Replacing Bayliner Capri stringers/deck with pix

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

14 you can use what ever combination to get to the size you want.....2x 3/4 with a half inch shoved between......or whatever you choose.

you can use stainless screws to hold them togeather....but i like to laminate with poly and matt....

search laminating there is several different ways......erik greens unintentional stringer job is a fantastic toturial of what he did....he used a cabosil wood flour peanut butter mix......his job is first class
 

rngale

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 24, 2008
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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

As far as support goes u need to keep the shape of the hull stable when removing/installing stringers, if on the trailer, you could block it where ever possible. if not i might suggest building a cradle out of demension lumber that fits the hull length wise and laterally before removing stringers. When building our new boats we use regular kiln dried lumber for the stingers, the difference is we "hot coat them first" meaning coating with resin after being scribed to fit and let them cure. then they are beaded in hull and deck putty before lamination to the hull. Hull and deck putty is resin milled fiberglass witha like bit of glass bubble(cabosil) miked together, using a rounded putty knife to shape a radius so the glass with bend without leaving an air pocket. Any holes put in the stringers during installation of other parts (ie engine) are sealed. This is what we do with everything form the 22 footer to the 65 footer
 

redeye1962

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 6, 2008
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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

I love the discussion of PT vs other plys. It is like the question of how many licks does it take to get to the center of a Tootsie pop. I must say from my little experience, I placed a PT deck with no protection onto an aluminum boat and now I am replacing everything the aluminum seems alright and the underside of the deck looks good. That was 15 years ago and the boat has been sitting uncovered under an oak tree for 10 years. Now I am replacing with PT and covering in fiber resin hoping it will last longer.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

So, like "kiln dried" lumber you used as stringers...that could be a common 2x4 wall stud? "Hot coating" before installing them seems like a good idea.

"Dimensional" lumber is like a common 2x4 stud versus plywood, right? Sorry I'm not familiar with the term.

I know there's a lot of right ways I can go with this project, I just don't want to go a bad way.

Would I be okay using something kiln dried for the stringers or should I go with laminating plywood to make my own engineered beam?

And, you guys suppose that supporting the hull in this fashion would be okay? Excuse my not to scale, exaggerated drawing lol

Scan30001_xl.jpg
 

rngale

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Aug 24, 2008
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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

it would be dest if u can support the boat right under the existing stringers. As you begin to pull the stringers out check to make sure the hull isnt moving by measureing from a fixed point to the bottom of the hull in several places.

Laminating your own stringers is fine also. Just remember to hot coat everything before laminating them together. If you know someone with a vaccuum bag, that would be a great way to laminate them together.

If not screws and clamps work. You can always take the screws back out after laminating them together and fill the holes before installation as well.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Makes sense...but how about what type of wood to use for my stringers?
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

FYI, over the years reading many stringer/floor jobs on this forum, I can tell you that most members just wrapped rope around the hull in 3 or 4 places and tightened it to keep the sides from bowing out or they put some wood scraps across the gunnels and screwed them down. These methods were used on smaller boats (under 20 feet or so) on the trailer. No one posted that their hulls came out warped.

I can tell you that a few members did not tie the hull, and especially on bow riders, the dash/windshield did not go back without a lot of adjustment.

You are working with a Cuddy Cabin, and I assume that you are not taking the cap off. That alone will hold a majority of the fore section stable. I think some 1x3 screwed across the gunnels before removing the floor and stringers would be more than sufficient to hold the boats shape while you work on it.

Search the forums, and read shareaproject.com in the boats section. You will find most restorers don't even bother to tie the boat and don't report problems.

I strongly suggest you at least tie the boat to keep the gunnels from spreading while you measure and lay the new stringers and floor.

Mgale is right about blocking, especially on the larger boats he works on, but I think you will be fine with either of the methods I listed above.

Just my $.02
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Thanks for the insight again. Lowes gave me a quote of $55.64/sheet of 1/2x4'x8' so I'm going to place an order. I think 3-4 should do it, right?
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

the the desk was closed at Lowes...will order tomorrow.

You guys think the West System stuff is good? Maybe expensive but its not a bad way to go right?

and Mark42: I have several like 20' nylon ratcheting tie down straps, semi-truck grade. I'm thinking they'll be good for keeping my hull in shape. My dad is awesome at just tying knots in rope while keeping tension on them but not me
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Those straps should work quite well. It is a good idea to take some measurements before tearing it all apart, if you haven't already.

Also, it will be kind of dangerous to wrap a strap over the side glass and tighten it all up. I think you should pull the black rubber strip off the side glass at the bottom (save it) and then you have access to the aluminum screws holding the glass on. Just remove the screws on the side windows, and you should be able to lift the glass enough to slide the strap under it. That way, there will be no stress on the glass/frames and you won't have to worry about breaking them. Might want to put the screws back in loose, so the glass can't be knocked off the side of the gunnes by accident. BTW, where the side glass meets the front windshield the connection is like a hinge. It moves in and out really easy, so I can see how the glass could be knocked off the gunnel with no trouble at all.

I think real problems are encountered when the cap is removed from the boat, then the hull has no structural integrity at all. Being yours is a cuddy, that cap is big, the gunnels are high so the integrity of the structure has not been compromised very much.

It would be wise to check the hull from the outside after removing deck and stringers to see if it bows where it sits on the bunks.

I don't know how practical this idea is, but if your remove and replace one stringer at a time, it should have a lesser impact on the hull.

BTW, the seat bases are filled with flotation foam. I am interested in knowing if your bases are full of water logged foam or if the foam is dry. Being that they are above deck, they should not get water. Just currious.

Good luck, and post some pics!
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

I was wondering how you plan on replacing the floor in the cuddy cabin. The doors to the cabin and the bulk head under the helm just unbolt (thats how they are attached in my Bayliner CC).

Wondering about the seat bases, and V birth in the cabin:

- Are you planning on removing the base of the V birth and floor section between them? Or are you going to stop where the access door in the floor is in front of the V birth?

- How about in the aft section. There are probably two boxed in areas above deck covered in carpet up against the transom. Maybe in your boat these are jump seats. In my B-liner these are also just for flotation foam. Are you going to have to pull them out to remove any floor under them?

- Are you going to pull the motor to replace the stringers? I would think its mandatory.

Regards,

Mark
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Mark: I took your advice and removed the side glass so I could add a ratchet strap there.

I've been hacking away inside the hull yesterday and today...

The left and right front seat bases weren't water logged but the plywood underneath them was. The foam was pretty wet though...I found an ant colony in there I hadn't seen before :(

I've removed the cabin doors and plan to remove the bulkhead to redo the wood inside the cabin.

Really its all shot. Along the bottom of the engine enclosure, like where the jump seats are the the cupholders, the bottom of the vertical pieces was rotten, the flooring of all of it is shot, the stringers around the engine are shot...I was hoping I wouldn't have to but I'm going to be pulling the engine. I figure if I stand the tongue of the trailer up on a ladder the motor should be low enough that I can lift it out with the backhoe. Sterndrive removal looks easy in the Clymer's manual

The foam everywhere is wet. A lot of the time it'll gush out when I stab it with the crowbar.

How do you get the fuel tank out? It's mostly empty and I've cut away all the fiberglass I can see from the top.

I've taken photos and will soon post when I get around to it. I have access to a good-sized commercial dumpster which has come in handy for all this rotten sheeeit
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Sterndrive has been removed...was a lot easier than I thought it would be an though it is aluminum, a lot lighter than I figured too.

I should have the engine out tomorrow. I'll be cutting out the rest of the flooring in the engine area and inspecting the transom and engine mounts...I think and hope the transom is okay
 

hemidoc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 14, 2008
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Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner cuddy flooring

Sterndrive has been removed...was a lot easier than I thought it would be an though it is aluminum, a lot lighter than I figured too.

I should have the engine out tomorrow. I'll be cutting out the rest of the flooring in the engine area and inspecting the transom and engine mounts...I think and hope the transom is okay

Be strong you for the force is with you. Many have come before you only to give up in failure. However you have come further than they had imagined. The b-liners once given up for scrap can live once again. Yoda's cousin

it'll be worth it get us some pics when you get er going
 

Mark42

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

You could save some time and money in the cabin area by replacing the rotten v-birth supporting structures with 1/2" pressure treated ply. Then paint with an oil base paint. The wood in the cuddy should not get wet and really doesn't need glassing. Those structures in my cabin are gel coated and carpeted. Skip the carpet. And make the floor where the port-a-pottie sits be a lift up panel so you can easily see if water is below the floor. On my cuddy, there is an inpection plate in the floor of the cabin, and it appears to be open from the very front of the bow all the way back to the transom drain. Be sure you have a clear opening so any water draining to the keel will run back to the bilge and be pumped out or drained throught the transom plug.
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

I don't give up on projects :cool: With my other vehicles I've had it worse...

Mark: that's pretty cool that I don't really have to fiberglass up in the cabin. I guess the small amount of rot and wet foam was due to the anchor hook being loose and leaking (I know for certain that it was). That'll make things a lot easier. I guess I still need to fiberglass the panels to the hull and all but yeah
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring

The floor pix are actually from a couple days ago. I've got quite a bit more of it out and cleaned up since then. And the engine/intermediate housing came out today. It was that bad of a job at all...much easier than pulling the engine/trans from my Buick

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I will be inspecting the transom and messing around with the rear stringers and engine mounts (taking measurements of it all first though).
 

F14CRAZY

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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I got some stuff done today. I didn't have the camera so sry, no pix this time but the adventure isn't over yet.

I took some good measurements of the motor mounts and all that back there and proceeded to cut out the stringer and mounts for the right side (port, right?). The wood in there is not like mulch but very wet...press your thumb into it and it'll squeeze water out. I crowbar-ed out the foam in that area and there was a pool of water left. I'm going to leave the left side intact so in case my diagrams don't work I have a good model to work from.

Lowes called and said my plywood has arrived so I'll be picking that up soon. I spose I'll have to get a slice of 3/4'' for the transom and stringers. The transom seems okay but I could tell it was wet from where the engine mount was...I don't want to take the chance of it giving me problems so I'll be replacing it as well
 

F14CRAZY

Ensign
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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

I'm assuming I should have drainage between each compartment under the floor to the bilge, correct?

Should I be putting air vent grates, bilge blowers, etc to let air flow underneath? I'll be reading old posts though on this subject...
 

Nova II 260

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 27, 2006
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Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

Re: Replacing Bayliner flooring (w/ pix)

F14: Welcome to iBoats. I haven't posted for a while.. spent time traveling and on the water this summer.
You're on the right track and with the knowledge here on iBoats, you're well supported. I (and many others) have been where you are now. My page may have some interesting points for you. My cheap purchase and Saturated Cuddy I know I will never go through that crap ever again and do not envy you at all. Read lot's of threads on rebuilds here and on other forums.i.e. Bayliner forum
Take lot's of pics and document your progress. Also, it would be interesting to keep a running account (and post it) of what you spend on the rebuild from beginning to end. I did not finish mine but, I do salute those that did finish. There are some excellent rebuilds out there.. Hang in there.
 
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