1992 Sea Ray 180 Floor Project Help and Advice needed

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
101
Welcome aboard, Matt!

I had the same experience with my 1st. boat purchase... & at first I was in total denial, but ended-up doing a total re-gut. Due to some health issues, it's taken me years to get my Sea Ray back to seaworthiness, but it's close. The work that you'll do (if you do it right) when you rebuild, will make your boat better-than-factory - it's a very rewarding thing.

The advice that I've received from these boards are priceless!

Personally, I decided that, since I needed to totally rebuild the structure, to swap my 2.0L 4-cyl for a 5.7L V8 (built-up from a short block & parts from other boats), & replaced the back-to-back lounge seats with buckets on pedestals, and raised the floor a few inches - I believe my 19' Seville is absolutely unique (and it now goes like a bat-outa-He!!).

Seems like a disappointment & pain now, but in the end, it'll be GREAT!!

Best of luck with your rebuild, Matt!!

Thanks for the welcome Panoguy!

This is exactly what I am doing, I want to replace the starboard back to back seats with a captains chair and replace the port side with bench seating to open the deck up. With the back to back seating on both sides it feels like we are always stepping on each other and crowded. I am having fun doing the project, even though the humidity in Indiana is ridiculous right now with all the rain we are getting but at least the rain keeps my wife from complaining the that the boat isn't done yet since we can't go to the lake anyways. LOL

Here is a picture of a couple boats I found on another thread (Cadets thread, I think) that I really liked and is what I am going to do with my layout. I am going to gel coat the entire thing but I want to do snap in carpet to keep my kids feet from burning up.
 

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Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 4, 2019
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238
It’s funny you caution this yesterday because I actually inquired about a 1995 Bayliner yesterday. 😂 No motor and the inside needs rebuilt, I think I can pick it up from him for $600, then I just have to listen to my wife complain about how I make it look like a junkyard outside for a couple years. lol

that's funny, mine use to complain until she realized she wasnt gonna change me and my projects lol and i feel ya about looking at another before finishing one
 
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GCartwright

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 1, 2012
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149
If I rebuild it like the factory built it then I would be using 1/2" ply for the Transom, and what worries me is that everything I have read on the forum threads is that the transom should be built with 3/4" ply. I eventually want to replace my 3.0 Merc with something bigger and want to make sure the Transom can handle larger motor.

What was the total thickness of the original transom? How thick is the boat hull? it would take a lot of glass to get to the merc two inch min dimension, it does sound strange that they would have used half inch

Does your transom have a step above the small wing or is it flat?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Merc Transom specs are 2" +- 1/4" Doesn't matter what thickness of ply you use to get there. 2-3/4" with a 1/2" sandwiched between or 4 1/2" layers. Just as long as it meets specs. The PB glue and the resin and glass will add approx. 1/8" to 1/4" to the final dimensions. Remember the New Plywood is 1/32" less than advertised.
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
101
I cut the transom out with a flush cut reciprocating saw blade and even with nearly a 1/4 compensation for the thin layer that I peeled from the hull it is not even close to 2” thick.

Im not sure what you mean by having a step above the small wing, it does have a “shelf” above the Transom that runs the entire length of the rear hull for the built in swim deck, is that the step you’re asking about? Sorry, this is my first boat so I am still learning, I had to look up which side was which for Port & Starboard. LOL

I have read enough of the other forum threads and read how much the others trust your recommendations so I’m going to rebuild it so that it is the required 2” thickness. I guess the only question I still have about the Transom is does it need to cover the entire rear span for the extra strength incase I get a larger motor in the future, I won’t have to worry about it?

Forgot to mention the hull thickness is 1/4, even with that though it’s a 1/4 shy of the 2” requirement.
 

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GCartwright

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Jul 1, 2012
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149
The transom on my searay was full width and height but it is a bigger boat with a bigger stock motor, Frisco also had a 7.4 l in his. No harm in building it bigger I just can't tell you if it's necessary.

Do you have motor mounts to switch it from a front mount to side mount as you had mentioned?
 

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MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
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101
The transom on my searay was full width and height but it is a bigger boat with a bigger stock motor, Frisco also had a 7.4 l in his. No harm in building it bigger I just can't tell you if it's necessary.

Do you have motor mounts to switch it from a front mount to side mount as you had mentioned?

Bigger is better, right? LOL But that’s what I’m going to do, build it so that I won’t have to worry, like I said eventually I want to put a larger motor in.

For the motor mounts, I don’t think this Merc 3.0 can be mounted with side mounts from looking at the block but my plan is to use the Mercruiser installation guide and build in the side mounting blocks, plenty of room to do it and then all I have to do is unbolt the front mounting bracket to install the bigger motor.

Not it sure where I found this at last night but maybe it will help others. http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Install/gas/86017211.pdf
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
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101
GCartwright are you going to fill in the gap at the bottom of your Transom with PB and drill it out? My Sea Ray is the same and I don’t like that there is no buffer between the bilge area and the hull, so I was thinking about filling it in.
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
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101
Polyester Resin question for you guys. What kind should I be using and best brand??? So many options but I need to get it ordered because I’m already grinding/sanding and about ready for materials. I’m not paying West Systems prices and have read some good reviews on Total Boat resins also. What’s the best bang for my buck and what kind? US Composites prices aren’t bad but the have so many different kinds of poly resin that I am completely lost.

Also, when someone says mat layer or cam, they are talking about chopped strand right? Then there is 1708 and another one that I’m not sure what it is. I was a auto body guy for years and can spread and feather with ease but really need some guidance on the fiberglass materials list.
 

steve_h7

Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
401
I used US Composites 435 resin. Almost emptied my 3rd 5 gallon bucket now and I thought it was excellent quality. They also have chopped strand and 1708. I used the 1.5 ounce chopped strand mat. Good prices but shipping depends on how far you are from Florida. I'm in WA so probably can't get any farther, so shipping was brutal... but I just placed my 3rd order from them. :)
 

GCartwright

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Jul 1, 2012
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149
GCartwright are you going to fill in the gap at the bottom of your Transom with PB and drill it out? My Sea Ray is the same and I don’t like that there is no buffer between the bilge area and the hull, so I was thinking about filling it in.

Yes all filled in with pvc drain tube, also filed in the stakes to make tabbing the stringers easier but that really increases resin use
 

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MC_What have I done?!

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Yes all filled in with pvc drain tube, also filed in the stakes to make tabbing the stringers easier but that really increases resin use

Sorry, I really just dived head first into boat project like 2 weeks ago so forgive my ignorance. What do you mean by filled in the stakes? I’m a one manned band so if there is something I can do to make it easier then bring it on. LOL

Also, that transom looks good! I bet that was a moment of relief and pride taking that picture with the new Transom attached!
 

GCartwright

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Jul 1, 2012
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149
Sorry, meant to say strakes which are the channels running along the bottom of the hull. I started to fill them in in the 2nd picture near the transom.
Filling them in with pb can make it easier to tab the stringers because of the sharp angles in these strakes
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
101
Sorry, meant to say strakes which are the channels running along the bottom of the hull. I started to fill them in in the 2nd picture near the transom.
Filling them in with pb can make it easier to tab the stringers because of the sharp angles in these strakes

I see what you mean now, and hadn't thought of that, my Sea Ray only had 1 set of stringers but they are very close to the strakes. I am going to form out the entire boat layout with the pink foam insulation before cutting any ply, when I do that I mock up as if I was doing the tabbing to see if that will help. I should only have to do it on 2 strakes though, one for each stringer.
 

MC_What have I done?!

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Jun 8, 2019
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Just a quick update, about 95% done with the sanding! Been a long couple of days working my normal job then putting 5 or more hours a night in on the boat! I will post pictures later.
 

MC_What have I done?!

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MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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I need some advice, I have read so many forum threads and websites about what wood I should use but almost everyone says something different, some even by the same people.

I checked my Local Lowe’s last night and they don’t stock anything in exterior grade except the normal roof decking which I know has way to many voids.

They do however stock nicer grades of ply for hardwood cabinets and such but none of it said it was exterior rated. If I properly prepare this type of ply by letting the poly resin soak in then do a layer of csm and resin before installing and glassing onto the hull, would this type of ply be ok to use? I don’t want to add a bunch of weight so I’m not going to use heavy wood but I don’t have many options around here that I have found.
 

Mad Props

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Don't use hardwood ply... Either find a lumber dealer and by marine grade BS1088 rated plywood (lots of money) or do what pretty much everyone here does and use either BCX or ACX(if you can find it) from the big box stores...

Hardwood ply does not use waterproof glue and no matter how well you seal it with polyester or epoxy resin, over time it will still absorb moisture and lose its structure.

I used BCX on mine for the transom, however, I used 1/2" MDO ply for my floor and seat box structures. MDO is an exterior rated plywood that has a resin impregnated face on it... Its used a lot for road signs/etc
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
101
Don't use hardwood ply... Either find a lumber dealer and by marine grade BS1088 rated plywood (lots of money) or do what pretty much everyone here does and use either BCX or ACX(if you can find it) from the big box stores...

Hardwood ply does not use waterproof glue and no matter how well you seal it with polyester or epoxy resin, over time it will still absorb moisture and lose its structure.

I used BCX on mine for the transom, however, I used 1/2" MDO ply for my floor and seat box structures. MDO is an exterior rated plywood that has a resin impregnated face on it... Its used a lot for road signs/etc

My local Menards store carries both bcx and acx in stock, I am assuming that BCX is slightly lesser quality than ACX? Neither are extremely pricey, so that’s great!

For the decking, is MDO the better choice because it is lighter or just cheaper? I don’t see anything labeled as MDO or HDO either so I’m not sure how to tell, I also haven’t asked anyone if they have it yet though.
 

MC_What have I done?!

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jun 8, 2019
Messages
101
OK, here is the outline of my build plan, I am putting it out here for you guys to answer a couple questions that I have not found a clear answer for on Friscoboaters videos or other threads on the forums. If I am going to do something completely wrong please say so, I would rather do this now and build it right than to find out I really screwed up afterwards. I will be placing my fiberglass order tomorrow afternoon, hopefully after you guys tell me if I am on the right track. Don't beat me up to badly, this is my first boat and rebuild and I want to do it correctly but reasonable. :)

Here it goes....


Transom
Hull thickness is ¼ inch
Cut two 3/4 inch and one ¼ inch using Transom Template
Fit to make sure it is correct
Glue and clamp together, 3/4 – 1/4 – 3/4 Let cure
Sand so all 3 pieces are uniform
Fit again to make sure it is perfect / trace keyhole
Keyhole cutout
Poly resin layer to absorb
1.5 oz csm layer with resin on Transom Back(against hull)
Do I use wax or no wax resin for this layer?
1.5 oz csm layer using resin with no wax on Transom Front

Transom Install
Install / glue / clamp / cure
Filet / Tabbing with 1708 Stripes
Should I drill Gimbal mount holes and Steering clearance at this time or wait until it is all Glassed in and cured?
Glass until required 2” to 2 ¼” thickness
Alternate layers, 1708 – CSM – 1708 – CSM – 1708 – CSM – 1708 – CSM (last layer of CSM to help have a smoother finish

Stringers
Pre install
Cut Stringers using created templates
Dry fit stringers in boat and adjust as needed then remove
Glassing
Resin layer and let absorb
CSM layer

Stringer Install
Install / Attach to Hull
Not sure if I should use PB or adhesive – I do not want to use PL because of the extended cure time needed.
Filet / Tabbing with 1708
Glass with 2 layers of 1708
Alternating layers, 1708 – CSM – 1708
Do I use wax or no wax resin on final layer?

Decking
Pre Install
Cut Decking using created templates
Dry fit decking and adjust as needed
Cut out Ski Locker and Fuel tank sending unit cover holes
Final dry fit and remove
Glassing
Resin layer and let absorb
Decking Backside
CSM Layer with waxed resin

Decking Install
Filet / Tabbing with 1708 Strips
Glass with 2 layers of CSM and 1 layer of 6oz cloth and no wax resin
Gel Coat entire Hull
 
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