floor and transom removal progress and ?

Ezrider_92356

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a skill saw seemed to be the easyest tool to use for ripping out the floor still got some clean up to do however.

now my qestion comes as far as removing the transom. the upper deck is glassed to the hull and the top of the transom is has 2 ears for lack of a better word about 6 inches wide by about 4 inches tall that go into the upper deck, and is glassed to the upper deck. how would you go about cutting it free theres mot enough room to work in there
 

tashasdaddy

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

angle grinder, tip of a electric chain saw. sawzall.
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

got some more work done today only had a couple hours to work on it but had to cause it was in the 40's the snow was melting and the sun was shinning i couldent stay inside while it sat out there. so i cut the rest of the floor out then set the depth on my skill saw and ripped the outside of the floor out about an inch from where it meats the hull and started taking off the rest of the inner skin on the transom

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Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

also the stringers apear to be made out of 1x6 lumber was thinking it would probably be better to replace it with the same thing. or maby 2 by 6 for the keel and 1x6 for the 2 outter stringers. i assume lumber is better than ply?
 

rockyrude

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

Pywood is actually far stronger than solid because of the alternating grains. If you measure one of the old stringers you'll find it's really 3/4" anyway. I use ply any chance I can.
 

oops!

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

man that looks framilliar !!!!:D

hows yer back? and hows the itch?

i agree use ply for the strings.

i got lucky and my transom came out in one big peice, mostly....except for the rotted part.....the chain saw is a good idea. just be careful with it. other than that its a hammer and chisel!

good work

oops
 

jcsercsa

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

hay EZrider ,looks good , and I agree plywood is a lot stronger, I was going to use wood till I go smart and mesured once then cut !!!!! @#&$&*^&@# yea right measure twice cut once !!!! good luck and have fun John
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

im sure the orgional stringers are not ply. there are places they are not fully glassed acualy alot of places. of course the boat is eather an 1958 or 1959 im sure they did things differntly and not nessisarly for the best. but it dose seem that solid lumber would be less supsestiple to rot?

im hoping that i can get the transom out in one piece but i kind of doubt that will happen some areas i can push a screwdriver right into the wood. the stringers shouldent be hard to get out in one piece to make a template. cutting the new floor will be a challenge as i took it out in meany small peices. rather than one big peice i could make a template out of, i will probably take multiple mesurments at say 1 foot intervalls and transfer the mesurments onto a peice of ply cut it. unless someone has any other suggestions.

as far as the top corners on the transom it looks like i can get all but a few inches of it in the corners with the grinder a sharp chizzle and hammer sounds like probabbly the best way to go.

my back is sore my arms are sore and im randomly itching in various differnet places but not too bad. i dident have any kind of barrier cream so i rubbed some vegitable oil on my exposed skin, not like where i was shinning but just enough to basicly clog my pours...lol seemed to work pretty good.

here is what the inside of my boat looked like before i started ripping into it, i currently have a 4-5 ft high pile of **** i have ripped outta the inside

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slia67

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

Boy that looks familiar.


cutting the new floor will be a challenge as i took it out in meany small peices. rather than one big peice i could make a template out of, i will probably take multiple mesurments at say 1 foot intervalls and transfer the mesurments onto a peice of ply cut it. unless someone has any other suggestions.


When you get ready to cut your floor, make a template out of cardboard then you can transfer it to your plywood. Large appliance boxes work well.


Doug
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

well i finnished ginding out where the innerskin meets hull but having trouble getting the wood out of the transom iv tryed prying and pulling and cursing iv got it partialy sperated but i cant get the rest of the way any sujestions
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

thanks for the tip with the cardboard, im surpised i dident think of that i have used cardboard templates in the past on other projects
 

jmills224

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

EZ,

If you can't wrangle up enough cardboard, 30# roofing felt works great too.
 

Coors

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

You can get , from hardware store, composite(plastic) 1x6.
Wrap with cloth and epoxy- stronger than it was.
 

External Combustion

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

Just a personal opinion here, but it is based on not only my experience, but that of many commercial designers and builders. Plywood is not stonger than natural growth wood. I know this flys in the face of many, but just check out the studies done by the National Forestry Association. I will check my notes and post some references in the next few days.

It is true that plywood is "stiffer" in some directions than natural growth wood, but the ultimate yeild strength is not higher unless the bonding adhesive has been increased above normal usage. Although high strength ply can easily be obtained, it is not commonly sold at big box outlets.

Plywood is used whenever the cost of natural growth wood can be undercut. You can bet that if ply was the best choice for things such as stringers, chines and keels then the manufacturers and designers would have used it.

Why use natural growth wood in such applications? Flexability and resiliance is greater with it. The very fact that plywood is "stiffer" reduces the chance of the parts survival when impact loaded. Natural growth wood is also more resistant to vibration loads. One other aspect is that natural growth wood is more rot resistant than plywood. The many voids in most plywood retain water more than natural growth wood and this provides a needed ingredient for rot.

Plywood can be ordered pressure treated to reduce the dryrot aspect, but so can NGW. Another advantage of NGW is that you can obtain species that are naturally resistant to rot, such as Southern Yellow Pine, Cypress, Teak etc.

One other aspect that I find intresting is that most on this web want to completely encapsulate stringers, tramsoms etc., when they find the original rotted. There is a reason that very few manufacturers encapsulate wooden parts. If there is the slightest crack in the fiberglass encapsulation then water can and usually will, get into the wood. When it does there is very little chance of the wood drying out before dryrot can get a good start. When wooden parts have only one or two faces glassed over then the other faces allow the wood to dry out and stop the growth of the dryrot.

I used to use a good deal of copper naphthenate products to prevent dryrot in my wooden boats and on the wood parts of my plastic boats. I have been fortunate enough to become friends with several commercial fishermen and all of them have convinced me of the value of plain old ordinary salt. I finally put salt boxes on my craft. I fill them with rock salt when I can get it in the summer and watersoftener salt in the winter when I can't. I have had no dryrot in any of the salted wood. It has been a very good inexpensive solution. I am presently modifying a fiberglass daysailer to have saltboxes to prevent the decay shown in this thread.

Please don't think that I am against plywood. I have used it for transoms, flooring, seats and other uses that require a lot of coverage. It definately has it uses and is superior to NGW in some applications, but I don't believe that stringers is a good use for it.

Remember, it's just my opinion.
 

jcsercsa

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

Extenral Why are they useing plywood for I beams , I thought that they said that it was cheaper the wood and it was stronger?? It was on this old house . thats where i seen it , I do agree that if you dont seal it right it will rot faster, and itsnt it when we exposy it making it stronger ??? John
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

i tend to agree with External Combustion for one thing this boat is an 1958 thats 50 years old and orrigional transom and stringers the stringers are not fully glassed in and are made of dementional lumber. and in compairion to the floor ply and transom ply the stringers are in excellent shape the only place they are badly deterated is where the stringers meet the transom. the boat has never been rebiult and it has been stored outside uncovered for the last 3 years that i know of. im 99.9 % sure its all orrigional becouse the glass used is the same as the glass used in meany other places in the boat. all the plywood materials were 2ce as rotten as the solid lumber and that is consistant threwout the boat. now we have boats here that are 10 years old needing new stringers that were orrigionaly made from ply. this boat is 50 years old. also iv heard boats with composite stringers have a harder ride as the stringers are stiffer than wood stringers, so there for solid lumber would have a softer ride than ply sringers while still keeping its orrigional strength. now one thing that i can say about solid lumber is the grain quality and direction has alot to do with its strength i am a drummer and alway carfully inspect the grain of the wook on my sticks when purchasing a stick with a poor grain will break alot sooner and easyer than a stick with a close straight grain.
 

SgtMaj

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

Hello, this looks all too familiar. I will have nightmares tonight. :D

I used a chisel (or rather, 4 chisels, as I broke the first 3 :eek:) to get the wood out of my transom. It looks like you cut yours very similarly to the way I cut mine, and that was the best way I could find to get it out.

With reguard to the lumber you decide on, If you can find a single piece of solid lumber to make then transom out of, then go for it. But if you're thinking of using 2x4's or 2x6's or even 2x12's, forget about it. Your transom needs to be able to exert force all the way around the hull. Otherwise you are letting a very tiny area of fiberglass take all the force exerted by the motor, and your chances of having a running motor jump in the boat with you increase dramatically. So unless you can find a 2x24 or larger, then I would suggest rebuilding it with Ply or a suitable alternative such as seacast.

I rebuilt my transom with 3/4 ply with Seacast poured behind that, and it has come out fairly well (apart from not bracing it properly when pouring the seacast so it bowed slightly in the middle and required more seacast than I had originally purchased). I would recommend doing something like that so you get the best of both worlds (not to quote a hannah montana song or anything).
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

i was refering to using solid lumber for my stringers not the transom, i will be using ply for the floor and transom. sea cast is too spendy for me, otherwise i would go that route but if i went sea cast id probably be looking into composit stringer construction as well.
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

i want to rebiuld it as close to it orrigionaly was structurally becouse of the fact that it has lasted so long the way it orrigionaly was biult.
 

SgtMaj

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Re: floor and transom removal progress and ?

It all depends on the quality of materials you're thinking of using. Seacast, compared to a couple good pieces of Okume marine plywood, becomes very affordable. It has the added benefit of never rotting, but all that said, that's really a personal preference. As long as you take care to seal it well, and seal any holes made later, a couple pieces of ply will do just as well as seacast.

As far as the stringers are concerned, I would think that solid lumber would be just fine... just seal them up good. If you seal them up right, they'll last a hundred years.
 
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