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Boat floor repair

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  • Boat floor repair

    I have a 1977 Chrysler that has two soft spots within 3 foot of each other. I satisfied with only doing a marine grade patch repair on it. I'm hoping I can get a bit of help as I have read quite a few things but don't see all my answers.

    1) Can I remove the indoor / outdoor carpet in a way that after I make my patch repair, I can re-adhese the same carpet back on? Use a stripper on a dremel for removal? Use a solvent like goo gone?

    2) Does it matter what kind of saw blade I use to cut through the wood and fiberglass. I have a circular and jig saw.

    3) Will I have to remove some of the foam under the sole/deck in order to plant a frame around the area to mount my patch to?

    4) Is stainless steel wood screws the way to go when mounting patch? Or can this be done without screws?

    5) I will take recommendations on products that get this job done. Adhesive, waterproofing the patch, fiberglassing after the patch is placed..

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  • #2
    You might have better luck if you post this in (or if a mod could move it to) the Boat Restoration, Building, and Hull Repair sub-forum on this board. Lots of good help to be had there.

    One of the things you'll be asked is whether you've checked the boat's structure and foam for water damage. Decks are usually the last thing to rot, so soft spots in the deck are often indicative of bigger problems beneath.

    Anyway, if you ask a moderator to move your topic, you'll probably get a lot more help.

    Good luck!
    Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider


    • #3
      Moved to Restoration forum
      Money spent @ Boat Restoration should be measured in Smiles & Pride SHOP IBOATS-BOAT SPECS-FORUM HELP-REPAIR/RESTO


      • #4
        Boats rot from the bottom up. 99% of the time, when you have soft spots in the floor, everything else below (and behind) it is probably bad also.

        Why are you cutting fiberglass? Shouldn't have a need to cut fiberglass for a simple floor repair.

        As far as the rest, it really depends what you want to do. Have you checked if the transom is solid? (put the motor down, stand on it, bounce some, watch to see if the transom flexes) If you don't want or need to do a full resto, the correct way is to remove the entire floor and replace with the proper materials.

        No one is really going to recommend just doing a patch, that is a very short term temporary fix. (I'm ashamed to admit I've done similar, as well as just laying a sheet of plywood over the original floor to get another couple of years out of a boat that was at the end of its life.)


        • #5
          Thanks for the response! To be honest I don't exactly know what is underneath the floor as far as potential damage. The transom seems solid, when you say flex you mean movement at top edge of transom? It 'flexed' slightly but I assume a little is ok..

          Guess I'm showing my inexperience here but I thought laying some degree of fiberglass is necessary to keep water out. So are you saying just epoxy would be needed?

          I understand why some may not want to help as they don't agree with my methods. I still hope others will share there experience if they have done something similar. The time and money for a full floor repair just doesn't seem doable now. Once winter rolls around I could look into a full floor repair maybe. Sources on this kind of exact thing are limited. Does the link below accurately cover my repair?



          • #6
            I don’t think a solid transom should flex at all, not even a little bit.

            The reason that you probably won’t get a lot of support for a quick patch is that, without investigating, you don’t really know if your boat is structurally sound and safe. (Soft spots in deck + flex in transom + 42 year old boat = reason to suspect more significant problems)

            Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider


            • #7
              “A little bit of flex “
              kind of like a little bit pregnant
              a little bit of Cancer

              you our need to read and educate yourself on what you need to do and how to go about it 🤔


              • #8
                Sources that come from a media account are usually just blatent lies to get readers/ viewers. Everything about that article sounds wrong. That's why you don't find a lot of info, because the info is plain wrong.

                Transom is generally 1.5" thick plywood from the top edge to the keel. Flex is not supposed to be there. Along with that Chrysler boats were built pretty cheap and we have watched some restorations on them..

                This is just the first Youtube video I found on a collapsed transom. You can find others https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hE1ufZspnEA
                Last edited by matt167; June 15th, 2019, 12:44 PM.
                1961 Custom Craft Sea Ray- 1964 Mercury 650. In family since new.


                • #9
                  Transoms Don't flex at all!!! All wood in a fiberglass boat should be coated with resin and glass so yes you will need to cut the glass that is encapsulating the wood cores of the transom, stringers and deck. Almost ALL 42 year old boats will need to have a Total Restoration. The second link below will be good info for you.
                  1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
                  Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
                  Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!


                  • #10
                    Once you follow the advice given by the others here, that circular saw will be your friend. Just set the blade depth so you don't cut through the hull, and cut out the floor. Then dig out all the rot you find down there - which likely will be almost everything. Then cut the inner skin from the transom to get at the rotten wood (that is allowing it to flex).

                    Just being a realist here so you can be prepared for what you will likely find.

                    Read the links the good people above have posted for you. Just patching the floor is kinda like putting a band-aid on cancer. Won't fix the problems hidden under the floor...
                    First project (splashed Sept 2017): 1969 Sea Ray SRV185 Re-build Current project: 1974 Sea Ray SRV240 Weekender
                    Videos of my project here.


                    • #11
                      Transoms should be stiffer and more stout than the rock of Gibraltar.

                      any flex means its rotted.

                      start by going thru all the links in this sticky https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-information

                      specifically start with link 14 in its entirety. watch every video, etc. then link 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b

                      soft floor means the transom and stringers long ago rotted

                      If you want to keep the boat, you will need to restore it properly

                      you wont be saving the carpet

                      you will be completely de-rigging the boat, removing all the interior, etc, maybe even the cap

                      you will be building a cradle for the hull

                      you will be cutting out the floor

                      you will be completely gutting everything

                      you will be replacing your stringers, transom, bulkheads, foam and floor

                      estimated cost will be about $3-4000 for wood, resin, fiberglass, PPE, foam, gel, carpet, etc.
                      Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

                      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

                      Past Boats
                      1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
                      2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
                      1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

                      What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari


                      • #12
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                        Although all the advice above sounds daunting and maybe depressing, safety is what everyone is trying to emphasize. I am in the middle of my full restoration of my 65 LynCraft 15' runabout. There is so much great help here and you won't get any condescending attitudes from others. I am learning that everyone who gives you advice here was once where you and I are now when it comes to knowledge on what to do and how to do it. As the above YouTube video shows and many have said, having problems on a boat is not like breaking down in a car, you want to be sure that boat is completely safe. The first one I bought didn't make it to restoration, too much rot to save. This is my 2nd try at boat restoration and hoping this one splashes someday! I have already learned so much from this forum and looking forward to the reconstruction now that most of the deconstruction is done. Good Luck!