89 BL Capri resto help

[Scherfz1]

If you do it right with wood and glass, it will outlast you

Now I get that but my glassing knowledge is not that great, did small work on helicopter blades but nothing to this scale and it does have me nervous.

 

[Scherfz1]

It isnt a half *** product, just a more expensive product. There is nothing wrong with wood at all, but eventually water will find its way in. I typically build boats with no intention of reselling them. Seacast is really bulletproof, just a cost adder. You have to ask yourself if you are ok with the cost. I can see it being a selling point later but don't count on getting your $ back. Actually if you bought a boat don't count on getting your $ back lol. Its a great product, not sure if it is a time saver, but you will never have to do it again.

Never planned on getting my money back, grandfather told me growing up owning a boat is like going out to the drive way and burning your money, the difference is with the boat you get to have fun doing it..... so that’s how I am approaching the money I spend, at least I am having fun while growing knowledge.....

as for the time saver with the cast I just have to clean out all wood on the transom and stingers, mix pour and recap..... hell with the stingers I have to remove, grind, stencil, cut, shape, glass, bed, glass some more and done.

but now seeing as the stringer should not be touching the deck, I’d have to find some way to keep the cast off of the deck. If the old shape is touching.... but I’ll know more when I clean them out tomorrow. I have to be at this crappy place for 9hrs, they call it work I think??? Basically take my precious time and in return give me pennies for it....

 

[archbuilder]

I have poured seacast stringers directly on the deck. Works fine, it has had 10 years of service without any issues. I think the stringers not touching the deck issue is way over thought.

 

[Redtruck12]

I remember watching some of Friscoboaters videos on his builds. As I recall it was his Searay build.
He had a good trick for tracing the hull contour onto his new stringers. I would recommend anyone doing this job for the first time watching some of his videos. Very well documented and definitely helped me with educating myself for my build.

I can easily see how stringer construction can be VERY confusing for a first timer.
Wood - Foam - hollow - composite - pour in (Seacast) etc.

We have what seem to be some very experienced members who advocate that stringers are nothing more than forms and materials don’t matter.

Others - again very experienced go to the added labour and expense to make stringers rock solid and as solid as possible and pretty much bulletproof!

Who is right? Who’s wrong?
Nobody?
Everybody?
- Is more better?
- Is less better?
- Do we assume that the original manufacturer knows best?

Do we assume that the manufacturer did whatever was cheapest and easiest with the expectation that it only needs to last about 10 years? (common philosophy in automotive manufacturing) and I assume boats too!

Do we assume that the methods and materials used can’t be improved on? Or that there is a “better way”, better materials.

Who knows best? I guess it depends on who you ask

 

[Scherfz1]

Ok another question, laminating resin. What’s the difference? I am surfing the web to find out the difference is but it seems both use MEKP, soooo what’s the difference?

 

[archbuilder]

Laminating resin is non waxed. Waxed resins are for a top or finish coat. The wax allows the very top layer of poly to fully cure. The top surface of laminating resin stays tacky and allows you to go over it without sanding. If you use a waxed resin you have to sand between coats, adds a ton of work.

 

[Redtruck12]

Now I get that but my glassing knowledge is not that great, did small work on helicopter blades but nothing to this scale and it does have me nervous.

I had nearly no experience when I started mine and have no idea about helicopter blades but it’s definitely not rocket science you will quickly figure it out and will definitely do a much better job than the manufacturer.
dont worry. How much, how fast, and generally how works best for you will come. Mistakes can easily be cut out or grinded flat without any big issue.

 

[Scherfz1]

Laminating resin is non waxed. Waxed resins are for a top or finish coat. The wax allows the very top layer of poly to fully cure. The top surface of laminating resin stays tacky and allows you to go over it without sanding. If you use a waxed resin you have to sand between coats, adds a ton of work.

Ok so literally it is the resin composition over and not the hardener, cool makes more sense, I thought it was the hardener that changed it up

 

[Scherfz1]

I had nearly no experience when I started mine and have no idea about helicopter blades but it’s definitely not rocket science you will quickly figure it out and will definitely do a much better job than the manufacturer.
dont worry. How much, how fast, and generally how works best for you will come. Mistakes can easily be cut out or grinded flat without any big issue.

Helo blades were easy lmfao! We had tech pubs for every situation and how to do it step by step, down to measurements for resin and what resin to use lol, and if you didn’t know something, you had your shop to go back to, to find help or someone who has done it before. Main difference is we vacuum bagged the blades to allow resin to harden

 

[chevymaher]

Laminating has no wax the surface stays tacky. So no sanding is needed to put on additional coats of glass.

Finishing resin has wax in it and it is hard dry to the touch when cured. It needs to be sanded before an additional coat is applied for it to bond correctly.

Laminating or layup resin is what you will use in this process.

 

[chevymaher]

Wow explosion of answers.

 

[archbuilder]

Lol! Lots of help on here today. By the way wax can be added to the laminating resin if it is a top coat. The supplier I use includes a bottle of wax. I have never bothered on hull repairs.

 

[Scherfz1]

Yes there is a lot of help today and I cannot thank y’all enough! Sometimes I really hate the internet while other times I love it, but just googleing information for boat repairs just dumps down half arse answers it seems or too many different sceneries and that makes it hard to sift through

 

[archbuilder]

That is the challenge, everyone has different goals, talents and resources. Almost everyone on here and every build does things a little different from everyone else. There is no one size fits all answer!

 

[archbuilder]

By the way you can see how I did a stringer out of seacast on page 2 of my Miss Morgan build in my signature. I also show how I did the transom.

 

[Scherfz1]

So here is another thought that has popped into my mind.

if I just SeaCast the transom, would I want the new stingers backed up too the outside skin of the transom or would I want them backed up to the seacast after it hardens?

 

[archbuilder]

It won't matter either way, the stresses on the hull you are building aren't that great. If it was something you were racing at high speed or something that got hammered in heavy seas than it might be worth some consideration. I would go with whatever is easy, most likely seacasting the transom then butting the wood stringers up to the skin.

 

[Scherfz1]

By the way you can see how I did a stringer out of seacast on page 2 of my Miss Morgan build in my signature. I also show how I did the transom.

Nice on the seacast, I am still tossing ideas around for the stringers, I know I will cast the transom for sure though

 

[Scherfz1]

It won't matter either way, the stresses on the hull you are building aren't that great. If it was something you were racing at high speed or something that got hammered in heavy seas than it might be worth some consideration. I would go with whatever is easy, most likely seacasting the transom then butting the wood stringers up to the skin.

Well don’t get me wrong, I wouldn’t mind hanging a 115-135hp motor off of this boat. Gonna use what I got till it blows up, which I don’t think will take too long being a motor made in 1959......

 

[Scherfz1]

By the way wax can be added to the laminating resin if it is a top coat.

Is laminating resin the same as layup resin correct? Everybody seems to have a slightly different lingo to all of this lol