2000 Alumacraft 185 Trophy Transom Replacement

TommyVM

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
9
Well I have searched on here for answers to my specific questions, but have not found any. I am starting to tear into my boat to replace the transom on my Alumacraft 185 Trophy. I have the motor off and most of the fasteners removed, but I can't get to the backside of the last ten bolts. They are behind the battery compartment and livewell and there is another vertical piece of aluminum behind these anyways. I sent an email to Alumacraft asking for more information and they told me I have to remove the splash well and basically the whole aft end of the boat. Not sure if I am over my head or not on this job. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Picky fisher

Cadet
Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
17
If ya can't see the nut on the back side of the transom then you must continue to disassemble the boat until visible. Sounds like you already no that ya have to remove splash well to access the hidden fasteners. Take lots of pics for refrence and take your time on the process.if your unsure of anything take some more pics and post them i am sure alot of guys can offer advice to help ya.
 

TommyVM

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Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
9
Well I have been a little frustrated lately and am finally getting back to this again. I took the covers off the battery box and the livewell in order to get a better idea of how the back of this boat is put together. The splashwell is not mechanically fastened to the sides and the inside transom skin, but with some kind of epoxy or 3M sealant. I am worried about the rivets holding the motor support and removing these. It also looks like the area I am trying to get into for the back of the remaining transom bolts is filled with foam.
 

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Blue Fin 19

Recruit
Joined
Nov 25, 2013
Messages
1
Well I have searched on here for answers to my specific questions, but have not found any. I am starting to tear into my boat to replace the transom on my Alumacraft 185 Trophy. I have the motor off and most of the fasteners removed, but I can't get to the backside of the last ten bolts. They are behind the battery compartment and livewell and there is another vertical piece of aluminum behind these anyways. I sent an email to Alumacraft asking for more information and they told me I have to remove the splash well and basically the whole aft end of the boat. Not sure if I am over my head or not on this job. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My aluminum transom was weak and did not leak so I merely used stainless threaded rod as the top 2 bolts holding my 300 lb motor. I welded a nut to one end as a hex head and then ran the rod through the transom and the splash well directly in front for added support. I placed a nut at the front of the transom and inside the splash well. Adding a block of wood to fit inside splash well for added support helps as well. I covered the exposed threaded rod with black irrigation tubing during assembly for a smooth surface. It has worked perfectly! And So Much Easier!
 
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Picky fisher

Cadet
Joined
Dec 30, 2018
Messages
17
Looking at your first pic you have along way to go still with dismantling. Those motor mounts need to be drilled out and re-riveted when re-assembled. That transom goes along way down its to bad shes gone bad its a shame cause the boat isn't that old.when u get all the stuff taken out on back hopefully u can swing out the old transom without having to mess with gunnels.
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,829
BlueFin's easier method isnt recommended, esp if the transom plywood is soft.....
 

TommyVM

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
9
Well after a year I finally got back to the boat project. I was able after a couple of days work to finally get the rotten transom wood out. It wasn't pretty and I hacked up the aluminum pretty good getting through the many screws Alumacraft used to assemble this boat. Now I may regret getting this deep into it as I have found out the aluminum is very corroded. These pictures were taken right after I got it apart. I took the wire wheel to the corrosion and cleaned it up some. Some of the pits are pretty deep and may be completely through.

What do you suggest to stop the corrosion and fill in the pitting?
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,307
if the pits are deeper than .020", you will need to have a new transom skin made
 

TommyVM

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
9
Well the transom is glued up and now I am trying to get it to fit back in the boat. Had to do a little more destruction of the gunwale on one one side to fit the transom back in. Was about 4" short of getting it back into the boat, I guess I need to do a little shaping to get it to fit. I used PC-Products PC-11 Two-Part Marine Grade epoxy to patch the transom skin. Bought the West resin, to seal the transom, once I can get it to fit again. Hopefully I will be ready to go fishing soon, once the ice melts.
 

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TommyVM

Cadet
Joined
Jan 7, 2019
Messages
9
Also installed new bilge and live well pumps since it was wide open and easier to install now rather than after assembly. Would have been just my luck to crap out one of the old pumps after getting this all put back together!
 

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appleo

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2012
Messages
388
Sorry I jumped in late.......

Ive seen the rotted wood easily removed with an electric chainsaw

Aluminum corrosion I used wire wheel and dilute vinegar wash then wiped down with water
Coat with rust proof primer........I covered mine with an old can of Gluevit


Web says:
  • Scrub away any rust on the surface of the aluminum with a steel wool pad. ...
  • Apply a rust remover to the aluminum using a steel wool pad. ...
  • Leave the rust remover on the aluminum for five to 10 minutes. ...
  • Wipe the rust remover off with rags or paper towels. ...
  • Paint on a rust-proof primer for metals with a paint brush



Aluminum Corrosion requires oxygen


New Screws should be stainless

I coated both sides of my new wood with 3M 5200 before sliding in the cavity

I installed a backup bilge pump while i had:D the floors up....wired it to to my trolling battery using the "float" option. Cheap insurance as i have my boat moored in the Summer

Looking at your shop you are a regular at Harbor Freight as am I ............. I think I have 50 of those blue LED flashlights

;)

Keep in mid when replacing and locating fasteners/brackets in your new transom that the outboard motor pushes forward on the transom
 
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