Weak transom

N6REJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
30
Re: Weak transom

Ok, I wasn't sure how far back to cut it so I cut it as far as the crack on the upper right of the transom was and down the "line" that had appeared in the fiberglass from water damage, and the about 3" below the known weak point and roughly an equal distance on the port side. I didn't want to cut too much, but I assumed, apparently wrongly, that sense the glass had delaminated from the 2x that it needed to come off anyway.
Something else I noticed today, is in the bilge on both the port and starboard side of the bilge, there is about a 1" hole, and then another in the aft of the bilge going through the transom. I know what the last one is for but am unsure of the other two sense they don't have any brass in them either.
The glass looks like perhaps at one time the aft transom wall and the top splash were one piece. Because the pieces almost line up perfectly. On the inside there is a obvious point the runs port to starboard where you can see a difference in the thickness of the transom.
This appears to be where the deck and the transom mated in some way. But its thinner down lower then at that point. Also at the 'line' that runs port to starboard the glass is cracked, flaked, and missing there. Also up the port and starboard sides of the transom slightly.
My thinking is that Once I get the outside of the transom skin off I should cut out all the offending wood and pull it through the stern of the boat? Am I on the right track?
Do I worry about cutting the glass on the inside?
Should I continue to cut away the area that I did cut? Its VERY wet on that side of the board
Troy
 
Last edited:

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: Weak transom

I'm sure some of the pros will chime in but if you can keep the outside skin in one big piece if possible it will make the repair job of fiberglassing much better..
The splash well is usually part of the top cap and is set down onto foam or whatever when the boat was built.
The cracks on the inside of the transom can be ground down and new mat glassed to it..
 

N6REJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
30
Re: Weak transom

How do I proceed with the transom repair? What is the estimated cost of doing this repair?
 

sdunt

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 11, 2005
Messages
389
Re: Weak transom

OK, There are two methods of transom repair.

1. Remove the top deck, if you have a splashwell in the way and take out the inner fiberglass skin of the boat to access the wooden core of the transom.

2. the method you seem to be going down, cut off the outside layer of fiberglass to access the wooden transom core.

You need to remove 100% of the old wood, saving as much as possible for a pattern for the new transom you're going to build.

You will need to build a new wooden transom that matches the original wood core as closely as possible. Generally you'll need 2 layers of 3/4 inch A - C exterior grade plywood. So 1 sheet of plywood should do it for that size of boat. You will need to laminate the 2 pieces together, generally with resin (your choice Fiberglass - Polyester resin or Epoxy Resin) and cloth or matting.

You could start reading my project 'blog' here to get an idea of the transom part of the project: http://www.shareaproject.com/pages/imageDetail,p,148,i,3024,00.html

materials you will need is enough resin and fiberglass cloth to laminate the wood together, also to 'glue' the new wood back into the boat and also reinstall the outer skin. You probably won't be able to match the original gelcoat color, so plan on repainting, at least the transom.

Here is my usual list of resources and suppliers, look for the books at the library. I just found of there are several video's on fiberglass and epoxy work on YouTube.com.

Runabout Renovation: How to Find and Fix Up an Old Fiberglass Speedboat by Jim Anderson
http://www.amazon.com/Runabout-Reno...0255336?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1176991542&sr=8-1

The Fiberglass Boat Repair Manual by Allan H. Viatses
http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Bo...0255336?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1176991609&sr=1-2

Fiberglass Repair and Construction Handbook Author: Jack Wiley
http://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Re...9355330?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1180026258&sr=1-1

Video on Fiberglassing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6BIr0Kq0Bs

Boat Repair and Restoration Articles @ West System
http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/proj_repair.html

Suppliers:
http://www.uscomposites.com

http://stores.ebay.com/Tordoff-Supply

Estimating Materials:
http://www.fgci.com/howto/ht006estimating.html

Catalyst Chart
http://www.fgci.com/howto/ht005catalyst_chart.html

Fiberglass Learning center (includes link to West System Manual)
http://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/learning_center.asp
 

OhWellcraft

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 22, 2007
Messages
277
Re: Weak transom

N6REJ

I think to start you may want to remove ALL accessories in the transom area. Battery, bilge pump, label and tuck away all wireing, pull carpet back if possible, remove ALL screws, clips etc. You will be doing a lot of work back there and all that stuff will be in your way the whole time. Just make sure you take good pictures or label well for reassembly. Since the back is cut that far already I would finish the bottom section so the entire back piece can be removed. HANG on to that piece stow it away in the garage or something for now. Then you can begin to remove all of that wet rotted plywood that is in there. It ALL has to come out use what ever you can come up with to remove(trying not to destroy surrounding areas) chisles,pry bar, angle grinder, I have heard of some using electric chainsaws but that is more applicable if you are coming from the top of transom not the back. Once ALL of the wood is out then you will need to make a decision on what you want to do next. There are a few routes to go here, all with good end results, but very different price ranges. I won't go into all that because it is all been covered here on this site already. When you get to that point do a search on transom rebuild materials and you see what I mean plus it is explained in much more detail than I could. I just finished mine (20' cuddy) and went with two layers of 3/4" ply and epoxy resin it is like a rock and I have a 235 horse rude on it....
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Weak transom

Cracks in the splashwell are not signs of abuse. When a transom starts to sag, it puts stress on the fiberglass of the splashwell and it cracks. Cracks in the splashwell are diagnostic for a poor condition transom. Next used boat you buy, look for them and either don't buy the boat or use it as a haggling point.
 

N6REJ

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Messages
30
Re: Weak transom

Funny you should mention this today. The cracks I found were hidden under the motor rubber shield. Today I made a trade for a 1972 strahm 'exciter' with a 85hp chrysler engine. My old boat was more what they wanted and this new boat is more what I wanted, so we both did ok. I gave them $300 and am waiting for the new coil that the engine needs to arrive ( hopefully monday ) and they got my old boat and my old motor. Now I have to find someone that needs a 1964 super seahorse 40 with electramatic and then I should be ok. Unfortunately I can't use the motor in the new boat as its a open bow needs a long shaft ( tri-hull ) and the johnson looks like its a short shaft.
This new boat is in really nice condition, considering.
 
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