Transom Removal with a splash well

[all yeah boy]

I am restoring a 1973 15' Crestliner Muskie (65 hp Merc outboard). When I got the thing the floor had holes in so I ripped the floor out. Found rotted stringers, ripped them out. Then took the soaked foam out (there was a nice mouse nest in the foam!!) Then after reading lots of posts, decided to test drill some holes in the transom. It was rotted as well..

So I got the outboard motor off. Now I need to attack the transom. The boat has a splash well that extends about 1.5 forward from the transom. I looked on the site for pics of how to cut out the splash well and get at the transom. Anyone have any suggestions on cutting it off so that install is simpliest??? Pictures would really help for this if possible.

Should I try and leave the back of the boat intact? I think it would be wise, but fear that the person before me drilled enough stuff into it that it may be comprimised as well. Maybe I could leave it and just patch repair it?

 

[onenomad]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

I don't know how your splash well was mfg/installed, but mine was molded in one piece and stuck to the transom with resin/mat. I was able to remove it in one piece. Sorry, I don't have any pics of that, but if it would be of any help, I can take a couple and include them tomorrow. Let me know if that would be of help to you.
Gerry

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

The splash well and hull seem be 1 continous piece of fiberglass. I am thinking I need to cut about 360 degrees, starting from behind the splash well working towards the transom, then cutting the interior.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

either that or remove the complete top cap, remove rub rail, and there are screws or rivets holding the top and hull together.

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

Wow, I never realized that the top cap and the hull were joined together under the rub rail! I will try taking that off tomorrow, and see what is under neath!

It still seems like I will need to make a cut or should I pull the whole cap off?

 

[redfury]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

There is another way. It involves cutting a slot out from splashwell directly above the transom, the width of the transom and removing it that way. Do a google search for "seacast". You'll find a lot of articles and videos on how to remove the transom. Seacast is a "pourable" transom that is permanent. It's expensive( material ), but you'll never do it again.

You can remove the cap, remove the old transom, replace it and put the cap back on, but it is a bit of a chore to remove a cap. It all is really dependent on your skill and room to work.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

check this out, good stuff.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=206019

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

I am not sure the seacast will work so well, the fiberglass on the interior side of the transom is pretty shot. I think I am going to pull the cap off. Any tips for removing the rubber part of the rail? I saw one post saying to use a heat gun.

Can you reinstall the same rubber that i will be removeing, or will I most likely need to purchase a new one?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

i have reused mine. store it as flat as you can.. then before reinstalling lay it out in the sun so it can heat up. find the end, slip a small screw driver under it and it will pop out, then pull gently. it is a basic wedge compression fit.

 

[BillP]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

I cut the splashwell out with a sabre saw, glassed in a new transom and glassed the spashwell back in. The cut lines were easy to fill and hide. It was fast and easy compared to taking the deck off.

 

[oops!]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

billp....that a neat way to do it......

tashasdaddy suggested the generally accepted way to do it....and hes the expert on the site imho.......its not that hard....

im not framilliar with crestliner setups.....

may i suggest that before you remove the cap....pull off a corner brace....

there is two types of hull cap joints....one is a "shoe box joint"....where the cap fits over the hull .....like a shoe box...!

the other is a flange joint....if you have a flange joint....try billp 's way.....

the flange joint has a layer of glass around the inside and is a pita.

cheers
oops

 

[all yeah boy]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

Should have looked back at the site sooner....... Anyway, I pulled some of the rub rail off and this is what is underneith (see pic). I think the staples that hold the top cap and the hull together act as guides for the rub rail installation. Plus the fiberglass for the top and bottom sections is wicked cracked in places, so I am thinking that I do not want to remove the cap and rather make the cuts (ugh!).

If I go and pull the cap, I think I am going to have a heck of a time getting the rails back on. It looks like once I pull the staples I will need to add new glass for purchase for new staples to guide the rails. My glass work ability is not the best (have done some jobs) so I am hesitant.

My thought on cutting out the splash well, will the newly glassed in splash well have enough structral integrity to hold the motor? I am guessing it will as the motor is also bolted on through the transom.

 

[oops!]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

the cap also most likely has a layer of glass around the joint on the inside.


as far as the integrity......make it strong enough....and know it will hold

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

Re: Transom Removal with a splash well

hi guys first post great forum lots of ideas
i,m rebuilding a 1966 Crestliner Mustang 14' and this looks like the start of my project my floor; transom and seat boxes were all rotten
bala core floor and ply trans. so i pulled all rub rail and hundreds of staples to lift off the [deck] top to make work eaiser
i didn't want to cut /repair gel coat any more then i had to ....seemed like a good idea at the time
no glue,glass,rivets or screws holding just staples
the rub rails look to be crimped after staples instaled and came off hard lots of careful prying and a few Alexander Keith's some staples tore out
i plan on lots of 4200fast to join when done and ss machine screws with tapered heads[backing plates inside] hidden behind rubber strips to hold rub rail to sides
i,ve replaced the balsa with h80 foam and the ply with cossa blue water26# my boat was Canadian made and used air chambers under seats and bow no foam

again great forum wish i found sooner
BOYS & TOYS