Hi everyone,
I bought a 16'2" MirroCraft that is probably 20-30 years at least and I am in the process of replacing the rotted transom plywood. The space between the knee brace and the transom sheet metal is 1.25" so I'll use two pieces of 5/8" glued together with epoxy.
I think this utility boat was made for a long shaft as you can see in the picture below. (I'll add the picture tomorrow)
The highest part of the transom near the handles is 24" high. The factory made notch was 21" and the homemade notch is 14.5".
The outboard I have is a short shaft 1971 Johnson 25HP (25R71). The distance between the cavitation plate and the bracket that rests on the transom is 17.5".
Is it ok to cut the plywood higher than the aluminum? I would prefer to have the highest transom possible (24") except a 17.5" cut out for the outboard. I would use something like 3M 4200 between the plywood and the aluminum skin.
Thanks
Alex
I bought a 16'2" MirroCraft that is probably 20-30 years at least and I am in the process of replacing the rotted transom plywood. The space between the knee brace and the transom sheet metal is 1.25" so I'll use two pieces of 5/8" glued together with epoxy.
I think this utility boat was made for a long shaft as you can see in the picture below. (I'll add the picture tomorrow)
The highest part of the transom near the handles is 24" high. The factory made notch was 21" and the homemade notch is 14.5".
The outboard I have is a short shaft 1971 Johnson 25HP (25R71). The distance between the cavitation plate and the bracket that rests on the transom is 17.5".
Is it ok to cut the plywood higher than the aluminum? I would prefer to have the highest transom possible (24") except a 17.5" cut out for the outboard. I would use something like 3M 4200 between the plywood and the aluminum skin.
Thanks
Alex