89 BL Capri resto help

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Don’t order a lot. Maybe a quart sized tub

well where i ordered from went by pounds soooooo i ordered the second smallest and got 10#.... also i know i will need to use it in a bunch of places (stingers, bulk heads, bow seats that will also be bow dry storage areas. 10# may be too much but oh well.
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 4, 2019
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well heck boys and gals, the goodies should be here thursday for glassing..... cannot wait to get it all. need to really knock out the sanding down on this girl today and tomorrow. along with some wood tomorrow for stingers and bulk heads. which this boat really didn't have bulk heads as much as it just had cross supports between the stingers. really the only bulk heads (2 of them) were more for the battery compartment and base for the seats....
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
I mount the seats using fiberglass angles (search online) and the same epoxy. I epoxy the angle to the deck, then screw through the angles into the seat box sides. This all assumes you are using a box seat, which I have on both of mine. I also make fiberglass hard points for things like batteries that do not have screws going thru the deck. Last ones I made were actually from leftover seacast.

ok you have my gears turning here about seats cause i need to think this through.

1) what the heck are box seats? the seats i have been eyeing are some box store specials pro of the bass's have some that i like with a center console with compartment. i have found others like it in cheaper places, thats just an example and easiest to trick the bots on here.

2) you do what with the angles? maybe if i knew what you meant by box seat i would be catching on quicker....

thanks for clarifying, Zack
 

Mad Props

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,766
Looks like a good order... Odds are you will need more of something (especially resin) but its good to order as needed... I had to throw away 2 gallons of gelcoat because I didn't use it within a years time and I didn't wanna risk using bad stuff.

One other recommendation would be to pick up a fiberglass fin roller (bubble buster)... It helps a lot in getting the bubbles out and the resin fully wetted.
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 4, 2019
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Redtruck12 never mind my friend i figured out what Box seats are. a buddy next to me pulled them up. now i would love to use those, but the issue i would have is that the floor doesnt support using them. the original seats were part of a bulkhead and then foamed in underneath. i plan on keeping the floor the same height and building the "Bulkhead seat box" to the same spec but a bit taller, didnt like the low sitting in the boat feel the original had and i am tall which doesnt help.
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Looks like a good order... Odds are you will need more of something (especially resin) but its good to order as needed... I had to throw away 2 gallons of gelcoat because I didn't use it within a years time and I didn't wanna risk using bad stuff.

One other recommendation would be to pick up a fiberglass fin roller (bubble buster)... It helps a lot in getting the bubbles out and the resin fully wetted.

i wanted to try FriscoBoaters method for the application process first, then if needed i will be for sure. and i know i will need more resin for sure. especially if i have to add to the transom (trying to put a 115 on this girl).
 

Mad Props

Lieutenant Commander
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Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,766
i wanted to try FriscoBoaters method for the application process first, then if needed i will be for sure. and i know i will need more resin for sure. especially if i have to add to the transom (trying to put a 115 on this girl).

Jays method of rolling out and then using a chip brush will work great, I just got sick of buying and throwing out chip brushes. Plus the fin rollers end up actually being much faster... You'll find what works best for you and go with it... Just offering suggestion!
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Jays method of rolling out and then using a chip brush will work great, I just got sick of buying and throwing out chip brushes. Plus the fin rollers end up actually being much faster... You'll find what works best for you and go with it... Just offering suggestion!

i know and they are much appreciated! i was going to order a bubble buster then i saw that my order would be here by Thursday so now i am in a rush to an extent lol with the resin shipping i thought i would have been saturday or monday lol
 

chevymaher

Commander
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Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,915
i don't believe my stingers are longer than 8', but if they are i may stick with dimensional limber, the reason being is the idea of splicing together wood, one, makes me nervous, and two, i don't think i have the available room to or oneside would be screwed together and not both. the stinger sides that are to the outsides, really sit in a channel in this hull and cannot be thicker than what it currently is. bu we will see and il get more measurements tonight.

I used dimensional lumber.

One all plywood was gone once it is wet it falls apart and turns to mulch real fast. Wood held up to water much better. 3/4 of wood was still good. And it was exposed to the same amount of water as the plywood. My reckoning was it can't be stronger if it isn't there anymore.

Two the joint it would have to have I also didn't like.

Three it lasted 30 years with it and was still a usable boat when I took it apart. When I was doing mine that was the catch all phrase everyone was using for the use of wood over composits. "It lasted 30 plus years" Hell in 30 years I be almost 100.

Boat be fine the way it was originally made with 1708 in layers where it was only csm with a chop gun before. That alone is 12X stronger than it was according to CSM to 1708 rating. Wood isn't even in the running for strength at that point anymore. Careful layups and all sealed. Heck my son probably have this thing most of his life when I go to the Siren myself.

Mine has been out in the river it is a very quiet tank. Just make your call and go with it. Smile as you cruise your new better than new boat.
 

dezmond

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
760
Box or 2 of gloves, lots of chip brushes, talc for your hands, mixing cups, paint stir sticks, scissors, second pair of scissors, paper towels, good respirator.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
This is how I make my seat mount. Fiberglass angle glued to the deck with west-systems 6-ten. No holes in the deck and excellent strength. Depending on your seat configuration might not work for you. I just call them box seats since they have a wooden base that make a box. seat moun.jpg
I made my battery hold down and fuel tank hard points with left over seacast. I poured it out 3/4" thick, then later cut it into blocks with tapered sides. I then drilled a hole in them and a larger hole for a countersink on the back side. I then put a couple layers of glass on the top side to reinforce the seacast. I epoxied in a stainless carriage bolt from the bottom side and epoxied them to the deck. I then went over the top with two spices of 1708 to reinforce the entire thing and give it a better bond. Again no holes in the deck and it is super solid.

tank.jpg
Hope that gives you some ideas.
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Box or 2 of gloves, lots of chip brushes, talc for your hands, mixing cups, paint stir sticks, scissors, second pair of scissors, paper towels, good respirator.

lol i got all that besides the chip brushes and stir sticks, thank god for having a body shop next to my automotive shop lol and i will not talc my hands lol the walnut buster at work drys them out enough lol
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
This is how I make my seat mount. Fiberglass angle glued to the deck with west-systems 6-ten. No holes in the deck and excellent strength. Depending on your seat configuration might not work for you. I just call them box seats since they have a wooden base that make a box.
I made my battery hold down and fuel tank hard points with left over seacast. I poured it out 3/4" thick, then later cut it into blocks with tapered sides. I then drilled a hole in them and a larger hole for a countersink on the back side. I then put a couple layers of glass on the top side to reinforce the seacast. I epoxied in a stainless carriage bolt from the bottom side and epoxied them to the deck. I then went over the top with two spices of 1708 to reinforce the entire thing and give it a better bond. Again no holes in the deck and it is super solid.


Hope that gives you some ideas.

thats legit, thanks for the photos! now i know what you mean, now my seat "box" was apart of the battery box bulk head....hmmm, might have to improve on design.....
 

Scherfz1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
well alrighty folks.... so i have kinda hit a speed bump in my project....... i finally found information on my HP rating for this boat.... annnnnnnnd I'm not enthused. it is only rated for 50 HP....... is this something that could be changed depending on what i do to the transom? meaning thickening it, widening it, and well at this point make my own?
 
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