89 BL Capri resto help

dezmond

dezmond

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 21, 2010
Messages
760
I did my up and over wrapping out of the boat. Then only needed some tabbing. You will get better at it. Go as slow as your resin will allow and all will be good.
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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dezmond said:
I did my up and over wrapping out of the boat. Then only needed some tabbing. You will get better at it. Go as slow as your resin will allow and all will be good.
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I think that was an issue too, pored too much and tired to go too fast
 
archbuilder

archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
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5,697
Nothing wrong with small sections, beats wasting resin and messing things up. Did you put a radius on the corners of the stringers at the top? I small radius makes it a lot easier if you have a square corner up there. I would do like others have said and tab the side, then put the cap on. Try laying the 1708 on top of the stringer before you wet things out and sort of massage it around the sides and top. Doesn't take much pressure just work your hands back and forth on it. It will start to take the shape of the stringer and wrap the corners easier. It has some memory, so even when you lay it flat to wet out the backside before you put it on it will retain the memory. When you put it in place, it will be much easier to get it to lay down around the corners. I would try doing it in 2' or so sections and see how it goes. Just make sure to lap it a few inches. I'm thinking 1 layer of 1708 should be plenty over the top. I would do a couple layers of tabbing, putting the top cap on between layers. Then put a layer of CSM over the cap and down on the the tabbing for some extra waterproofing.
 
Baylinerchuck

Baylinerchuck

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Jul 29, 2016
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2,726
Just like archbuilder stated, make a radius at the top of the stringer.

I tabbed my stringers in stopping about an inch from the top on the last layer of 1708. I did two layers of 1708. Like Arch said, when capping the stringer, wet the top first, then gently work the glass over. I used plastic sheet strips and small spring clamps to hold the CSM down until it kicked. See the picture below. This actually worked really well. I capped the stringers using CSM.

Click image for larger version Name: 9B7F5DC9-10C6-413D-B4B6-FE08239EC374.jpeg Views: 1 Size: 404.2 KB ID: 10758079
 
Baylinerchuck

Baylinerchuck

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Scherfz1 said:
once the bulkheads, trays, cross supports are in, i can start to make the floor and get that going. Here is a question for the floor deal and things above the floor..... if you look back at some of the original photos before I tore the boat apart, on the Stern of the boat on either sides of the boat there were these square boxes that butted up to the partial transom and To the sides of the boat with the fuel cell tray in between them. They then were filled with foam..... question is, how essential are these boxes to go back into the boat? Reason I ask is because they take up some decent usable space, but because they are right there next to the partial transom, should they go back in due to structural support? Another thought of mine has been to just re enforce the stern with laminated ply wood and to tab them in to make up for not installing them back but I need some other thoughts about this....
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The boxes of foam were necessary for the overall buoyancy calculation of the boat. Boats under 20’ have to have enough flotation foam to keep them from sinking if swamped. Lots of manufacturers used foam in seat boxes, bow boxes, under the floor, and under gunwales and other compartments to meet this requirement. This was a manufacturer requirement. Foam under the floor creates an incredible amount of rigidity and lateral support for the deck.
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Thanks for all the advice and ideas guys!!!!

so last night after the resin kicked and hardened, about 3hrs after applying, I started to grind down the bubbles and wrinkles in the stringers... when I was taking off bubbles at the caps I realized the tops were really the only main problem, excluding a few spots on the sides.... but once I de capped the tops of the stingers where I thought I had bubbles on the sides, it came apparent that the tops were really the only issue.

so double checked it this morning, and the glass is laying right on the hull and up the sides (minus a few spots), so I am going to cap the stingers in, let it kick then re tab in the few spots that I had to grind away, the sides that had to be taken down was my first stretch of glass (it was horrid) and both tips of the stringers towards the bow where it tapers off
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Messages
238
alright y'all, i got the stringers encased in glass yesterday, i did have a couple small air bubbles i could not for the life of me get out. but they are 100 times better than my first attempt...

big shout out to the GF for helping me do this, and she's a lot better at applying resin than i am, she just slapped and lathered up the glass better than i, i believe i am too stingy with the amount of resin i was applying. but they are in and thats all that matters.

so hopefully tomorrow i will be drilling out and casting the transom, along with cutting out fuel cell and battery platforms glassing them and then bedding them in. just have to hope its sunny and 75, saturday we are expecting rain for central Ky.
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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kcassells said:
Dang... you have a fellow Iboater Bro in Kantuckey. Kickin some butt on his boat too!
chevymaher
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yep we have linked up lol and ya i a trying to keep it going, GF keeps running here **** holster about not being on the water but dont want to work on it with me till i am ready to do "interior work", which translates to "ill pick the vinyl colors and you cover and stitch them up while i watch".......
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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well to day i will not be working on the boat like i want to, god bless rain delay for the next three days.....
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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238
kcassells said:
Gots to tarp it off.
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Has a tarp over it no matter what the weather is, what was nice when glassing is once I was done with what ever I was doing, throw the tarp over to help the resin kick and harden faster.
 
kcassells

kcassells

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Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,598
RU able to work under the tarp?

PICT0003_zps5e440138.jpg
 
Scherfz1

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
I wish I could work under the tarp and I could I would have to make something or get something to pop up the tarp
 
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