Water getting in.........

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Fraid I don't remember anything about the transom plate in particular. They are all basically the same, from early Alpha1 up to late Gen 2s. I do know that 1/8th inch flatness in the transom was not near good enough to seal the gimbal housing on my transom repair. I used a feeler gauge and ended up sanding some of the gel coat. Even then I had to tighten the inner bolts and nuts further to get it to seal.
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
Joined
Apr 18, 2016
Messages
4,210
I still used 4200 around it to make sure i had a good seal too much work to do to not have some extra sealing capability imho
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
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6,118
I still used 4200 around it to make sure i had a good seal too much work to do to not have some extra sealing capability imho

Can't disagree. At the point I retightened I would have had to pull it all the way back apart again. I wanted to go boating :^) Done again, I would pos-def use a little 4200 on the seal.
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Well, I'm still alive. Since my 2019 work season kicked in on March 8th. I've only been home for one full day and that was taken up on a hospital visit! I finally got home on Saturday and started playing "catch up" before getting back to the boat today. Not a lot done, but I got the recesses cut out for the steering arm and got the first coat of glass onto the inside of the inner transom board. This had already been tabbed in and now it's at least sealed up somewhat. A few more layers and then I can move onto the stringers and engine mount stringers/supports.

I ran out of catalyst so another delay and I'll be heading off again on Wednesday for the next 11 days. This was why I was trying to get as much done as possible before my work season started and why I was frustrated when the weather turned cold and wet. Too cold and wet for glassing. But that's how it is.

I've included a picture of what I think is a Sea Hog, looking in a bad way. It was moored in a canal alongside the river Corrib, which flows through Galway city, in the west of Ireland. The amount of rain we'd had was obvious by the flow. The Sea Hog's neighbour doesn't seem to be sitting very level either, hanging low at the stern, or possibly just hung up slightly at the bow. Anyone fancy a project?



Sea hog 2.jpg
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
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Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
No thanks on the project boats! Nothing like sunken hulls for rebuilds.

Glad you're alive and well. I figured you gave up and decided to do something saner than working on a boat.We all have our mental issues though. Keep posting as you go. It's an interesting project.

Rick
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Thanks for the words of encouragement. Working on the boat is the only thing I know that can drive you crazy while at the same time preserves your sanity. I'm on the road again tomorrow for the next eleven days, so don't expect any updates. But we're getting there!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,576
Thing about boats ….there always there when you come back, even if sunk!
Always something to do and always better.
Belated Happy St. Patty's Day.
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
This business of earning a living can really get in the way of your hobbies! anyway, I'm back home and getting some bits done, including stripping down my old gimble housing, removing the hydraulic lines and manifold, along with the shaft that the rams bolt onto, as there wasn't one with the replacement housing that I got. I'm also glassing the transom, still, and hope to move on to the stringers next. When they're all finished and solid, I'll start on the engine mount stringers. I want to keep things solid and stable as I go along, so I don't want to rip out everything in one go. Watch this space...….
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
So, I finally got some time along with some good weather and got the last of the glassing done on the transom, with just a strip to do along the top edge. I also have to trim the glass from the keyhole. I finished it off in woven, which I think is recommended and will take a paint finish better. Next I'll start cutting out the stringers, so watch this space! It feels comforting to know it's done, probably better than the original and will add years to the boats life.
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Back at the awkward, itchy, dusty stuff today, as I started on the port side stringer. As mentioned, I'm doing one side at a time, mostly to maintain structural integrity, not that there was much of that present, considering the state of things.
I've cut away the outer glass and removed the mush/wood that was once stringer and ground back the surrounding gel coat to facilitate the glassing. I have the port side ready to start forming the actual stringers and I'll use them as templates for the starboard side, as it's a mirror image, or pretty much so. I'll be using 3/4" marine ply, like I used in the transom.
So, the fun continues...………………... Stringer rot.jpgStringer cleaned.jpgStringer rot 2.jpgTransom done.jpg
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Thankfully the weather has started to improve and I got a bit done today. But after tomorrow, I'm on the road again, just as we've gotten a forecast for dry sunny weather. Hey ho, it's how it is. Today I got the short stringer sections cut, which took a bit of fettling. I made a cardboard template and finished up with a good fit. Then I flipped the template and cut the opposite side/mirror image section.

This is the short section that runs from the side of the boat, towards the middle, meeting the long, front to back, stringer. On the original, this short section stopped short of the floor. This can be seen on the picture and this is where I cut away the floor section to get access to the transom. I'll be rebuilding this floor section as it's where the battery sits and is replicated on the opposite side. To this end, I intend to make this stringer section "full height" giving more support to the floor/batteries. So I cut away the upper lip of glass that ran over the top of the old stringer to allow the new stringer to run up to it's full height. Any gaps will be taken up with bedding it in with peanut butter.

Any reason why I shouldn't do it this way? It just seems to make more sense to me. Tomorrow I hope to cut and possibly fit the long stringer on the port side and after it's all fully fixed and set, I can start cutting away the mush etc. on the starboard side and repeat the process.
Stringer ready.jpgReplacement stringer.jpg
 

Rick Stephens

Admiral
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
6,118
Sounds good. There ain't no wrong way unless you capture water or put something in the way of something else. If you are going to capture water just add a piece of PVC for a drain.
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,576
Yup....looks like typical factory push it out crap. Going full height is the ticket says I!
Go make some sales on the road trip to pay for the rehab!;)
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Got home yesterday and today I got my stringers cut out and did a dry fit on the port side. All good so far, including the angle for the transom and the angle cut along the bottom edges to sit snug to the angle in the hull. I also included the cut out for drainage, fitted with a piece of pipe as suggested. All the glass is cut out and ready to go and the stringers have been liberally soaked in resin on the inner sides. So, next a mix of "peanut butter" along the bottom and I'll tab in the port side first, repeating the process on the starboard side, once the port side is all finished and set solid. Still lots to do, but we're getting there, I hope...……. Stringer 1.jpgStringer 2.jpg
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
So I got the port stringer tabbed in along with the short section at the transom end. It's wedged in place while it sets up and will be ready for glassing tomorrow, although the weather forecast says otherwise. Almost ready to start repeating the process on the starboard side, but at least I already have the plywood cut out and resined, so it should go a bit quicker. (lol) Stringer tabbed 1.jpgStringer tabbed 2.jpg
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
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Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,576
Can't tell but you should wet out all the wood and edges prior to placement. Fill any voids although the wood looks like board not ply. Ply is more structural. Fill holes with pb prior to glassing.
The reason to do the above note isbecause the dry wood will suck in the resin if it's not wetted out prior and the bond is useless cause the glass are not be sticking. :rolleyes:
 

sogood

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
361
Can't tell but you should wet out all the wood and edges prior to placement. Fill any voids although the wood looks like board not ply. Ply is more structural. Fill holes with pb prior to glassing.
The reason to do the above note isbecause the dry wood will suck in the resin if it's not wetted out prior and the bond is useless cause the glass are not be sticking. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the input and yes, it is ply that I'm using. All of it got a good coat of resin beforehand, except for the outside of the main stringer. This got a coat of resin to seal it before the tabbing was done and the rest will be coated/ sealed before glassing it in. The top edge of the stringer at the transom had almost dried out before I got the glass on it, so it didn't soak through fully, but this can be sorted out when I'm finishing it off. Thanks again for the response.
 
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