Replacing Bayliner Capri stringers/deck with pix

[jcsercsa]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Anyone work with uscomposites.com?

hay F14 , I use US Composites , there great, great prices , they even called me when i missed up , I ordered thick epoxy and they called and asked if i was useing it to wet out my glass and told then yes , they said it was to thick and it wouldnt work, they told me he was sending me the thin set !! now i dont know to many places that would do that any more !! John

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I'll give one or the other a call soon

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I'm back working at my project! I recently made a post regarding how much fabric I need and figured I'd link it

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=283428&highlight=fabric+oz+stringers

Could I get a consensus that two layers of 18 oz fabric w/ epoxy over my stringers, crossmembers, transom, and maybe 3 layers on the motor mounts will be sufficient? And maybe two layers of like 6 oz over the deck? I don't want to doubt anyone's opinions at all and I respect everyone here but this is a big job I don't want to F up

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I've been sticking at it. This is how far I am as of tonight

I'm going to cut a couple chunks to makeup the gap between the front of the 4x4'' mounts and the bulkhead (that what you call it?)/crossmember, stringer, whatever it is

I've been working under its carport but will bring it into the heated garage when I get ready to do the glassing. The white powder you see is probably snow, not fiberglass.

Any tips, pointers, suggestions, negative or positive comments? I've never worked on a boat before but I think I've got the idea right. Transom and crossmembers are 1/2'' marine, stringers are 23/32'' (or whatever it is) exterior ply, and the 4x4''s are pressure treated. I have a 2x6'' all set for the front mount (not pictured). All will be good and dry before glassing.

Thanks guys

 

[oops!]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

uh.....14........


the hull and interior is looking really good....

but....uh........i thought that was an i/o.....not an air boat !

i dont think that fan is going to push a hull that size.....besides.....what happens when you run out of extension cord?

 

[NoKlu]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

uh.....what happens when you run out of extension cord?

oops! thats one of the Blondest questions I've ever heard hahaha! You run a small generator to power the fan. If you have any problems pushing that thing just post the specs on that fan in the prop thread and they'll get it flyin!

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

engage the afterburner

even with a good respirator and a suit on I hate dust and I've found the fan helps a lot

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

The original cabin door and panels are still solid but are just weathered. They seem to be made of veneered wood...can I sand and re-stain them?

 

[maxum247]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Don't see why not, just use care that you don't burn through the veneered surface when sanding. You may want to start with finer grit sandpaper like 120 grit until you get the feel for it, coarser grits would tend to be less forgiving and may burn thru the surface faster. max

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

thanks Maxum...

What fabric do you guys suggest for my deck? Like 6-8 oz? two layers? And how about like the engine compartment and seat boxes?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Looks really great! Nice work so far. I suggest that the bulkheads have a large cutout where they meet the keel so water will easily drain to the bilge. Something along the line of 3" radius half circle should do the trick.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I intend of putting back 3/4'' pvc pipe there as it came from the factory...is that what you're speaking of?

 

[Mark42]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I intend of putting back 3/4'' pvc pipe there as it came from the factory...is that what you're speaking of?

Yes, but I would be afraid that a 3/4" pipe could clog up fairly easy. A nice size hole, even the size of a tennis ball, would ensure that water drains freely and will not clog. And the PVC pipe is not adding any strength. Its too little and too weak at that size.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmmm...I guess in that case should I not use a pipe at all and just have cut outs? I personally feel the pipe won't clog but free movement is good.

BTW the 18 oz fabric from ebay arrived today. While I don't yet have epoxy I might start sizing it up tomorrow

 

[Mark42]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

hmmm...I guess in that case should I not use a pipe at all and just have cut outs? I personally feel the pipe won't clog but free movement is good.

BTW the 18 oz fabric from ebay arrived today. While I don't yet have epoxy I might start sizing it up tomorrow

Especially do a cutout in the stringer where a bulkhead crosses it. You don't want to leave any corners where water can pool and keep it nice and humid underneath.

Can't hurt to start pre-fitting the glass. Is the fabric 1807 biax/mat or 18oz weave? Either way, I think that one layer of glass on those stringers is all you really need to seal them up. You can start cutting the pieces, and mark them with a permanent marker with arrows and numbers for placement. Write the matching number on the joist where it goes. A "sharpie" marker writes on glass cloth very well. But it will bleed once the epoxy is applied, so don't write anything you need to read later!

And those "scarf" joints you made need at least one piece of plywood epoxied and screwed in place to cover the joint for strength. ( the screws are just to hold it until the epoxy sets) It doesn't have to be pretty, just strong.

Also, if you have a router, get a round over bit half the thickness of the plywood and run it down both sides of all the pieces. That will make a nice rounded top that the 18oz will fold over nicely. Glass does not like to conform to sharp corners.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

yup, I actually started cutting some fabric today. It's regular 18 oz.

I'll be using 3 layers over the stringers but you say 1 should be enough to seal it...but doesn't the structure need more?

And yup, I can put on a "scab" at the scarf

The drain hole thing makes sense

 

[Mark42]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

yup, I actually started cutting some fabric today. It's regular 18 oz.

I'll be using 3 layers over the stringers but you say 1 should be enough to seal it...but doesn't the structure need more?

And yup, I can put on a "scab" at the scarf

The drain hole thing makes sense

As long as what you are putting in is at least the same structure that the factory installed, it will be strong enough, and because you are completely encapsulating the stringers and allowing for water drainage, the boat will last much longer than it did from the factory. I have seen quite a few restorations on this and other forums, and most folks seriously over build their boats. If there was one layer, one will satisfy the structural needs of the boat. If there were three, then you should do three. If there was one, and you three, then I feel that there is some wasted time and money. Consider how long you plan to own the boat, and build it accordingly.

BTW, for some reason, I had to round over outside corners to get the glass to wrap around nice without pulling away. But I had no problems with inside corners. Maybe because I went over everything just as the epoxy is starting to set and press the glass into the corner, and then it stays.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I'm just thinking, since the original stringer encapsulation was about 3/16'' thick (1/4'' on top) that I need about 3 layers, but then again I haven't done this before and don't know how thick the 18 oz and epoxy will be

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I did this before Christmas...

I'll be ordering a few gallons of epoxy to start out when I soon get another head of cash

 

[F14CRAZY]

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

TONIGHT I moved the Capri into the heated area of our barn where its currently around 50f. In the next few days I'll raise the temp up a bit along with adding my box fan and dehumidifer...think 65f is good enough for medium epoxy?

And also I just submitted my order to US Composites...got 5 gallons of epoxy, 10 yards of 2 oz CSM for the decking and stuff, some epoxy thickening junk, stir sticks, rollers, etc for the project so I should be glassing later this week