1980 Sea Ray SRV 197 rebuild

[exjarhead0352]

Ill get some pictures loaded as I go. Have started demo and I am going all the way, deck, strings and foam all water logged. SO I am starting from scratch. Engine is out and will be worked on as well. Quite certain the outdrive will get a good once over if not replaced. I have been reading a great many topics here, and watching all the videos I can find. SO the first question I have is this. When bedding the new stringers, I have seen, use PB, use PL...why not use 5200? I'm new to all this so this may be the first of multiple questions, deemed stupid.

 

[Woodonglass]

Welcome to iBoats and thank you for your Service!!
5200 is WAY to expensive to use for Bedding stringers. Use Peanut Butter much less expensive and does a great job.
The second link below should be very helpful for your upcoming project

 

[CrazyFinn]

What WOG said...

Using PB is cost effective, works well, and once everything is tabbed and glassed in you have one cohesive unit - the resin in the tabbing is the same as the PB, and it all just bonds as one unit. With PL or 5200, the resin of the tabbing will not "bond" to the adhesive in the same way. I can also imagine that the 5200 once cured would still allow a bit too much movement. The idea of the bedding is to make sure that the stringers have even contact pressure with the hull (through the bedding) with no pressure points that would result from slight variations in either the hull of the cutting of the stringers.

 

[exjarhead0352]

Here is another question. For budget reasons I will be using poly resin, is there a reason to pick iso vs ortho?

 

[exjarhead0352]

After doing a little more research on this boat I have found that it came with 3 engine options. It currently has the mercruiser 898. I have found that a 260hp engine was an option. Any of you experts know what that would have been?

 

[Woodonglass]

Here is another question. For budget reasons I will be using poly resin, is there a reason to pick iso vs ortho?

For your boat restoration I'd recommend using the ISO Poly resin. Either will work but ISO's chemical make up makes it stronger.

Orthophthalic (Ortho) resins are based upon orthophthalic acid and are a good basic, general-purpose, inexpensive resin.

They have styrene content between 35% and 45%, and are used in applications that do not require elevated service temperatures, high corrosion resistance, or high mechanical properties.

Isophthalic (Iso) resins are a step above Ortho resins, and are better suited for corrosion environments, elevated service temperatures, and have greater mechanical properties. Iso resins have between 42% and 50% styrene because the higher molecular weight more solvent is required to create a workable viscosity. Iso’s better properties do bring higher cost as compared to Ortho Resins.

 

[exjarhead0352]

Thanks woodonglass. It seems your expertise and knowledge is invaluable and expansive.

 

[exjarhead0352]

Here is a futuristic question that should perhaps be posted elsewhere, but has anyone ever swapped a 4.3 in a boat of this vintage?

 

[exjarhead0352]

So a new event in life has changed my plans here. My wife has recently become paralyzed from the waist down. So this project is over. Instead of dumping a bunch of money into this old boat, I am going to part it out and make whatever money I can off of it. Thank you to those that threw some advice my way. If you have any interest in anything off the boat, pm me or watch the typical sites. Thanks

 

[kcassells]

Very sorry to hear that. Family first!

 

[kcassells]

I hope all works out for you guys!

 

[Woodonglass]

Sorry for your problems. Take care of her. Boats can wait!!