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Keel repair

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  • #16
    Fiberglass is pretty easy to do
    Get a sander and start just going for it. Keep sanding until you find dry stuff. Once all the wet is gone, use some 1708 and resin, and soak the cloth rel good. The cloth an resin should dry fairly clear and no bubbles. Add more layers as needed until the profile looks good.

    Now sand smooth with fine sandpaper

    Once smooth, now mix gelcoat and can paint it on. May need a few coats, and sand smooth and polish

    Should say this is how I would do it, others are probably different
    94 Formula 27PC Custom 509MPI MEFI3 , B3 XR
    95 Rinker 232 w/ 7.4L Carb 0F425011 B1 0F486471
    07 Seadoo GTX
    Merc Adults Only VP Adults Only
    G-Dad always said "First Liar doesn't stand a chance"

    Comment


    • #17
      how wide is the damage circled in red? is it 3.5" wide, or 3.5" long and about 3/4" wide?
      Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

      Past Boats
      1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
      2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
      1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

      What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Scott Danforth View Post
        how wide is the damage circled in red? is it 3.5" wide, or 3.5" long and about 3/4" wide?
        3.5in long, 1in wide
        2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

        Past
        2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

        Comment


        • #19
          Before you start grinding and cutting and just to be sure about things . . . to avoid getting yourself into a 'mell of a hess'

          > Does the described area feel 'soft' because the fiberglass is thin?

          > Is there any evidence that the damage has actually broken through the fiberglass?

          > Does water continually drip from any of the damaged area?

          > Is the area where the scrape is located visible from inside the boat? such as the ski locker or other area? or is it hidden?

          Usually, the keel is an area where the fiberglass is fairly thick . . . so it seems unusual that a scraping off of the gelcoat would result in a perforation of the hull. However . . . if there was an air pocket in the fiberglass, then you might get the situation that you are describing.

          Can you get any better pictures of the damage area, particularly the area that you feel is 'soft'?
          Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

          Current Boats: Formula 330 SS O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish, Boston Whaler 13
          Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 SS
          Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980), Evinrude 25 HP (1992), Yamaha 3 (1990)

          My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by tpenfield View Post
            Before you start grinding and cutting and just to be sure about things . . . to avoid getting yourself into a 'mell of a hess'

            > Does the described area feel 'soft' because the fiberglass is thin?

            > Is there any evidence that the damage has actually broken through the fiberglass?

            > Does water continually drip from any of the damaged area?

            > Is the area where the scrape is located visible from inside the boat? such as the ski locker or other area? or is it hidden?

            Usually, the keel is an area where the fiberglass is fairly thick . . . so it seems unusual that a scraping off of the gelcoat would result in a perforation of the hull. However . . . if there was an air pocket in the fiberglass, then you might get the situation that you are describing.

            Can you get any better pictures of the damage area, particularly the area that you feel is 'soft'?
            > Does the described area feel 'soft' because the fiberglass is thin? The area of real concern is/was squishy. I pushed on it and water dripped out.
            > Does water continually drip from any of the damaged area? No. Today it seems drier but still squishy/soft.

            > Is the area where the scrape is located visible from inside the boat? such as the ski locker or other area? or is it hidden? Lucked out and pulled the table stand out and looked through hull and can see some kind of change in the fiberglass in the area of the damage.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Keel 2.jpg Views:	2 Size:	1.63 MB ID:	10931517

            This is the close up with flash of the soft spot. The circled area is where I can gently poke a flat head screwdriver and touch the next layer. After really looking and trying to identify the different layers, it seems that fiberglass mat is punctured. Based on the info I found on Chap hull construction, there are 3 layers of different types of fiberglass. The next layer after the fiberglass mat is the Spraycore 2000.

            Click image for larger version  Name:	Keel 1.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.13 MB ID:	10931515 Click image for larger version

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            The more I think about this, I can't see how hitting a bunk board hard would cause this. I also notice the gel coat starting at the water line at the bow and along the entire keel line has been roughed up. For all I know it could have been there already. Also when I got home and pulled the drain plug, a lot of water came out. At first I didn't think anything of it because we took some water over the bow in the Point Pleasant Canal (NJ) because the changing tide/current can kick up some nice little waves around the bridges. But now I'm thinking more about it, I was taking on water but I no idea if the bilge pump kicked on. Why do they build these boats without a bilge pump alarm.
            Attached Files
            2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

            Past
            2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

            Comment


            • #21
              shine a light from below (outside the boat) up towards the damaged area and see what it looks like from the same spot inside the boat . . . (take a picture too)
              Best regards, Ted . . . . Cape Cod, MA

              Current Boats: Formula 330 SS O'Day Mariner Sail #3224, Sunfish, Boston Whaler 13
              Past Boats: Catalina 22 Sail #10531, Formula 242 SS
              Twin Mercruiser 7.4 LX MPI (0F802036, 039), Bravo 3's (0F806198, 199), Mercury 7.5 HP (1969), Johnson 4.5 HP (1980), Evinrude 25 HP (1992), Yamaha 3 (1990)

              My Boating Web Pages: http://www.tpenfield.com

              Comment


              • #22
                it may be worth a call to Chap's customer service. they can tell you if the filler they used in the keel was made of what material.
                Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                Past Boats
                1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

                Comment


                • #23
                  Boy... from the color of that, I wonder if that's all new(ish) damage. Looks awfully dark for damage that's only seen water for a couple of multi-hour outings. I wouldn't expect the substrate to be that mushy from only that limited amount of time in the water. I bet you could take intact flotation foam, hold it under water for a day or two, and it would take on barely any water. That looks concerning to me.
                  Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by tpenfield View Post
                    shine a light from below (outside the boat) up towards the damaged area and see what it looks like from the same spot inside the boat . . . (take a picture too)
                    Defiantly see light through the layers, but as far the soft area, can't see anything because the stringer is in the way.
                    2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

                    Past
                    2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by JASinIL2006 View Post
                      Boy... from the color of that, I wonder if that's all new(ish) damage. Looks awfully dark for damage that's only seen water for a couple of multi-hour outings. I wouldn't expect the substrate to be that mushy from only that limited amount of time in the water. I bet you could take intact flotation foam, hold it under water for a day or two, and it would take on barely any water. That looks concerning to me.
                      The thought has crossed my mind that this damage was missed when the boat was purchased. Maybe for kicks, I'll call the marina to see if they still have the pics.

                      On a side note, are boat sellers (non-private) required to declare or point out such damage?
                      2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

                      Past
                      2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by JASinIL2006 View Post
                        Boy... from the color of that, I wonder if that's all new(ish) damage. Looks awfully dark for damage that's only seen water for a couple of multi-hour outings. I wouldn't expect the substrate to be that mushy from only that limited amount of time in the water. I bet you could take intact flotation foam, hold it under water for a day or two, and it would take on barely any water. That looks concerning to me.
                        I agree.....very concerning. A proper repair is starting to look like there needs to be some layups done on the inside to properly tie the damaged area in. That keel area should be very thick and strong, not soft and thin. I’d say that needs to be investigated more than what can be seen on the bottom.
                        1986 Bayliner 16' Capri, 90 hp Johnson (sold)
                        1990 Chaparral 2000 SL Sport, 4.3L LX, Mercruiser Alpha I, Gen I

                        Link to Chaparral restoration- https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/10286641-chaparral-2000-sl-sport-floor-and-more

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Baylinerchuck View Post

                          I agree.....very concerning. A proper repair is starting to look like there needs to be some layups done on the inside to properly tie the damaged area in. That keel area should be very thick and strong, not soft and thin. I’d say that needs to be investigated more than what can be seen on the bottom.
                          When you say the keel should be very thick, how thick is that typically? I marked below where along the keel the damage is. Is the keel typically very thick from the tip of the bow all the way back?

                          Click image for larger version

Name:	Keel 4.jpg
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ID:	10931717
                          2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

                          Past
                          2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by badrano View Post

                            When you say the keel should be very thick, how thick is that typically? I marked below where along the keel the damage is. Is the keel typically very thick from the tip of the bow all the way back?

                            [ATTACH=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"medium","data-attachmentid":10931717**[/ATTACH]
                            Yes, from the bow eye aft as the V runs and especially in that area. My 1990 Chap was atleast 1/4” to 3/8” glass with 2” wide core wood shaped to the V profile covered in roving. Like the transom, that area should be very strong, certainly not soft.

                            its really hard to determine what’s going on there, but given the photos, if it were mine, I’d want to open that up topside and repair it bottom up, then fare and gel the bottom. Unless I’m missing something.
                            1986 Bayliner 16' Capri, 90 hp Johnson (sold)
                            1990 Chaparral 2000 SL Sport, 4.3L LX, Mercruiser Alpha I, Gen I

                            Link to Chaparral restoration- https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/10286641-chaparral-2000-sl-sport-floor-and-more

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Baylinerchuck View Post
                              My 1990 Chap was atleast 1/4” to 3/8” glass with 2” wide core wood shaped to the V profile covered in roving. Like the transom, that area should be very strong, certainly not soft.

                              its really hard to determine what’s going on there, but given the photos, if it were mine, I’d want to open that up topside and repair it bottom up, then fare and gel the bottom. Unless I’m missing something.
                              The one pic I got that showed a limited view of the inside, there's definitely no "traditional" solid piece of wood in that area. It looks like the fiberglass was molded in to the V shape and stringers along the way. I would guess construction techniques have changed in the 15 years between our boats.

                              I think my season is done. I was hoping to get a couple more cruises in but having a boat that won't take on water is way more important. Anyways, given October is around the corner, the shops are going to being packed with winterizations. This repair will have to be done in the off season.
                              2005 Chaparral 256 SSi - MX 6.2 MPI s/n 0W061713, Bravo 3

                              Past
                              2005 Chaparral 204 SSi - 2009 5.0L TKS, Alpha I Gen II

                              Comment


                              • #30
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                                Good decision. I would really want to dig into what is going on there. The gouge looks pretty deep. It’s definitely something than can be repaired by yourself if you’re so inclined, and have the space to do it. Good luck with whatever you decide to do there.
                                1986 Bayliner 16' Capri, 90 hp Johnson (sold)
                                1990 Chaparral 2000 SL Sport, 4.3L LX, Mercruiser Alpha I, Gen I

                                Link to Chaparral restoration- https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-repair-and-restoration/boat-restoration-building-and-hull-repair/10286641-chaparral-2000-sl-sport-floor-and-more

                                Comment

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