New Member & Glassmaster Project Info

bnmueller

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
20
Hello all,
Wanted to introduce myself and my new project. I am relatively new to boats so I am hoping to learn a lot from this community and help hold myself accountable for getting the project done by sharing the process with you. The project is a late 80's Glassmaster. I believe the model is S-179. It currently has a 90hp Mercury attached which I'm told runs well. So far the project has been pretty uneventful, though I'm starting to run into a few areas where I'll need some insight. I'll be making some videos of the process as well which I'll share as I go. For now here are a few shots of us getting the trailer rolling and bringing her home.
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,546
Welcome aboard.

this is one of the best places for DIY information on boat restoration.

do not be surprised if you end up with a full restoration with the amount of mildew in the pics.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
Well :welcome: aboard bnmueller. Great to have you join us...

Looks like a nice project to me. And when it is finished, you will certainly be proud of your efforts too.

What are your plans for it? I realize cleaning it out comes first. But are there any soft spots on the floor or any issues with the transom?

Let us know what you are going to do and we can offer suggestions and ideas to get you there...
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Welcome to the madness that is boat restoration. Take your time, follow the advice given and don't be in a hurry to get her wet. You'll be happy that you took your time and did it right in the long run. Ask me how I know...…..
 

Kirche

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
12
Welcome! I am a newbie on my first project boat too, good luck and look forward to your progress!
 

bnmueller

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
20
Thank you all for the warm welcome. gm280 I wasn't sure how far I wanted to take it at first but I'm the kind of guy that tends to over-engineer everything, so I'm sure there won't be any part of the boat that goes untouched. Uploaded a little video of the second day of work on the boat. So glad to have a place to share this journey as I know I will need the help along the way.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
Thank you all for the warm welcome. gm280 I wasn't sure how far I wanted to take it at first but I'm the kind of guy that tends to over-engineer everything, so I'm sure there won't be any part of the boat that goes untouched. Uploaded a little video of the second day of work on the boat. So glad to have a place to share this journey as I know I will need the help along the way.

Well first thing I have to say is, I really like your boat and can easily see a nice refurbished project.

Since the floor, stringers are for sure rotted, the transom is as well. So floor, stringers and transom redo. Sounds like most every boat project that gets posted on these forums. So you are certainly not alone with this.

The worst part is removing all the dirty, stinky, smell, itchy, rotted wood and then grinding the hull down reading it for new structure. But that is how it works and while that sounds scary, if I can do it, anybody can.

And remember this, all that rotted wood is carrying WATER and making that hull weigh way more then it should. So you will also be making the boat lighter as well.

Take tons of pictures before and during the demolition. You will be surprised how many times you will refer to them down the road.

Have you thought about what type resins you will use to rebuild the hull with yet? There is basically two types, polyester and epoxy. A good many chose polyester because most hulls are made out of polyester and they work very well together. But that choice is yours.

Read some project threads on these forums and see what is in store for you. At least you can see that the work ahead of you is very doable. And keep posting pictures/videos and we can offer assistance. :thumb:

You can link to any of my projects from the links posted below, if you like.
 

bnmueller

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
20
gm280 I think I’m leaning more towards epoxy. I’ve done a bit of research but is there a reason that so many people seem to choose polyester?

I wad able to get a fair bit of the deck cut out. I’m sure that the transom will need to be replaced as well. I’m not sure I’m seeing a way to replace it without removing the top cap. Doing so would be pretty challenging for me in regrades to work space. Are there any reasonable alternatives to this?

Here’s a little update video:
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,915
Don't know about the rest of the world. But the fact nothing sticks to epoxy. Gel coat or more glass in the future. Is it really the last time you will need to do something. Polyester is what it is made of. I have seen what is considered a weak boat being destroyed for the dump. It literally bogs a bulldozer down crushing it. How much strength do you really need? I like gel coat and fixing things bonuses to me.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
gm280 I think I’m leaning more towards epoxy. I’ve done a bit of research but is there a reason that so many people seem to choose polyester?

I wad able to get a fair bit of the deck cut out. I’m sure that the transom will need to be replaced as well. I’m not sure I’m seeing a way to replace it without removing the top cap. Doing so would be pretty challenging for me in regrades to work space. Are there any reasonable alternatives to this?

Here’s a little update video:

Okay, I just watched your video and you are certainly at a point of no return now. But that is a good thing. Yes every piece of rotted wood HAS to be removed. But, once you do get it all removed, then the new structure can start to go in.

The reason so many use polyester is because your boat was originally built using polyester resin. And there for any new structure will attach easily to the glass remaining even after you grind/fair the old fiberglass edges for new wood.

I would do some more testing now that you have the stringers open.take a drill, usually a 1/4" bit works well, and as close to the bottom of the stringer you can drill, drill a few holes into those remaining stringers. But not all the way through them, only in a little bit, maybe half way in.

If you get light colored DRY wood shavings out of them, you are good to go with the rebuild. If you get dark colored and/or wet shavings out of the drill holes, they are also rotted even if they feel solid. And they will certainly need replaced as well. Do the same for the transom at the bottom of it. Same issues apply also. I will be very surprised if the transom in not rotted.

As for replacing the transom without removing the top cap, some boaters have cut the top cap off only at the back transom area to replace it. There are some threads on these forums showing that. You can cut about a couple feet in front of the transom to give yourself plenty of room to replace the transom and then reattach the rear top cap and fair in in perfectly. Not a problem at all.

Hose front console sections can be removed maybe even in one piece. Then you can evaluate if they are rotted or structurally sound. If they are, you can sand them and do whatever you want to do to them before reinstalling them back in place. And if they are rotted, you can easily duplicate them pretty easy out of the boat. Just an idea.

Whatever YOU decide to use, be it epoxy or poly, you have to understand what will work and won't work for even the finishes. If you have plans to go the gel coat route, I would certainly use polyester for all the structural work as well. But that is just me... Keep posting and asking questions. And remember there is no "one way only" to do anything...
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,435
There are reasons for both poly and epoxy really ..
poly - it’s what the boat is made out of , it’s a good bit cheaper to buy , It cures faster , gell coat is made to stick to it .
downside - it smells really bad and in most cases you should use a respirator. If your garage is attached to the house the Admiral may not like the smell ..
epoxy - stronger and all you will need is fiberglass cloth no csm is needed , no issues with smell so it’s Admiral friendly :)
​​​​​​, adheres really well to most everything ..
downside - more expensive, takes a bit longer to cure so it will have a tendency to run or sag a bit on vertical applications , gell coat doesn’t like to stick to it very well as any poly based product . Is not rated for UV’s so will need to be painted .
And did I mention cost ...:lol:
So choose your poison and good luck !
Btw , make sure you use the proper PPE .. A good respirator is a must for grinding glass .. Those little paper dust mask are no good and will not protect your lungs at all ...
 

steve_h7

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
401
Subscribed to your YT channel. :thumb:
Welcome aboard!
I cut my splash well out and left the cap intact but of course I have yet to rebuild it so the jury is still out if I made a wise choice. :)
 

bnmueller

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
20
steve_h7 Thanks for the subscription!

Got a few hours with the boat today and made a little progress.

Anyone know what this hose is here for. It seems to be an actual garden hose.
 

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gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
A little video of today's work:

Glad to see you continuing with this project. By now I suspect you realize that old fiberglass can be really sharp and you have to watch where you put your hands to keep from getting cut and scraped. One other thing, when you start to literally grind the old fiberglass out in prep for new glass, buy a Tyvek suit. You will thank yourself over and over for that, believe me.

Some times a fan helps keep the fiberglass cloud at bay as well. You don't have to de-cap the entire boat. You can cut the back area enough to access the transom and splash-well area and then recap that area. Just a thought.

I would like to follow you along on your project if that is okay...
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Garden hose was to ventilate below decks to allow for expansion and contraction

plus a boat deck (floor) could get hot in the sun, bottom of the hull cool from lake water producing condescension in the air trapped below decks.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,435
Nice progress getting started .. If you have a tough time getting all of the wood out of the the stringer channel . I would suggest a chainsaw if you have one and are comfortable using one .. This video was me doing just that on my son in laws
Glassmaster tri hull a few years back .. You can hear the chain when it makes contact with the glass so you ease up a bit on the pressure .. I was getting no where with a hammer and chisel... 15 mins with the chain saw and it was done ..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ygmV1q1jIzQ
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,592
Nice progress getting started .. If you have a tough time getting all of the wood out of the the stringer channel . I would suggest a chainsaw if you have one and are comfortable using one .. This video was me doing just that on my son in laws
Glassmaster tri hull a few years back .. You can hear the chain when it makes contact with the glass so you ease up a bit on the pressure .. I was getting no where with a hammer and chisel... 15 mins with the chain saw and it was done ..
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ygmV1q1jIzQ

Yea, but can you make a bear from a wood stump.... lol :pound::pound::pound:
 

bnmueller

Cadet
Joined
Apr 15, 2019
Messages
20
gm280, I'm happy to have you along for the ride.

sphelps, I was thinking of using one the woodcarving discs with my grinder. Feel like I would have better control.
 

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