Fixing Our Old Family Boat; Is It Worth It?

[Ulvinator]

A couple of weeks ago I was given my Dad’s boat, it is a 2001 Glastron GX185 SF 18 foot ski & fish.

This was my family’s boat growing up in California, so there is sentimental value in the thing. I have no money invested in it…YET.

I knew that the boat was old, and that it had been sitting outside in storage lots for about 10 years without proper (any) maintenance and was left to waste away without cover, etc…essentially severely neglected. I also think I know that it was not winterized ten-or-so years ago. I understand that meant the block was probably going to be cracked.

When it was my Dad’s boat, and in better shape in 2013, I had a very reputable mechanic check out the engine. Both exhaust manifolds were cracked (cast iron). The mechanic was nice enough to run a compression test on the engine: a Volvo Penta 4.3 Gi. It apparently had compression, cranked, and wanted to start but the fuel pump was shot. Dad ordered the fuel pump and the intake manifolds (both). They were never installed, I have all of that in my garage with all four gaskets and all of the bolts.

I am a newbie. Over the past couple of weeks, I have read countless articles on restoration of boats in such condition as this Glastron is in.

Last weekend I power washed it out (it was full of leaves, dirt, and debris. I started to strip the boat of the rotten and broken parts, accessories, as I understand is SOP for investigating.

Throughout the week I read numerous topics and watched numerous videos about replacing decking and stringers. I found that *it seems* that the 2001 Glastrons had a VEC hull, meaning potentially no wood in the transom or wood stringers. This would be a good thing if it were true, considering how long the boat sat out in the weather.

The engine has 63 hours on the gauge.

Tonight I pulled the rest of the seats out, and pulled up about half of the carpet in the main area of the boat (pictures can't be attached because I'm a new user I think). I found that

1. The carpet is easy to pull out, it’s so degraded it rips
2. The deck is rotted out in the center area of the boat
3. The perimeter of the boat is fiberglassed about 6-9” inward, wood underneath is bright yellow
4. The deck seems to sit on 2x4s running port-to-starboard
5. The ski-locker has what I might imagine to be a single dividing piece of lumber or what might be a wood stringer running port-to-starboard.

I thought that

• The engine would take some money to get running, because there is likely a $1,500 of belts, additional misc. parts, and labor needed to get it running (it ran 5 years ago - I’m being hopeful or blissfully ignorant). I would pay someone to do this
• I could possibly do a re-deck project myself, especially since the perimeter 9” is clear
• The carpet would be a long weekend project
• The gauges and batteries could be done by me for a significant cost but would be a fun learning project

If there are wood stringers in this boat - potentially at lease one - that are obviously rotten, it is a heck of a lot of work and a different project than I initially hoped for.

I don’t know what question to ask and where to start, but here are my questions

• Do I have wood stringers in this boat?
• If I replace the deck with marine plywood, would I just have to replace the interior section within the 9” of fiberglass?
• Am I right about the engine, if 5 years ago it had compression it should still if it has not been introduced to water?
• What would you do?

Thank you,
- Daniel

 

[Ulvinator]

Boat After I washed it: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/RSUp6dibQYmsxSOlTOf8ig.jpg

How dirty the thing was: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/lqH0ND5kS7aGmJavAqmeGg-e1546650212249.jpg

Before seats out http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/V9TUFdtGQzC9YDS2HJI5g-e1546650227664.jpg

Perimeter carpet: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/NRTMG7rlTMe18iiCKww6Fw-e1546649999750.jpg

Carpet behind sky locker on deck: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/KADyWQpISrGZU6fwUFwA-e1546649775763.jpg

Bottom end of sky locker where "stringer" is extant: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/zKQJZWC1RvGpVh8CmRcEUA-e1546649914534.jpg

One hour ago after seats out: http://ulvinen.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/0lnGaxzRbe3ZlDrfmF3BQ-e1546650254309.jpg

 

[Woodonglass]

Since it has sentimental value, I'd say it's a definite project. Here's the facts. Some Manufacturers change to composite stringers starting in 2000. I'd call Glastron and see if their Tech's could guide you. If wood, then based on your details you should plan for a TOTAL restoration, Stringers, Transom, Motor Mounts and Deck. The Entire deck from side to side and front to back needs to be replaced. You do NOT have to use marine plywood. Ext. Grade is 1/2 the costs and works just fine. Take a Look at this project. You'll learn a LOT!!
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...-repair/640060-my-1968-glastron-gt160-rebuild

You'll find that boats are pretty much the same. Some nuances but they all have Decks, Stringers, and transoms. How to remove and replace require basically the same techniques, regardless of the Make, Model and year of MFG.

With Engine rebuild, Interior re-do and Paint and other Cosmetic details you should have a budget of aprox. $3-5K You'll never be able to sell it for that but it WILL be better than factory when you're done.

 

[chevymaher]

Is it worth it? Only you can answer that.

What would I do? I gutted restored it put some band aids on the motor last year and went boating all summer. I am about to buy a new motor for this year. I rebuilt the outdrive a month or so ago.

I just keep buying wet suits and mask snorkles fins fishing gear. That is what i do in the winter buy crap for the boat. I am starting a prop collection now LOL.

So again only you know what is in your heart. You hear the siren singing to you. Will you follow her?

 

[Ulvinator]

Since it has sentimental value, I'd say it's a definite project. Here's the facts. Some Manufacturers change to composite stringers starting in 2000. I'd call Glastron and see if their Tech's could guide you. If wood, then based on your details you should plan for a TOTAL restoration, Stringers, Transom, Motor Mounts and Deck. The Entire deck from side to side and front to back needs to be replaced. You do NOT have to use marine plywood. Ext. Grade is 1/2 the costs and works just fine. Take a Look at this project. You'll learn a LOT!!
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...-repair/640060-my-1968-glastron-gt160-rebuild

You'll find that boats are pretty much the same. Some nuances but they all have Decks, Stringers, and transoms. How to remove and replace require basically the same techniques, regardless of the Make, Model and year of MFG.

With Engine rebuild, Interior re-do and Paint and other Cosmetic details you should have a budget of aprox. $3-5K You'll never be able to sell it for that but it WILL be better than factory when you're done.

I appreciate your advice. I have found the transom and motor mounts to be secured to fiberglass. This ski locker thing has me puzzled. They would have to trim out the ski locker with something (that is not fiberglass) in my estimation to make the box, but I guess I won't know until I remove the deck completely. That will happen soon...tomorrow if I get the chance.

 

[Ulvinator]

Is it worth it? Only you can answer that.

What would I do? I gutted restored it put some band aids on the motor last year and went boating all summer. I am about to buy a new motor for this year. I rebuilt the outdrive a month or so ago.

I just keep buying wet suits and mask snorkles fins fishing gear. That is what i do in the winter buy crap for the boat. I am starting a prop collection now LOL.

So again only you know what is in your heart. You hear the siren singing to you. Will you follow her?

Of course. I am ready to get to work, learn, and get the job done. This boat - for reasons I can't say - could be an inspirational project. I also have two daughters that are young and I know they would love at least a few years of boating out of the same boat I was introduced to boating on. I think that was cool, so I hear the call and I want to answer, just don't want to get into a restoration that cannot be completed.

 

[Woodonglass]

Just because it Looks good doesn't mean it is. As I said do a LOT of studying on the projects here and you'll learn a lot. You absolutely need to core sample ALL areas of the boat to find out the true condition of the core wood material. Everything in the boat is fiberglass coated and usually has a wood core. Some MFG's do a better job than others. As i stated earlier, based on your description, I'd bet the Bank that your boat will require a total tear down and restoration. Experience has confirmed this.

 

[chevymaher]

You can do it. it is hard work but so worth it.

Middle of winter. I am building a model of my boat waiting for the bonus check to buy a motor. I check the boat everyday.

Siren has me under her spell.

My son keeps talking about fishing. My brother saying if I wanted him to go fishing so I aint bored. Lets get this straight pal. Your welcome to go anytime.

Do It you won't regret it.

 

[tpenfield]

:welcome: to iBoats . . .

You have come to the right place. With that much wood, I am thinking that the hull is not the VEC type, but a bit more ripping apart and some more pictures will help determine for sure. Take the additional pictures a bit further back so as to give us all some perspective.

As stated, if it is worth it to you, then it is worth it. Once you get all the carpet and other things out of the boat, you will get a better idea of the condition of the hull's structure and what may be needed.

As for the engine, if the manifolds were cracked, then the engine block is most likely also cracked internally, so it would be a new engine block. You can probably get a salvage yard 4.3L GM block, which is what Mercruiser and Volvo-Penta use for their engines, or maybe even get a marine-ready long block. Then the fuel, ignition and electrical stuff can come over from the defunct engine.

 

[Tassie 1]

2001 model boat is old?

 

[dingbat]

2001 model boat is old?

Yes, a 18 yro boat is old....lol

 

[garbageguy]

If you love being on the water, and this boat is the type you want to be on the water with, and are willing to to the work and follow the sirens - I'd say go for it. You already have the attention and advice from the good folks here, and I assume you've seen the cost of a new boat, or even the costs and unknowns a different used boat might have.

 

[Ulvinator]

I purchased an angle grinder and a couple cutting wheels today. Once I crack it open I will post pictures.

- Daniel

 

[Ulvinator]

Tonight I removed the cracked manifold and I have a question: does it do any harm to remove? I wanted to get new spark plugs so I pulled one and the engine compartment is closed from the weather.

 

[chevymaher]

If it is sitting with open cylinders outside covered or not. Spray PB Blaster in the openings to keep surface rust off.

 

[Ulvinator]

I found that portable power tools aren’t going to get this job done. I had to move the boat closer to the house so later this week I can get some corded tools on the job. I have about 10% of the surface area opened up to check it out. I'm not sure what I see but I have a few ideas.

Wood deck was very much rotted. Only reason you couldn’t tell was the 2x reinforcement running lateral for additional support.

Is it safe to run a corded skill-saw down the perimeter with the depth set to the appropriate thickness of the plywood?

Pictures follow...

 

[sms986]

You should definitely open the engine up if it's been sitting that long. I'm new to stringers and transoms but I can tell you that you'll at least need some machine work on the engine. Heads are easy to clean up, and for the cost of boring out rusted cylinders and getting oversized pistons/rings, it's easier to buy a shortblock off of Craigslist and sell your rotating assembly. Moisture will find its way in no matter how well the engine is covered. If you get the right stuff, the engine will be by far the cheapest part of this project. I paid $250 for a shortblock and another $150 on top of that for misc. parts to put money back together .

 

[tpenfield]

Does not look like the VEC hull. Lots of wood. . .

 

[Ulvinator]

Update....

I sat on this project for a couple months now. As excited as I was to be attempting to restore the boat, the temperatures and the weather were so cold that I burned out on exhausting and unproductive work sessions.

It’s now spring; I have replaced one of the two manifolds, demolished much of the trim and the rear bench, and removed a ton of accessories.

its difficult to remove the deck and I have paused on that work as I have most of the center removed.

I’m not sure how many gallons the tank has in capacity but I was able to pump out 5 gallons today. I’m in search of a disposal site.

It seems the top half of the boat above the hull (not sure of the technical term for the single solid piece of fiberglass is) precludes me from open and free access to the engine compartment to continue to remove carpet and deck.

Without clear vision and access, I’m wary of continuing removal of deck to get to the “stringers.”

I installed a battery today to check the electrical system. The gauges light, blower starts, bilge runs, and the engine cranks. This is good....

New Questions:

- Am I going to have to crack the boat open laterally and removing the top side of the boat to do this correctly?

- All of the old pieces of trim I’ve saved but I want to start cutting templates so I can throw away the rotting plywood.

- What pictures could I take to show the board what my “stringers” look like to see what I need to do to address/replace them?

...pictures to follow.



Thanks,
- Daniel

 

[Chris51280]

you don't have to take the cap off. replacing the stringers and floor does not require de-capping. it is more so for outboard boats since the splashwell is with the upper cap.

With the engine. several options you have:
- I had a cracked block that was welded as well my exhaust. I replaced it with another junkyard engine that share the same year components since the 4.3 went through various changes. you can check out my rebuild for the older 4.3.
If you get a truck block, you can take it apart and check the bores, deglaze them. Replace the rings, bearings, gaskets, pump, timing chain. However, if you look at the cost, its about a good 600-700 for the rebuild with marine gaskets and then the cost of the block from wherever you will buy it from.

I got the sierra brand manifold and they seem to be pretty good. The GLM is hit and miss from what I read. So I stayed clear of that.