Chugger boat finally starting construction

[matt167]

I had to delay getting plywood for my boat due to selling my truck and daily driving my MGB. House needs a roof as well but I figured kill 2 birds with one stone and ordered 10 extra sheets of 1/2" CDX, and picked honey sheets out of the 70 sheets. I know it's not Meranti, Ockume or other "BS" standard marine imported wood. But the Chugger boat is slab sided and the only curve is a slight one on the bottom. I don't think the voids will be much of an issue. and I might buy 6 sheets of Hydrotek/ Meranti for the bottom anyway. It's going to be fully encapsulated anyway. I might draw and cut out the forward 8' cabin section tonight when I can get some help

http://www.angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks/html/Chugdes_a.htm

 

[matt167]

I don't have pictures of how I laid it out since the plotting lines did not come out in pictures

 

[matt167]

Do I go with a 12* or 15* transom? Motor is a 20hp manual tilt Johnson long shaft

 

[jbcurt00]

15in or 20in transom perhaps? 12?

Long shaft motor would suggest you need a 20in transom. Or at least whatever your 20hp motor measures

 

[matt167]

Oh it's a long shaft, 20" so I know I need it to be 20". The transom will be 24" and I will cut a slot for the motor to sit at 20", and incorporate a splashwell.. I meant the degree of setback. I've read 12* or 15*

 

[matt167]

I decided to go with 12* transom angle. It's the first variation from the Chugger plans beyond the extension to 16' Overall length and increased beam. The plans do cover extending and widening as it does not change the design.. Mr. Lewis had a 90* transom design. Simple, but it isn't right

The only other variation will be a stringer system and a deck on top. That will stiffen the boat with minimal weight gain.

I also ordered a Chinese 3.5hp outboard as a spare backup motor ( weedeater basically ). I would not have ordered it except it cost under $14 after tax, and Ebay has not killed the listing after hundreds getting sold.. Should I ever need it, I'll build a compartment to store it and build a bracket for it. If it never comes in, Paypal or Ebay will refund me but it was only $14. But I know the china chainsaws sell for under $20 at the port in China so the price makes some sense.

 

[matt167]

Here is a plot twist. I was given this 2000 Smokercraft Allante 196 by a customer of mine, for free. It probably isn't worth rebuilding back the way it was. it's just a 19.6' bowrider. It was 4.3 LX Mercruiser but the engine has been picked over, and the outdrive and controls are missing.. It's got a real nice 2001 EZ Loader/ Starcraft trailer though which is actually why I took it. I have a chainsaw and compact tractor. getting rid of it isn't an issue

Upon some initial investigations, this boat actually shows signs of still being solid. Last on the water in 2012 but Smokercraft specifications say they were built from pressure treated wood deck/ stringer/ transom. The deck for sure seems solid, and the stringers at the motor mounts/ transom show no obvious signs of issue. A little more investigation/ core samples and I'm sure. Not sure if being solid really means anything at this point given it's an I/O and I don't have any I/O stuff.

Now the same guy who gave me the boat, is selling me a 2001 125hp Mercury Saltwater series OB that has probably never been in saltwater and is in perfect operating condition. The guy is upgrading to a 4 stroke Tohatsu that he has on another boat ( has 5ish boats ). And he does not like 2 stroke or the surge that the 2+2 system creates when the bottom cylinders light up.. But I'm getting it for $150

What I would like to do is reuse this free hull and pod mount the 125 merc, but take the side panels from the boat I have started building and build a cabin into the boat after removing the windshield and consoles. I'm just not sure how well a pod will work with the built in swim platform. I'd chop the platform off if I could, but it's part of the cap and the hull itself... In the perfect world, I'd find a rotted 3.0L I/O boat and then rebuild it right back as an I/O. But then I'll end up with too many boats as well.

Is a pod mount possible with this hull? Yes I know, the bunks collapsed This boat was positioned a bit too far forward in this trailer I think. The boat is riding 'in' the trailer a bit, and did damage some gelcoat but it's very fixable. Some damage up by the winch as well but I've seen far worse.

 

[jbcurt00]

Hijacking your own topic.... interesting....

Dup discussion of another topic:
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...89020-disposing-of-a-hull-what-s-worth-saving

How about you start a new topic specific to your pod mount questions for the Smokercraft?


FYI w enough time effort and money, yep, any derelict hull can get an OB pod mount. Swap from I/O to a pod mount OB is not a slap together the 2 pieces and done proposition. But as I said, that discussion is best suited to a new topic.

 

[matt167]

I'm only building ONE boat, and if I chose to build this hull out, it will get the cabin structure which I have already constructed for the chugger. Hence it's not really a hijack. The same boat will be constructed in the end, whether it be directly from chugger plans, or using this freebie given it's actually solid.. If I find substantial rot, I'll chop it up and load it into the pickup and off to the dump it goes. Freebie trailer, a good working steering system for the chugger.. The trailer is an older model of an EZ loader that I was eyeballing for the chugger as it is which is why I took it in the first place.. I'm exploring this option because it might be viable. But the whole purpose of building a boat was to incorporate parts of my grandfathers old boat into it which has to happen either way.

 

[jbcurt00]

I'm only building ONE boat.

So, ya start a new "Whatever you want to do to the Smokercraft" topic, drop a link here in the Chugger topic if you decide to abandon that build, and drop a link to the new build out in the Junk or Salvage topic you started about the Smokercraft OR ask for that topic's title to be changed to suit a new plan.

Then simply stop posting to the topics that arent actually related to the Smokercraft build out.

For example, if I have no interest in following your Chugger build out, as its a new DIY project from stem to stern, unlike a rehab, I might never open this Chugger topic

Or if I'm interested in a complete DIY project, I might want to follow the Chugger build, then in mid stream the project is abandoned and the topic now follows the Smoker rehab, but the updates are all filed under a Chugger topic title, sort of a disconnect in my opinion.

Conversely, I might be interested in how you DIY a rehab of sorts to an I/O hull that you decapitate, completely gut and rebuild to suit your use of it, and the addition of an OB pod, but dont know this is chronicled here under the Chugger build. Another disconnect.

The parts and pieces of the Chugger and your granddads boat are resources you may use in the new Smokercraft topic. Having posted some of that here doesnt really matter if you abandon the Chugger build.

If you use them, or want someone to know your original plan, drop a link to this Chugger topic in the new topic as backstory for someone just joining in on your journey...

Please remember, topics are supposed to be resources for others too, not just build help for the boat builders that start them.

its simply trying to do some housekeeping to make it all as useful as we possibly can for current and future members.

Good luck w whichever project and topic you dig into.....

 

[matt167]

I guess I'll pause posting on the new boat, except the topic I started on the POD feasibility. because I'm not entirely sure I'll actually use the hull itself.

 

[matt167]

Well, ended up. This boat is getting built in it's original configuration I had planned with a slight twist.

I got the Starcraft Offshore 18 which has everything done to it mostly so I'll have it ready for a spring splash.. and I traded a car for it, so didn't actually pay anything... The chugger by design has a calm water only limitation, so having 2 boats isn't a problem and an Offshore makes a nice big water boat..

For the way different part to this. The guy that gave me the parts boat/ nice trailer sold me a 2001 Mercury 125 saltwater series with nothing wrong with it, as well as a good working Teleflex steering box and cable, and full controls.. A bit more than the 20hp Johnson I had planned. But I had always feared the 20hp was actually too small to push it, and I have plans to implement a full stringer system and transom knee braces.. 125hp might be a bit much, but being a 16' cabin cruiser it might actually be ok. I won't push it faster than it needs to go. I have to put the batteries under the side seats in the cabin to offset the weight

 

[matt167]

According to the calculators, my boat needs about 80hp to achieve 30mph and has potential for 50 mph at 125hp. That's a bit fast. So probably never open it up and might even put a stop in the throttle system.. However it also verifies that my boat would not plane with less than 40hp or so. so my 20hp would run at displacement speed/ 6.2 mph at max efficiency and nothing more

 

[matt167]

Boat balance and hp. 115lbs to 348lbs outboard, sink or not? +100hp

I'm building an enlarged Lewis boat works chugger, which is a cabin cruiser on a jon boat type hull. I'm adding knees, stringers and a deck/ foam not called out in the plans.. Mine will be 62" wide and 16' long which is 4' longer and over a foot wider than the as planned configuration. Plans suggest 15hp maximum but old writings of Mr lewis suggest that he really did not set a maximum hp for longer variations.

I have a 115lbs 20hp Johnson that I originally intended to use, but always feared it wasn't quite enough..
But a 2001 Mercury Saltwater 125 fell into my lap and while I know it's a ripper. I'm fearing I went from not quite, to way too much.

The calculations are about 2000 lbs with fuel, occupants and engine and electronics. Calculators Suggesting 80hp to gain 30mph which seems about right and 125hp could run 50. A 50 should do 20ish which is where I want... 25lbs per horse rule of thumb puts it at 80hp max.

Can I move 233lbs forward into the cabin and keep this thing level? I took the 125 on the condition I use it, but I could probably trade it off for a 50-80hp

 

[HT32BSX115]

Plans suggest 15hp maximum but old writings of Mr lewis suggest that he really did not set a maximum hp for longer variations.

Howdy,

You can do all sorts of balancing to move the CG (Center of Gravity) forward after putting a LOT of weight in the back.

The hull appears to NOT be intended to be a planing type hull (although flat-bottom boats can certainly plane you'd only want to do it on a "glassy" surface) and it might be the reason the original designer suggested 15hp.

I would suggest that the original designer also considered the amount of actual thrust available with a 15hp engine and designed the transom with reasonable safety factors to withstand it.

However, I'd be willing to bet he did NOT design it to withstand 4 or more TIMES the original thrust it may have been designed for.

So while you could certainly account for the additional weight on the back and move the CG forward with additional weight in the front, the CG will likely be too far forward when the engine tears the transom off the back of the boat and sinks.

Just saying.....

Cheers,

Rick

Let me also add that I do see that you are adding "knees, stringers, foam etc"...... I am not a Mechanical (marine) Engineer My background is actually Electrical Engineering but I did take, Statics & Dynamics, and other ME courses......So I can say that if you are actually doing "Due Diligence" transom design, you can design it to withstand whatever thrust you want (if you do the stress calculations.

Can I move 233lbs forward into the cabin and keep this thing level?

but the above question makes me suspect that you may not be able to do those type of calculations.

You might want to consult a Professional Engineer on this. The ABYC has a fair amount of info on boat design and someone there might be able to hook you up with people that do this for a hobby!

 

[matt167]

I had originally thought it wasn't meant for planing, but his test boat suggested it could plane with a little more hp..
If I can get it to do 20 mph in an emergency type situation, I would be happy. My intended use was flat calm local lakes and the Erie canal

I could always finance the epoxy/ fiberglass with the sale of the big motor. I just got a '71 Starcraft Offshore 18 for big lakes and water, knowing I'd need 2 boats for the limitations of the little one

 

[JimS123]

Sounds like an accident waiting to happen. Also, I just scratch my head when someone suggests adding weight to counterbalance. Moving weight is one thing. But to improve performance the best approach is to remove weight, not add it.

 

[matt167]

Yeah. It cost $150 so I won't loose by not using it. I'll just stick with the 20hp. I can sell it to fund the fiberglass supplies

I meant move batteries or other into the cabin rather than under the splashwell. Not add extra weight.

 

[Chris1956]

How long is the Jon boat? What is it's max HP?

 

[Scott Danforth]

from the stickies in the hull restoration forum.

see link #1 https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-information

the length at water line, the transom width and height will determine how much HP you need.

or look here https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/...-sec183-43.pdf

the formula is there.

If you want to hang more HP than that calculation, you have to prove to the USCG you did all the required testing (which is a really expensive round of testing witnessed by the USCG)

BTW, a 50' houseboat moves almost the same speed with a 50hp outboard as a 200hp outboard since its displacement speed is based on wetted hull length.