction. It also handles water very well for a 17 1/2 foot boat. the trimates like yours will absolutely fly with a good sized outboard on them... like 70s, 80s, ++ if you're up for the pucker factor.


Great boat!

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Big Red:

You and I are literally in the same boat. over the weekend I brought home a 75 Checkmate V-Mate II that I purchased for a few hundred bucks. Good thing is that it floats and partially runs (replacing cracked ignition coil). the issue I have is that it's been so parted out that I am not sure what's original and what isn't.

The throttle controls are royally rigged, using the electronics from and old Evinrude box and the throttle stick from an OMC box. The original gas tank was replaced by a plastic five gallon and all the interior pieces have been changed out for aftermarket junk.

Anyway, I would like to keep in touch to swap stories during these two restorations. I am currently working with checkmate to get original information. I will send anything your way, if I get anything. Just let me know how to contact you.

can't believe I found another person starting the same project I am.

BShaw319 in Iowa

That's awsome! Please do keep me updated with what you find. I understand exactly what you mean by "rigged"! I've decided to completely gut everything inside and start from scatch. I am sure from what I am seeing in the bottom of the boat after ripping out the nasty carpet is that there looks to be two boxes for petistal seats and a bench seat that did not go completely across the back. I will be posting as many pictures as possible so you and others can view. It's only too bad that you are in Iowa and I'm in Ohio! I'll pass on anything I find out to you. Someone also stated the Checkmate forum which is a pretty good resource also.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Look here (and use the search function):

http://checkmate-boats.com/

Allso, the folks at Checkmate can be REALLY helpful on occassion (some are involved in the site above). I rebuilt a 1989 model and they still had the templates for the interior and built an original looking 3-color striped interior on composite unstead of wood... for less than I could have had someone local rebuild them... under $2k including replacement for all wood includingbench seats and new bucket seats, etc... Great company to work with in general and very well constructed boats for the price point, etc... I'd buy another in a heartbeat - used as a project, used in good shape or even new if I were in the market for that style of boat.

My question about the "core" is regarding the ballsa core which may or may not be below the layer of hull glass you're down to now. Apparently the construction switched in the mind 70's to end grained balsa cored hulls - I'm thinking yours may not have been built that way. These are generally very well built, hand laid hulls and the balsa coring contributes significant strength and rigidity, but if the core is breached it can also become saturated with water and rot... just like the stringers, etc... i've replaced the stringers and everything but the core in my 1989 model and have at every step been impressed with the quality of construction. It also handles water very well for a 17 1/2 foot boat. the trimates like yours will absolutely fly with a good sized outboard on them... like 70s, 80s, ++ if you're up for the pucker factor.


Great boat!

I'm all about the pucker factor. I have a jet ski that does 70 and my folks boat (25' Nordic Rage) does over 70 also. Getting this boat over 50 will make me happy and anything beyond that is just a bonus.

I haven't called Mike at Checkmate yet as I'm sure he'll get to hear from me soon enough. I might end up calling him later this week to ask some questions regarding this boat and find out if there is balsa core in the bottom. I'm still getting down to the base fiberglass. I've been removing old resin from the last "attempt" from the idiot who redid the floor in t-111 and still removing carpet glue. I do have one spot that I've found yesterday where after sanding a little water came up through through the pore of the fiberglass matt (it looked like it wasn't completely sealed to begin with) used in the bottom of the boat. I would say it's about the size of a dime or quarter. I'll try and post a picture when I get a chance later.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

My superviser

Just nasty

Close up of the transom

Finally gutted the rest of the mid section. Hey, I did finally find some foam...in the bow.

A look towards the transom...The wet mark is the spot I was talking about that had water coming up from what I guess would be the core.

Some sanding done and you can see where the original seat was in the front

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

What is the proper way to disconnect the steering from a '73 outboard?

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Gut looks like it went along smoothly, only one stringer to replace

 

[NSBCraig]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

The balsa core is the squares you can see through the glass from where your at inside.

Black in there is rot and should be repaired.

That's not really a stringer it's a floor support.


Nice boat glad to see more speed boat guys on here.
(check out scream and fly.com you'll find all kind of stuff on their forum)

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

That's not really a stringer it's a floor support.

Can you explain the difference between a stringer & floor support. I did notice that the wood inside the pic was not glassed in, besides that, what is the difference?

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Gut went fairly nice. There was only one stringer and it was completely rotted. I've been working on building a stand for the outboard and removing all connections from the motor to the boat. Tomorrow, I hope to remove the outboard off the back so I can start leveling and shoring up the boat then begin reworking the balsa core, transom and stringer.

It's probably overkill

As this is my first boat project, I'm no expert but a stringer is essentially a support for the fiberglass. It keeps the fiberglass from buckeling under stress. It also, but not always, also serves as a floor support. I'm thinking of running some cross bracing for the added support for the main stringer, fiberglass and floor. It really can't hurt anything except for top speed but I'd rather air on the side of caution and safety.

Do have a questions regarding glassing. For laminating the wood for the stringers, etc. and for glassing stuff in, what is the best stuff to use...polyester, epoxy or vinyl and any brand better then another that's fairly reasonable in price and ease to work with?

 

[keepNitreel]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Do have a questions regarding glassing. For laminating the wood for the stringers, etc. and for glassing stuff in, what is the best stuff to use...polyester, epoxy or vinyl and any brand better then another that's fairly reasonable in price and ease to work with?

That motor stand looks very beefy.

As far as resin goes, everyone agrees that epoxy is the strongest (not the cheapest) of the resins. From reading & research I've found that fiberglass boats are made from Polyester & I also noticed that poly & epoxy have that chevy/ford thing going on. However just because boats are made from poly doesn't mean that your particular application won't require epoxy. Being that your motor is so large most might advise you to use the epoxy for the added strength, I also hear epoxy is easier to work with and more forgiving.

One of the pros will chime in and advise you the best route to go.

BTW: thanks for droping in on my thread & fyi: I am using poly for my application.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Can you use epoxy resin over polyester resin and/or poyester resin over epoxy resin? As far as I know you can't gel coat over epoxy so I need to be careful for outside fixes regarding that factor since I want to "attempt" to re-gel.

As far as today, I did get the motor off with the help of my wife, a circular saw and a cable winch attached to a big beam in my garage. It still took approx. 5 hours to do (first time I've ever done it) and had minor complications. I had (2) 2x8's on my stand and it was too thick for the motor to sit on therefore the circular saw was used (on the wood stand). In addition, I mounted wheels onto the stand (which I wasn't going to do) and it raised the stand too tall so some modification was in order also. All in all, this was probably the hardest thing to prep and do since I'm not a real gearhead. Now I just got to remember where those bolts all go now.

Engine finally on the stand

The transom looks fairly rough. Pretty banged up and will probably require a lot of attention. The bolts holding the motor were about half corroded from rust. I was planning on redoing this anyways along with everthing thing else in this boat.

Transom

Up close of the gap at the transom

More transom

 

[NSBCraig]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Stringers are part of the strength of the hull, that hull is cored with balsa wood ( a sandwich of glass around wood ) it wont change shape without that piece of wood. It really just supports your weight when you walk on the little floor piece.

As for resin epoxy is the best, vinyl-ester is second then poly. Poly and vinyl-ester will not stick to epoxy. Poly is what your boat is made of, new boats like it are made of vinyl-ester. I'm using poly.

Check that transom the plate on it screams rot.

 

[bigredinohio]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Okay, I understand glassing...I think. Going to replace transom. It's approximately 84" x 20", give or take. I assume this is how I put the transom back in the boat using epoxy:

-Glue (2) 3/4" exterior grade plywood together
-Glass the the transom.

-Apply 1.5 oz mat to the outside skin,
-Bed transom in using a high density filler compound
-Fillet (round) all the corners using same h-d filler compound
-Apply 6" 17 oz double bias tape over all inside corners
-Apply glass 10-12" 24 oz double bias stitchmat over corners (or do I cover the whole transom also?)

Would this work for 17.4' boat with 150 hp. on a jackplate or should I change anything? The jackplate is an option I'm looking at so I don't have to worry about hole alignment.

Imput greatly appreciated

 

[NSBCraig]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

You should cover the whole transom too.

I used mat-cloth-mat-cloth on the inside of mine and mat in between the outer skin and transom.

You want to build enough of a skin over the transom so it won't get damaged again.

Most recommend two layers of 1708 which is the same as what I did with separate pieces.

While your at it build some knee braces and your be more than great with that motor and than some. (you could run a lot more)

I wish I was smart enough to put wheels on my motor stand.

 

[chrishayes]

Re: 1975 Checkmate V-Mate II Restore

Man, this is a cool boat you have here. Not to mention FAST! My 150 with 2 sour cylinders screamed on my 16.5'er that I gaurantee is WAY heavier than yours! You got a very nice boat there, we will have to get together sometime and go boating! Ill race you...