Replacing Bayliner Capri stringers/deck with pix

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Epoxy and supplies will be here Friday...
 

jcsercsa

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

very cool !!!! now you will start to see it all coming back together !!!! did you get the rollers with it ?? John
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I ordered one roller, a 3'' I think, then a corner roller, I guess. Should I have ordered more than one? I figured it clean be cleaned up with acetone after use
 

jcsercsa

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

OOoohhh man yep you should have , they are ruff to clean , i did the same thing , by the end of the glassing all the groves were full and it wouldent roll !!!

Ok i am getting ready to head out and do some more sanding on mine !!

when you get to glassing , and rolling the top of the stringer just keep at it , its a pain but when the epoxy starts to cure you can get the bubbles out !! dont get to far ahead of your self !!! or it will set up before you can get the bubbles out , cause when it strart to curer it does it perty fast !!! also get a bunch of glass cut ahead of time , I has my daught out there helping , she would hand the glass to mee !!

Ok have fun , take your time !!!! John

Ps did you also get a bunch of buckets ??
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I learned a few things from working my hard top project; try to finish an entire piece of glass rather than getting a piece half laid and running out of epoxy. Reason being where the last epoxy ends and the next batch starts, the glass never seems to lay well. I found it better to do smaller pieces of glass and overlap with the next piece rather than try to do large pieces.

I also pre-measured resin and hardner for 3 or 4 smaller batches in separate cups. That way, when the current batch started to kick, I could toss it, and just pour the pre-measured amounts together, stir for two minutes, and continue working. While stirring, the brush, spreaders and other tools were dropped in a pan of alcohol. That kept the rollers fresh, the paint brushes fresh, and none of the tools hardened up between batches.

When pre-cutting pieces, a permanent marker came in handy to mark the glass where corners were to be cut, edges to line up, etc. I would mark a few lines from the glass onto the top so it was easy to line up the pre-cut pieces exactly were they were to go. Makes everything easier when your gloves are sticky and covered with glass fibers.

And be sure to mix well. If you can see swirls in the batch of epoxy, its probably not mixed well enough. And scrape the sides and bottom well so all the contents are mixed. Nothing worse than spots where the epoxy will not harden because it wasn't mixed well.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmm...when overlapping different pieces of fiberglass (same layer but in smaller pieces), how much overlap does there need to be?
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmm...when overlapping different pieces of fiberglass (same layer but in smaller pieces), how much overlap does there need to be?

I did anywhere from 2" in low-stress areas to 6" in high-stressed areas. That was with the 1708 biax and epoxy. But that was just my guess-timating. Seems to have worked well.

BTW, I found that sometimes I had more epoxy mixed than I needed for that work session. Plan on having things around to use the extra epoxy on. Like shovel or ax handles to help waterproof them, etc. Better to use the epoxy than let it harden in the cup.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I had to work Friday night and all day on Saturday, so it took me until today to get to it; nevertheless, I've got my stringers and crossmembers (except the front one yet), engine mounts, and transom epoxy-ed in. Also glassed in the transom and addressed the three holes I accidentally cut with the grinder.

Is one layer of fabric (18 oz) good enough for the transom? I figure since this is an I/O there isn't any stress being put on it from the engine/sterndrive BUT I also figure that the stringers and engine mounts attach to it, spreading out the power load.

For the stringers, in addition to the scarf I put a 3/4'' "scab" on both sides to attach to two pieces.

Cleaned off my rollers and scissors in acetone.

So far I've used about 1.5 gallons of epoxy (3-1)

Did I do good? :D This fiberglassing is a little difficult having to be bent over and crawling in/out of the hull often for more epoxy but it isn't too bad of a job.

When I get out of work tomorrow I'll be applying the fabric to the stringers.
 

jcsercsa

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Hay , I would think even with a I/O you would need two layier of glass on the , I will just make it more water proof at the least !!!

Wheres the pics ??? Lol john
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmm I can do that.

lol you'll get pix, just didn't feel like getting epoxy on my Canon
 

jcsercsa

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmm I can do that.

lol you'll get pix, just didn't feel like getting epoxy on my Canon

yea I hear that allways take my pics after i clean up !! John
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

l_5bcdf156cece4715afc4028ce1a91bc4.jpg


l_d175ab1e62b2473588778db2ea42ec99.jpg


l_63c8696529d64b8899a27b931d9d3b73.jpg


I will be putting another layer over the transom

l_c7d6a824b9cc48f48b830892a8cdbea1.jpg


3 layers over the "left" mount up to the bulkhead, 1 over the center/front (will get 1-2 more). 1 layer on the bulkhead, will get 1-2 more

l_cbeb6cf5338e4fab8c4b64d6a057c302.jpg


closeup...I think I'm doing it right

l_8606568036f34b0596d8648b392e4909.jpg


I forgot about the possibility of the tank not fitting with the "scab" also on the inside of the stringers. I'm thinking I may have to sand it down...from my measurements the tank will clear, barely, but won't when I add glass to it
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Finished up the right mount tonight.

It isn't absolutely critical that the fabric be bonded entirely to the wood, is it? I've found little gaps here and there, not widespread though. I did note that there was a lot of gap-age between the fabric/glass and the wood with the original Bayliner job
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

My mom has begun redoing the vinyl for the seats. I found one side panel to be rotten and so I've cut a new one out of 1/2 marine ply. I'm waiting for the glass to set up on it (longer than 8') and then that can be redone too.

I've put the first layer on the front bulkhead, 2nd layer on the right stringer, and 1st layer on the left stringer...can someone refresh me on my port/starboard terminology?

I've got about a gallon and a quarter of epoxy left...started out with 5. Will be placing another order with US Composites on at least another 2 gallons
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

and another thing...did my vessel come with any access hatches of any sort? Do I need any? I got thinking that it wouldn't be a bad thing to have vents, not unlike household heat register vents, like under the cushions of the cuddy and in the engine compartment to allow the areas under the deck to air out. Any logic in this?
 

bear_69cuda

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Great work dude!

Port is left side and starboard is right as you are driving the boat looking forward.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Today I put the 3rd layer on the starboard (thanks) stringer and 1st layer on the 2nd bulkhead. I haven't started on the stringers in the cabin though, will be soon.

100 yards (overkill i know but it was cheap) of 1.5 oz fabric came in the other day for my deck. I plan on doing both the top on bottom, probably two layers on the top side.

I may go with snap in carpet, haven't made up my mind yet.

Am getting low on epoxy with less than a gallon left. I may have to give my income a week to catch up before placing another order on 2-3 more gallons
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I'll get some new pix soon, but I've got down the three layers on the stringers-back from the cabin. Will add a little reinforcement to the bulkheads and some more to the transom but otherwise I'm done there.

Ordered two more gallons of medium-set epoxy from US Composites.

Will be apply the glass to the stringers inside the cabin in the next few days.

So far I've gone through 200 rubber gloves (replace them pretty often, like every time I get out of the boat and mix more epoxy). DON'T buy the Stanley rubber gloves from home depot...damn things get holes left and right but the ones from Lowes hold up well, can't remember the brand at the moment.

I figured out that instead of letting the excess just run into the bilge, I can brush a lot of it back up :D Wouldn't hurt anything back there but hey I bought that stuff lol. Also have been saving acetone in a covered tray instead of disposing of it every session. Need to pick up another gallon.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner Capri stringers/deck with pix

A piece of fabric, the 3rd layer on one of the stringers, seems to have bubbled up and formed an empty pocket (like my pockets!) between it and the two layers under it. It's pretty big and bothers me so I'm going to cut off that defective piece with a dremel and redo it. Shouldn't take long.

I've found that a lot of the time spent doing this is squeezing out excess epoxy. One want's to get out all the excess, right? It's wet out really well but it doesn't seem right to have pockets of resin under the glass. I might do a couple passes with the roller but I do it mostly by hand, and revisit it after letting it sit for a few minutes.

Otherwise I think things are going well. Will still get new pix soon
 

ondarvr

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Re: Replacing Bayliner Capri stringers/deck with pix

This may be a little late, but you can put down more than one layer of glass at a time, most of the time you can put all three on at once. The lower the temperature, the more glass you can put on at a time.
 
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