Boat restoration 1989 Charger 1850

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 12, 2020
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76
Ok np. Wasnt able to start one here so started at the first one. Now I can post in here. Sorry.

So got a question as I'm tearing this boat apart inside. What if I left the bow alone? I ask this because in order for me to get to the bow. I have to basically cut through all of the composite to get there. The bow seats and floor are all attached the console and co console. It's all one part.
 

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chevymaher

Commander
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Mar 29, 2017
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2,915
Awww my boat is just like yours. I got the bow section out without taking the cap off and put it all back in there. Not saying it wasn't a pain in the arse. But it can be done. Cap does a good job holding the hull in shape while your screwing with all this. And guess what it fits because it never came apart. Rub rail is still perfect. There are all kinds of reasons that aren't mentioned to doing it this way.

Is it harder to re fit a cap and hull that are no longer the same shape and cracking as you screw it down. Rub rail needs refitted to the new shape. Or just deal with getting the floor out from under the bow hallway. Pick you poison and go with it,. I like the perfect undamaged from the factory look myself.

Look through the older threads there more than a few they never went together right once the stringers and floor went in and the cap was off.
 

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 12, 2020
Messages
76
Wow. Ok another thing. Got starboard middle all cleaned out and right in the middle looks like there could be a 2x6. I stuck my chisel in the middle felt a board and was able to push it up the length of the boat, uh oh. Now what?am I needing to cut the middle out to get the board and replace it?
or can I drill a hole and inject resin in it?
 

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ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
76
Awww my boat is just like yours. I got the bow section out without taking the cap off and put it all back in there. Not saying it wasn't a pain in the arse. But it can be done. Cap does a good job holding the hull in shape while your screwing with all this. And guess what it fits because it never came apart. Rub rail is still perfect. There are all kinds of reasons that aren't mentioned to doing it this way.

Is it harder to re fit a cap and hull that are no longer the same shape and cracking as you screw it down. Rub rail needs refitted to the new shape. Or just deal with getting the floor out from under the bow hallway. Pick you poison and go with it,. I like the perfect undamaged from the factory look myself.

Look through the older threads there more than a few they never went together right once the stringers and floor went in and the cap was off.

Can you kind of tell me how you did that? Any help would be extremely appreciated.
 

emoney

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
2,551
Not to speak for Chevymaher, but it's probably a better idea for you to read through several of the resto threads, right here in iboats. Pictures tell a thousand words, they say. You'll want to build a "gantry" more than likely to remove the cap in one piece and secure the hull so it doesn't lose it's shape when it comes off.

As for the "2x6", it's all got to come out. That includes all of that wet, yucky looking foam. Have you read up much on the process of replacing the transom yet?
 

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 12, 2020
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76
I saw Fresnoboaters videos how he did it, but I have been doing the transom "tests" that I found online and the transom seems to be intact. Thank God!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,492
start with the DIY sticky at the top of the forum. read links 14, 15, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b in their entirety. look at every photo, read every line, watch every video

highly doubt your transom is intact. that is where the rot normally starts.
 

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jul 12, 2020
Messages
76

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
76
Ok. I saw the pic. I have a live well under those seats. Go figure. And question how did you replace the deck? Shove the deck board under the bow cap?
 

ChargerMan1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2020
Messages
76
Update. I have cleaned out the middle of the boat up to where you see in picture. Port side have a wall I need to cut out then can get to bow. Starboard side have a wall and live well, go figure. I'm cutting it out, don't fish. Besides it's in my way. Once that is out I can get to whole bow with some difficulty prob. I dont want to take cap off. Heard horror stories of doing that.
 

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Chris51280

Ensign
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
904
I cut the bottom pan out. After the deck is in, I used the resin and made fillets to raise the whole section so the windows align like they are supposed to

#301 on my resto project
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,915
I answered your message. When you do this i know how to adjust the windshield so it lines up right. You use wood as shims under the bow hallway. I used a small jack to move it to get the shims in. That raises and lowers the windshield and also makes it wider and narrower. Anyway I had fits but figured it out. The center window adjusting. It isnt bad if you just got straight answers. LOL like the guys all over the net first thing out of their mouths. it is rot. No sheet sherlock now how do you adjust or you don't know and are just here to rub salt in the wound because yours is screwed up and you never found out. Secret on the center window is this. Do not use it to pull yourself to a standing position once you fix it. That is exactly what bent the soft aluminum hinges so it got screwed up the first time.
 
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