89 BL Capri resto help

Scherfz1

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well i jut watched his videos on the hole repair. he goes with first csm, 1708 then two more csm.... seeing this is in a stringer bed, i will follow it, but i just hope i dont make it two thick.
 

Redtruck12

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You will soon learn that Fiberglas is one of the most forgiving materials
too thin - no problem just make it thicker

to thick - no problem make it thinner

if if you cannot currently access the exterior you can still do the interior patch work and do the exterior later when you get proper access.
yes you can still grind I would just give it a day or two to fully cure
 

Scherfz1

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You will soon learn that Fiberglas is one of the most forgiving materials
too thin - no problem just make it thicker

to thick - no problem make it thinner

if if you cannot currently access the exterior you can still do the interior patch work and do the exterior later when you get proper access.
yes you can still grind I would just give it a day or two to fully cure

ok not an issue, it will be out side baking under a tarp with ambient temperature during the day of 70+

and i honestly don't know how i would access it, i would need a different trailer at this point, i didn't build a stand due to how my bunks cradled the center and sides really well
 

Scherfz1

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man i am really thinking of calling into my second job to work on the boat lol
 

Scherfz1

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Well today was a productive day, got to play a round of 18 after my half day at work, then came home and leveled out the nice slit in the hull I made the other day, rinsed out and vacuumed out the hull.

now I need to get wood for the stingers, find a drill bit long enough to drill out the transom for cast, re watch some patch and build videos...... hope next week the weather is nice!!!
 

Scherfz1

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So I still had daylight yesterday after my last post and I got bored so I went to Lowe’s, picked up wood for the stingers and respirator filters for the resin.

Then traced and cut the stingers, letting them sit in the garage to adjust to temp, did test fit them and adjusted fitment. They are cherry bro and ready for coating.

laid down the first layer of CSM for the patch over the nice slit I made. Will finish it off hopefully Monday, I have to work today.

Now I just have to pray for good weather this week so I can get stingers and cross members glasses in while I drill out the transom and get it ready for sea cast. And convince a coworker to come over to help me do glass work lol
 

chevymaher

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Mar 29, 2017
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well i jut watched his videos on the hole repair. he goes with first csm, 1708 then two more csm.... seeing this is in a stringer bed, i will follow it, but i just hope i dont make it two thick.

Here is mine. Factory drove 2 staples though the hull barely piercing the gel coat. It leaked for 30 years. I tapered it and used CSM and 2 layers of 1708.
 

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Scherfz1

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chevymaher thats garbage, meaning the factory doing that. Sad how crappy manufactures will allow defects like that..

question for y’all, can I put a hand pump on a 5gal bucket of resin and it be ok? Where I work we have 5gal Pail pumps and though of slamming on in the resin for easier mixing but I didn’t know if it would ruin the resin being left in it and uncapped
 

chevymaher

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If you use it consistently yea that work great. It don't go bad as fast as advertised. I still using what is left of mine to do bodywork on cars. Just keep it shook up and dont let it freeze
 

Scherfz1

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If you use it consistently yea that work great. It don't go bad as fast as advertised. I still using what is left of mine to do bodywork on cars. Just keep it shook up and dont let it freeze

Ok good to know cause yesterday it was sketchy as hell pouring 2oz of resin to start my patch on my custom hole
 

Redtruck12

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Maybe Get a 4litre /gallon jug and refill it as needed from the 5 gallon pail.
i use a cheap plastic measuring cup for measuring each batch
 

Mad Props

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Pouring resin from a 5 gallon jug is dead simple...
lay it on its sidit and roll it so the spout is at the highest point.
put your container on the ground under the spout and slowly rotate the bucket till resin comes out, control the flow by rotating the bucket
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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I don't remember where I saw it but I just tip the bucket over on its side with the pour spout at the top, then roll it left or right slowly till the resin starts to pour. Then just roll it so the spout is at the top again to stop.

Edit: Doh! Sorry.. xposted... Probably saw it on Mad's video!
 
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Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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Pouring resin from a 5 gallon jug is dead simple...
lay it on its sidit and roll it so the spout is at the highest point.
put your container on the ground under the spout and slowly rotate the bucket till resin comes out, control the flow by rotating the bucket

That’s tits of an idea right there lol I will defiantly do this LMFAO
 

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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Question:

when working with 1708, what side should be facing toward what ever you are laminating, meaning when I glass in the stingers. Should I have the CSM toward the wood or have the weaved side toward the wood
 
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