Building a '93 Caravelle 1750 Classic Bowrider

Scott Danforth

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Making a mount is the same process if its a single or a pair....

You can also but the mercruiser side mounts for a 3.0 (same dimension location as the V6)
 

archbuilder

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I replaced the one in my Powercat, it was a fairly simple design. I had a inline 4 and changed it to an inline 6. I used seacast, but the original was just lumber. The back mount takes most of the torque of the engine, the front mainly just holds up the front of the engine and keeps it from bouncing around. Here is a link to my thread, you can see a picture of both the old one and the shell of the new one before it was tab / the seacast was poured.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...t-fuggly-no-longer-fuggly-and-splashed/page33

Mine was more or less a big pad in the engine pod sponson. I suspect that yours just had something similar running between the stringers. My hull has no stringers since the sponsons basically do the same thing, but its the same principal. Getting the height correct is really important, you can always go up, but going down is limited by the pad height relative to the rest of the boat. If it was mine and I didn't know the pad height, I think I would get the stringer and transom in, then carefully mock up the engine.
 

Reserector_

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Thanks, Arch. That's the sort of material that I would expect to see from the factory. I picture a timber like that flush at the top of the stringers with a couple of angled blocks wedged in under that, and tabbed in on the side that is facing the bilge. Just a couple of tabs in front where the floor hides it.

I'm starting to get some ideas on how I can create it from layers of plywood.

I want good support, but I also want great drainage from the ski locker all the way to the bilge. My replacement tank is shallower, but longer than the original. That will allow me to suspend it above the hull about an inch. My goal is to be able to rinse it from ski locker to bilge with a hose if I want to. That should prevent leaves from blocking the drain passages. That should also allow that section to dry, especially considering that the area at the back where the tank ports are will be open and accessible when the engine cover is open. That's how the factory did it, and I like that access for inspection and airflow.
 

Scott Danforth

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I would get the late-model side mounts for the 3.0 that locates the side mounts where is does a V6 and do away with the front mount.
 

Reserector_

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Why? The mount that it came with was working. Besides, I already own that one. Seems like a waste of time and money unless there is a good reason for changing it all over.
 

chevymaher

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The something substantial was the motor mount. Stacked whittled plywood. I glued and screwed mine before encasing them in glass. The groove through it is the drain from the skii locker under the gas tank then out the bulkhead. You boat looks like it was made almost exactly like mine under the decks.
 

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Reserector_

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That's the picture I needed. Thank you! I can stack the layers with a layer of resin between for good measure. When I get to the vee portion, I can switch to thinner ply and make each layer narrower as they go down. Probably do a stack on each side and leave the middle open.
I have a belt sander and I'm not afraid to use it. LOL
 

Reserector_

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You're insulting my boat and it isn't even built yet. Some friend YOU are. :lol:
 

Scott Danforth

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I have owned and rode in a few 3.0 powered boats.

besides being louder than a V8, as expensive to rebuild as a V8, they are under-powered

they are a 1950's designed motor that is archaic at best.
 

Pulse186

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Agree, the 3.0 is way under powered but if that is what you have to work with then it is what it is,

Super impressed that you undertook this project, seriously it is am amazing amount of work, looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 

Reserector_

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In all seriousness, this small boat and engine will be among the biggest and fastest craft on the local lakes. The state lakes around here are so small that if you had a fast boat, you would have to go out of state to enjoy it.
My wife and I just want to drive around the lake and sight see. My grown sons might want to ride a tube or a knee board. That's about it.

If you like overpowered things, you guys would love my truck.
 

Reserector_

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I would get the late-model side mounts for the 3.0 that locates the side mounts where is does a V6 and do away with the front mount.

Why? The mount that it came with was working. Besides, I already own that one. Seems like a waste of time and money unless there is a good reason for changing it all over.

I just thought of a reason to swap to the side mounts if I can get my hands on them super cheap. Access to the belt and pulleys. Looks like a pain with the front mount in the way. Might be worth a look on eBay.
 

chevymaher

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You gonna pull that with the flamin marshmellow. That would be so cool. Boat and camper wow that be a weekend to remember.
 

Reserector_

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It depends on the tongue weight. I pull a motorcycle trailer behind the camper with no problems at all. Can't tell it's back there. I never weighed it, but I estimate it to be just over 1,000 lbs with 100 lbs on the tongue. The boat will be closer to 3,000 with about 300 on the tongue. Not sure. That's why I weighed the empty trailer. Always thinking ahead.
The truck can pull it. I just don't want to over tax the frame.

20190726_151641-640x360.jpg


The tag axle has electric brakes. It helps with stability and stopping.
 

chevymaher

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It will pull it. My buddy had that exact truck with a 4 cylinder. He pulled his bayliner for 15 years with it. All over the east coast. It be fine.
 

Reserector_

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Today's progress: Stringers are made and fine-tuned. Last thing I did was join the 8' and 4' pieces and left them to cure.

I'll make the bulkheads and put that all in place before I bed them in and start tabbing.
Those are just temporary spacers in the photos.

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