89 BL Capri resto help

[archbuilder]

I would guess yes, just make sure it isn't a waxed resin.

 

[Scherfz1]

I would guess yes, just make sure it isn't a waxed resin.

Ya I found a guy on the web talking about laminating/layup resin and they have to be the same thing due to him using both terms in his explanation of it.

 

[Scherfz1]

so i have been watching a lot of FriscoBoater's videos, why is it he goes through soo much trouble to seal the stingers then drills into them i dont understand this, i get screwing down the floor to the stingers to aid in holding it down but i feel as though you are allowing for the possibility of water intrusion by temperature flux and humidity changes....

 

[Scherfz1]

which my above post sparks another thought, what do yall do to attach the floor to the stingers?

My original thought was that the PB mix at the seams and the fiberglass holding it down to the hull would be more than sufficient as long as the floor sits level and right on the stringers and bulk heads. heck the floor i just pulled out was not attached to the stringers in any way.

 

[Hab]

I tend to agree with you, Im planning on PL glue or subfloor adhesive between the deck and stringers and a few buckets of sand till i get the deck tabbed to the hull. Id like to leave the hardware out of it. It could pull up or bow, when i put in the foam, or when it eventually starts to absorb water. Hopefully by that time its someone else's headache.

 

[Redtruck12]

I’m pretty sure you will find that most will resin any screw holes and fill them over.
i applied my decking with 3M 5200 which is a permanent adhesive. Any screws are only to hold the adhesive until it’s cured, screws then removed and filled with resin. Also any screws holes will be in to highest part of the stringer and will be the last to have water intrusion.
its my understanding that proper attaching and foaming the decking in place will further reduce flex, vibration and reduces noise.
I think of Not securing the decking to be the equivalent of dropping a sheet of plywood on top of the seats in a tinny and setting off into a heavy chop.
setting a couple lawn chairs on top should hold it down

 

[Scherfz1]

Hopefully by that time its someone else's headache.

right! lol but i wouldn't mind passing down my hard work to a child if i ever have one lol

 

[Scherfz1]

alright folks here she is, stingers out, motor off, transom cap off, side panels off as well. i need to get the steering cable out, but i was running out of light and fast so maybe tomorrow before i start to grrrriiinddddd as dezmond would say. i was just getting good with the angle grinder and cutting fiber glass with it too, oh well, as for an oscillating tool, that S*** is for the birds, that thing wouldn't cut microwaved butter, but i digress.

onto some of the attached photos, my stingers look to be made from 1x3's i think..... not quite sure there, the 1" makes sense due to it measuring out at 3/4". but the hight measured out over 3" soooo i think i will need to play with sizing and brows the local Lowes for wood....

transom, good news there, as per sea casts web site and calculator, i will need roughly a single 5gal bucket. so that's good on the pocket book.

as for supplies (glass, resin, tape, etc.)

i am thinking 30 yards of 50" 1.5oz chop strand mat
4 gal of fumed silica
1pt of wax
was thinking i would only need 5gal of 435 resin but i am honestly thinking i will need a lot more so id say 10gal of 435????
also i was thinking i may need some fiberglass cloth tape.... but after seeing some stringer how to's i may not get it....

let me know what yall think with all of this, yall have been a great help so far!!!

zack

 

[steve_h7]

so i have been watching a lot of FriscoBoater's videos, why is it he goes through soo much trouble to seal the stingers then drills into them i dont understand this, i get screwing down the floor to the stingers to aid in holding it down but i feel as though you are allowing for the possibility of water intrusion by temperature flux and humidity changes....

I might be wrong since it's been a while since I've watched his videos, but didn't he attach the deck to cleats he glued to the stringers? I know that's how I did mine... I glued 2 x 2's to the stringers and bulkheads and then attached the deck to those. Nothing was screwed directly into the stringers.

I'm almost at the end of my 3rd 5 gal bucket of 435 and will probably order it by the gallon after this one. I'd order 1708 along with the CSM. I ordered 15 yards of each and I'm getting close to end but I'm out of both and ordered another 5 yards of each. It just seems to be never ending.

I'm looking forward to watching your build!

 

[Scherfz1]

I might be wrong since it's been a while since I've watched his videos, but didn't he attach the deck to cleats he glued to the stringers? I know that's how I did mine... I glued 2 x 2's to the stringers and bulkheads and then attached the deck to those. Nothing was screwed directly into the stringers.

I'm almost at the end of my 3rd 5 gal bucket of 435 and will probably order it by the gallon after this one. I'd order 1708 along with the CSM. I ordered 15 yards of each and I'm getting close to end but I'm out of both and ordered another 5 yards of each. It just seems to be never ending.

I'm looking forward to watching your build!

he used cleats that he flipping screws into the stringers!!!! like hot darn lol why did you just do that lol, he claimed in the build that i was watching, that the places he screwed into would be 100% dry and never see water.... well... my momma told me if you cut a hole in it, its gonna leak......

also how big is the boat you are doing????? my mine is 14 foot i do believe, maybe 16.... need to look at the title again lol. and from watching Frisco, it seems like the 1708 is what really drinks up the resin

 

[archbuilder]

I would get some 1708 along with the CMS I used more 1708 than CMS on my last build. You don't need much 1708 to get things tabbed in, it is very high build. CSM is better for compound curves and waterproofing, 1708 is great for structure. I wouldn't even worry about getting the wax, I have never used it and for what you are doing I don't think you need it. I would say start out with the 5 gallons and plan on buying more as needed. I break all the rules and attach my deck with an epoxy. I use west systems 6-ten. A little pricey but easy peasy, Jamestown also has a similar product, most likely the same thing. put it in a caulking gun, put a bead down then install your deck and put some weights on it over night. Gives you a great bond, and no holes. The holes I think are the most important are the ones everyone puts in the deck after they glass it. I do not put any in my decks. I mount the seats using fiberglass angles (search online) and the same epoxy. I epoxy the angle to the deck, then screw through the angles into the seat box sides. This all assumes you are using a box seat, which I have on both of mine. If you are doing pedistals it gets a bit more tricky but you can still do it. I also make fiberglass hard points for things like batteries that do not have screws going thru the deck. Last ones I made were actually from leftover seacast.

 

[steve_h7]

he used cleats that he flipping screws into the stringers!!!! like hot darn lol why did you just do that lol, he claimed in the build that i was watching, that the places he screwed into would be 100% dry and never see water.... well... my momma told me if you cut a hole in it, its gonna leak......

also how big is the boat you are doing????? my mine is 14 foot i do believe, maybe 16.... need to look at the title again lol. and from watching Frisco, it seems like the 1708 is what really drinks up the resin

Mine is about 18'.
Actually the opposite... the csm really absorbs resin, but it all seems to soak it up pretty quick.

 

[archbuilder]

Ditto on the CMS liking poyl.

 

[Redtruck12]

Your list includes a LOT of CSM which is okay for non structural work and waterproofing with polyester resin but remember it has no true strength. 90 feet is WAY more than you will use in this lifetime

- biaxial cloth /1708 (biaxial with csm backing)
- chopped fibre? (I used 1/4” chop)

Dont worry about the wax you will likely not need it.

I would order what you figure you need to get started, that will give you a better gauge of how quickly you will go through it. I would start with a 20 liter / 5 gallon pail , should get you well into it.
3/4” exterior grade Douglas Fir, plywood is the way almost everyone is going, stronger than dimensional lumber and simple to work with

not it sure what you mean by “735” ??
Assuming it’s polyester, unwaxed, laminating resin because that’s what you need.
if it’s an EEEPOXY. then you need to throw your list out and start all over
How do you plan to gut and prepare the transom for the seacast pour?

 

[Scherfz1]

Your list includes a LOT of CSM which is okay for non structural work and waterproofing with polyester resin but remember it has no true strength. 90 feet is WAY more than you will use in this lifetime

- biaxial cloth /1708 (biaxial with csm backing)
- chopped fibre? (I used 1/4” chop)

Dont worry about the wax you will likely not need it.

I would order what you figure you need to get started, that will give you a better gauge of how quickly you will go through it. I would start with a 20 liter / 5 gallon pail , should get you well into it.
3/4” exterior grade Douglas Fir, plywood is the way almost everyone is going, stronger than dimensional lumber and simple to work with

not it sure what you mean by “735” ??
Assuming it’s polyester, unwaxed, laminating resin because that’s what you need.
if it’s an EEEPOXY. then you need to throw your list out and start all over
How do you plan to gut and prepare the transom for the seacast pour?

Didn’t not realize that the CSM really didn’t provide structural support. and it seems to me that the boat used 90% of it being CSM

435 resin is layup non waxed resin from composites us.

so to gut the transom, I plan on following there directions there but I want to take care of the stingers and get them in there before pouring down the seacast, this is due to the Stringers are on either side of the transom and when I pulled them out, the transom is no longer encapsulated

 

[Scherfz1]

3/4” exterior grade Douglas Fir, plywood is the way almost everyone is going, stronger than dimensional lumber and simple to work with

i don't believe my stingers are longer than 8', but if they are i may stick with dimensional limber, the reason being is the idea of splicing together wood, one, makes me nervous, and two, i don't think i have the available room to or oneside would be screwed together and not both. the stinger sides that are to the outsides, really sit in a channel in this hull and cannot be thicker than what it currently is. bu we will see and il get more measurements tonight.

 

[Scherfz1]

well this morning i ordered
10 yrd 50" 1708
15 yrd 50" CSM
5 gal poly
3 5qts of Fumed silica

this is to get me rolling on the stingers and maybe some floor work, i really just need to get the stingers in and then cast the transom before going any further.

 

[Redtruck12]

Sounds like a good starting order
you did remember MEK hardener?
Only other thing I would advise would be chopped finer to give your P.B. Some strength.
if you do need to make a joint in your wood (whatever you end up using) you can do a sandwich joint that doesn’t extend down to hull depth. It will be plenty strong.

 

[Scherfz1]

Sounds like a good starting order
you did remember MEK hardener?
Only other thing I would advise would be chopped finer to give your P.B. Some strength.
if you do need to make a joint in your wood (whatever you end up using) you can do a sandwich joint that doesn’t extend down to hull depth. It will be plenty strong.

hardener was included with the resin so thats covered thank god, and if adding cat hair to PB what would you recommend?

 

[Redtruck12]

I added 1/4” chopped fibre.

poly has little to no strength and the fumed silica is only a thickening agent.