Tools - Fiberglass and Wood

76SeaRay

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Aug 24, 2017
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I read through the safety sticky and it talks about safety equipment which is great. I was wondering if some of you could expand upon that with some recommendations and brands and models. For example, paint and resin requires respirators capable of handling VOC's but many of those you can buy say to not use them on dust (grinding fiberglass). So, looking for recommendations for painting, epoxy application, urethane application, cutting/grinding fiberglass, and cutting/grinding wood.

Maybe we could compile a list as follows with some good brands and models listed that are affordable and stand up to the rigors of working boats:

Safety Equipment

Respirators for Paint mixing and application
Respirators for Epoxy mixing and application
etc

Tools for Working Materials

Sanding/Prepping Fiberglass (Like the Hull at the Transom)
Grinding/Prepping Structural Fiberglass (Like stringer bases away from the Hull)
Grit for Sanding Materials for various jobs
Blade types and coarseness
Tool speed
etc

An example of applying this list is that I am wondering whether to use a right angle grinder with a 4 inch disk, a 6 inch DA sander, or 8 inch buffer with coarse sanding disk to prep the hull for bonding the new transom plywood. Along with this, what grit to use and can I do it in one pass or start with coarse and finish with fine. Also, what speed in different applications.

Please let me know if I missed this somewhere on the site.

Thanks....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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affordable tools are not good tools

for example, a 4.5" harbor freight grinder will most likely smoke the 2nd time you use it. however a 4.5" dewalt will last decades

that being stated, time on a tool helps you determine which tool is best for the task on hand.

I would never use an 8" buffer, however I would use a 7" variable speed polisher for the final polish after wet-sanding



for hull restoration, you will need the following at a minimum:

sawzall with variety of blades (mostly 10 TPI)
multi-tool with variety of blades and attachments
circular saw with a few carbide blades
jig saw
drill, with assortment of wire cup brushes and drill extensions along with some carbide burrs
4.5" quality angle grinder and 24, 36, and 40 grit discs (not flap wheels), cut-off wheels, and some heavy duty cup-brushes

for fine sanding of fairing or gel, a 6" DA, either pneumatic or electric

a good shop-vac brand shop vac. get the filter bags

for PPE:
tyvek suits
full-face 3M respirator
work gloves
nitril gloves

you will need bandages and bandaids
 

froggy1150

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 3, 2017
Messages
796
I disagree with the harbor freight grinders. I bought 2 for $20 in 95. Used them at magic mountain theme park for 5 years and then continued to kill them 4 the next 18 years. First one just died.... dropped it and broke the switch..... 2nd still working. Think I got my monies worth!!!!
 

Woodonglass

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I disagree with the harbor freight grinders. I bought 2 for $20 in 95. Used them at magic mountain theme park for 5 years and then continued to kill them 4 the next 18 years. First one just died.... dropped it and broke the switch..... 2nd still working. Think I got my monies worth!!!!

Froggy, I understand what you're saying but...fiberglass dust will kill the HF $12 grinders pretty quick. They have Cheap Brushes and bearings. There ARE some things you can do to extend their lives but...they won't last as long as the quality tool brands. Years of experience on this forum has proven this to be true.

I agree with Scott about needed tools with a few more details.


A $100 full face respirator is the BEST All around unit. They make different cartridges for different particulates.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator-Multiple-x/dp/B007QY8WTY
IF you can smell the odor of the product being worked on...It's time to change filters.

40 grit resin coated grinding discs with a rubber backup pad is all that's needed. Nothing has to be any smoother than what the 60 grit will produce.

The multi tool with half moon blade with cut most everything you need but a Sawzall with long flexible blades is nice for removing stringers.
 
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froggy1150

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 3, 2017
Messages
796
I do blow everything out several times while working and when finished to keep dust to a minimum inside the tools I use to grind. It does help to keep them running in these harsh conditions. I have a 9 Inch that was my dad's from the early 1960s and it runs Strong too. I gave it its own "respirator" on the air intake vent along with good maintenence :D
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
I'm glad to see someone stated a good vacuum cleaner. I can't even begin to say how many times I've used my shop vac. Even after the grinding dirty work is over, you still have to clean the hull out before you do anything else...almost daily! I built a Dirt Deputy setup to help keep the motor clean when grinding and vacuuming fiberglass dust. The fine dust gets into everything including the motor if you don't have a good filter on it. And that creates low suction and heat. That is what kills motors faster then anything. JMHO

Also, I like using flapper discs myself when grinding old/new fiberglass. Some people don't like them, some do. I suggest you give both a try and chose for yourself. And the tyvek full body suit is a MUST. Unless you want to be the most miserableness, itchy, scratchy person on the planet, use one with gloves and head gear. You will understand why if you don't. Eyes, ears, nose, mouth and every other place on your body will need to be covered to avoid the fiberglass dust problems. If you have one little opening, you will pay for it. And you can buy tyvek suits, even at Lowe's, for not very much. A fan helps keep the dust off you as well. JMHO

And I 1000% agree with Woodonglas's suggestion about a good 3M respirator. They are the best and can be fitted with different cartridges for different uses. Get the vapor type for Epoxy and Polyester resins and paints of all types. And you can get dust type filters for the fiberglass dust. The last a really long time and well worth your lung protection indeed. Some of the chemicals you will use are two part catalyst types that if they get into your lungs will stay there. NOT GOOD!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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The last two HF grinders smoked in the first 30 seconds of use and I didnt even touch the work yet. I have a pile (7 to be exact) of HF die grinders missing the magic smoke as well

Im done buying HF electric tools.

My 30 year old craftsman (dewalt) is on its 3rd chord, 4th rubber backing pad, 2nd re-pack of the gear head, however is still going strong.

It has built 4 hot rods, restored 12 vehicles and 4 boats
 

froggy1150

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Nov 3, 2017
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796
Trust me I am no fan of hf but I have been waiting for these things to die..... and I treat them like what they are .... junk. Maybe their junk was better back then ....
 

chevymaher

Commander
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Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,914
Switch sucks on them I wired mine to run. And took it apart and greased it when I got the second one. They dont like continual use they overheat. Once I was finished with the boat it last forever. Just dont let the head gears get red hot LOL.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
If you are interested in the better grinders, but don't want to spend large amounts of money, look for used one on Ebay or even a local pawn shop. You can get them some times for a song. Then open them up, clean them and replace anything that needs replace. And the parts are usually available on Ebay as well, cheap.

I have rebuilt a few of them years ago and still using them today. They are very good Dewalt grinders. Just an idea if you know how to rebuild tools.

Dewalt has part break downs all over the web to let you get part numbers and buy parts. You will have a perfectly running quality grinder for a fraction of that grinder new. And lets face it, after one grinding section, a new one will look exactly like your rebuilt one anyway. JMHO
 

Mechanicalmike08

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 29, 2018
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308
I would also disagree about HF, there not super quality and agree a Dewalt is much better. Fiberglass dust will destroy any brand. But you also cant buy the cheapest one they offer. Any of the drill master or w.e the brand is, are the cheap ones that will last 5 min. Get the 20% coupon or they usually have a coupon for the next level up one. They will last with a little care.

I bought the lower level dust bags for my shop vac, they say there not for drywall dust but they have caught everything I have thrown at them. I got a 3 pack at menards for like $8. My filter has had no dust on it at all and I have filled 2 of the 3 bags to the brim so far.

I also have different filters for my face mask, one for dust and one for VOC's.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 16, 2011
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11,429
Fiberglass dust is really bad on any tool .. I have no problem with the el cheapo grinders for glass .. I think I am on my 3rd one so far plus 1 dewalt .. The dewalt lasted maybe a tad longer but not much .. 10 bucks for a hf that you know is gunna catch heck vs a way more expensive one that’s gunna catch heck also .. But then again you could put me in the old cheap sob category.. :facepalm:
 

mickyryan

Rear Admiral
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havent tried the sanders but got the 17 dollar drill from hf it smoked in less then 5 minutes using it to remove decals lol
 

76SeaRay

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Aug 24, 2017
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I like the idea of the 3M mask that Woodonglass recommended, however, I wear glasses and the reviews say they won't work with glasses. Is that true or is there an alternative full face mask that does work with glasses?

Also, which filters are recommended for epoxy/resin and which filters for fiberglass dust/grinding?

Thanks for all the information.. I start sanding and grinding on the transom this coming Saturday...
 

zool

Captain
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Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
You use particulate filters for grinding dust, and organic vapor filters for fumes, both available for 3m masks. Polyester resin which uses mekp requires a vapor filter, with epoxy resin its optional, i dont use a mask at all with epoxy, except when grinding/sanding it.

I use a full face mask when grinding hull glass, without my glasses on......glasses are pretty much irrelevant in the dust cloud you will dwell in ;)

If u must, then a head sock and half mask will be fine, just rub your face in talc to prevent itching.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
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Jun 26, 2011
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The 3M 6100 series half mask works great with eyeglass wearers. And they accept either cartridges for dust and VOC/Vapor protection. And I have used the same VOC vapor cartridges for a long long time. You change to new ones once you start smelling the vapors with the mask on. And that is a long time before you will need to change them. Hope this helps...
 

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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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it also helps if you put the whole mask in a zip-loc bag when you are not using it
 

76SeaRay

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Thanks, after having worked with a half mask doing painting, I would prefer the full face mask. Anybody know of a full face mask that would accommodate glasses?
 

fishrdan

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Jan 25, 2008
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For the shop vac, I use an old pillow case clamped onto the hose connector, inside the vac. . Does the same thing as the $15 for 2 disposable fine dust filters, but it's reusable, and you won't tear it in half taking it out of the vac.

Drop a couple rocks into the pillow case before attaching it, so it stays at the bottom of the vac, and doesn't get completely sucked up into the filter.
 
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