Should I remove the fuel tank?

[lmannyr]

The only large piece left to take out of the boat is the fuel tank. Is there any reason why I should take this tank out? It's aluminum, so there shouldn't be any corrosion. Or should I take it out to check the hull and pressure test the tank out of the boat?

I'm totally lost with this one really.

Thanks

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

you are in a salt water environment. take it out, test it. electrolysis can eat an aluminum tank. if questionable, go back with a poly tank.

 

[lmannyr]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

I searched but couldn't find anything specific on how to test the tank. Could someone link me to an informative thread or explain..

Thanks!!!

 

[oops!]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

i dont boat in salt...so i may not be much help here.....

but rule of thumb.....when in doubt......make sure....

id pressure test it.....others here may have a lot better ideas on how to make it stronger....

im just going to replace mine...it has been repaired three times......so its goin...

hope that helped..

cheers
oops

 

[lmannyr]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

Here are the specs. iboats doesn't have a tank this size.

65 Gallons.
70X12X18

There are no obvious repairs. I'm still trying to figure out how to leak test the tank.

After some searching online, I am going to try the Manometer method. I'll post back when I complete the test.

Here is another question, do I have to set the tank back onto a piece of plywood or can it sit on the stringers. Whoever install this tank never sealed it. It was rotted in many areas. I seal some plywood to sit it on like it was....just asking.

See pics.

 

[fixb52s]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

I am in the same boat as you (no pun intended). I was looking at leaving my 22 gal tank in, but pumped it out (into the old minivan) and removed it. I too thought the tank was good, but upon further inspection, found at least 6 pinholes on the top after cleaning it up. I plan to find a shop that can test/repair it if I cannot find a poly tank.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

It's aluminum, so there shouldn't be any corrosion.

Ayuh,......

Because it's Aluminum, It's probably Rotten.......

Pull it out,+ pressurize it to 5psi,+ check it with soapy water.....
If you Don't find any leaks,.....
Closely inspect it Visually,.... If you find ANY Pitting,.... It's gonna leak there at some point,....
Replace it...... Atleast you have the phone # of the original manufacturer.....

 

[cindalyn]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

Pull it, brush is hard with a wire brush then POUND it with the wire brush brissels. This will find hidden holes, and thin pits that are eventually going to leak. If this doesn't uncover any problems and the tank appears to be solid you MAY be OK. If you are suspicious in ANYway have it pressure tested.

I believe the USCG requires manufacturers to test fuel SYSTEMS to 3 PSI. Do a search on USCG fuel system pressure test requirements and you may find the site information I read recently. Sorry I didn't make note of the site.

The 33 gal. tank on the used 1993 boat that I purchased was completely dry. There was absolutely no smell of gasoline. Because I was curious I pulled the tank, did what I noted above and found 17 pin holes. I'm now waiting for a new tank to be delivered. The aluminum tank, shipping and new hoses will be about $500.

 

[Bill Adkins]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

I live in So Cal, here we would take it to an automotive radiator shop. They have tested and repaired tanks many times. You could fill it with water, put a plug on the neck and turn it uprite. You could again plug the filler neck, fabricate an adapter and shoot a small amount of freon or R 134 into it and test it with a leak detector. A radiator pressure tester should be easy to rig also. I recently retired from the automotive repair busness after 38 yrs, should be a relatively easy thing to determine.
Bill

 

[reelfishin]

Re: Should I remove the fuel tank?

Pay special attention to the areas around the filler neck and gauge sender, they tend to be where pitting is the worst. Not only does saltwater cause corrosion but so do many solvents and cleaners that may have washed down there over the years. I just pulled a 50 gallon center mounted tank from a Welcraft, it looked like new but was badly pitted where the fuel filler gasket contacted the tank. I ended up having to replace both the filler neck tube and the section around the sender. I tig welded in new metal which was much thicker than the original tank. They had the sender held into .020" aluminum with plain steel sheet metal screws. I used 1/8" aluminum plate and a piece or 2" .25" wall tubing for the fuel fill neck. I'll be old and gray by the time the patch ever corrodes. I also painted the tank after pressure testing the repair. I prepped the whole tank and epoxy painted it with some paint I had left over. I also painted the entire installed tank sender and area with some insulating paint to preserve the sender and that area even better. I reinstalled it, foamed it in place and relaid the floor.
I'll be old and gray before I have to deal with that one again. I actually ended up selling that boat over the winter, but plan to do the same with my other boat when the time arrives.