Just Got an old boat and want advice for fixing it up

[czsilverwolf]

Hello,

I am new to fixing and maintaining boats but by no means new to boating. I just bought a boat and I am looking to get it fixed up and repaired. I will have each item I need help with separated out into list file. If you can help me or link me to help I would greatly appreciate it.

1. First things first is finding manuals. I need an operators, parts, service and an engine manual. The problem is the Hull ID ends in 79' but the title lists the year as 80'. Looking through sea rays brochures (cuz they don't have any manuals pre-89') the closest boat based on layout and length of the boat (22.5') is the 80' SRV 225 Cuddy Cruiser (except I don't have a refreshment center). Another problem is I can't seem to reverse lookup the serial numbers on the engines to see what they are. Serial number on the stern drive is 5331357 and the serial number on the in/out engine is 5492908. Any manuals or ID help would be greatly appreciated. Can't do much with the engine without a manual to show where everything is and how to service/maintain it and what fluids to use. It is a Mercruiser V8 in/out with a stern drive propeller, but that's all the info I got.
4. Electrical wiring replacement. Any advice for where to find wiring diagrams for my boat as well as where to find replacement wires would be greatly appreciated. I would also be interested in adding extra lighting to the cuddy cabin. The control panel also needs some switches replaced but don't know what they turn on/off yet. I do plan to remove the cracked laminate on the control dash. Should I replace it or just remove it?
5. Sealing cracks. I did find a post about grinding out and sealing cracks but he used a blue colored filler. Is there a white version? As you can see the whole thing already got sealed in the past in a straight line under the rails but it's cracking in some parts.
6. Re-oiling the teak wood. Any recommendations for sanding and oiling teak wood parts? Also need to find a replacement door for the back of the cuddy cabin since it doesn't have one.
7. Seat cushions. The seat cushions are in good condition and just need steam cleaning and resealing. Any recommendations for a seat cushion sealer/varnish?
8. Trailer. Is there a good paint for boat trailers or will any paint do? Also need to rewire the trailer.
9. Parts. Not necessary but I would be interested in finding a replacement canvas cover (as seen in the cuddy cabin) that snap into the window frames or a replacement refreshment center.
That sums up what I need help/advice with. The rest is just parts and cleanup. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[mickyryan]

check stringers and transom , look at all the stickies on how to's also engine looks as if it might be spewing oil on the back of the boat , if it was started dry then the waterpump is obliterated, welcome to the forums get to the bones and check them first then the rest is just easy. stringers, transom floor
first .

 

[wrench 3]

Your engine number comes up as a 228 which was a GM 305. The engine has been replaced with a newer GM Vortec engine. However the exhaust manifolds and thermostat housing are from the 228.
The drive is a 1R.
There are generally no wiring diagrams available for boats other than the engine. However the late great Don S left us a sticky at the top of the electrical forum that may be helpful.
For canvas you're probably going to have to go to a local upholstery shop. Same for the cabin door. Either make one yourself or talk to a local carpenter.

 

[Scott Danforth]

that crack on the outside of the boat isnt a simple v-groove the spider crack and fix type of thing. that is a bad repair that needs to be corrected

the paint on the outside of the hull is the least of your issues.

get core samples and do test drills on the stringers, bulkheads and transom. you most likely will be doing a full tear-down, gut, and restore

the engine has been replaced, it is a 1985 or later. if the intake manifold has 12 bolts retaining it, then the motor is a 1985-1995 if the intake manifold has 8 bolts, then the motor is a 1996 and newer

at the top of every forum is a bunch of stickies. you need to go to the Mercruiser forum to look at those stickies, and i suggest you read every one

for the hull and restoration forum, here is a link to the stikies

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

read links 14, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b. you are going to need that information on your hull restoration. make sure to watch all the videos, etc in link 14

 

[czsilverwolf]

check stringers and transom , look at all the stickies on how to's also engine looks as if it might be spewing oil on the back of the boat , if it was started dry then the waterpump is obliterated, welcome to the forums get to the bones and check them first then the rest is just easy. stringers, transom floor
first .

I already figured that I would need to replace the propeller but still need to know what kinda engine I have so I know the gear ratio. They had the hose hooked up and running when they cranked the engine for me but I do still want to go through and check everything. Problem is I've never worked on a boat engine so I don't know whats what much less how to change oil on it. That's why I'm trying to find a manual for it but gotta know what the engine is called to find the right manual.

Did the hammer/sound check on the transom and it sounds beautiful but not sure how to check the stringers without cutting out the floor. Will the sound check work?

 

[czsilverwolf]

Your engine number comes up as a 228 which was a GM 305. The engine has been replaced with a newer GM Vortec engine. However the exhaust manifolds and thermostat housing are from the 228.
The drive is a 1R.
There are generally no wiring diagrams available for boats other than the engine. However the late great Don S left us a sticky at the top of the electrical forum that may be helpful.
For canvas you're probably going to have to go to a local upholstery shop. Same for the cabin door. Either make one yourself or talk to a local carpenter.

That helps a bit so I have a Mercruiser V8 GM 305 Vortec R/1 engine? I'm assuming the 228 is horsepower?

 

[czsilverwolf]

that crack on the outside of the boat isnt a simple v-groove the spider crack and fix type of thing. that is a bad repair that needs to be corrected

the paint on the outside of the hull is the least of your issues.

get core samples and do test drills on the stringers, bulkheads and transom. you most likely will be doing a full tear-down, gut, and restore

the engine has been replaced, it is a 1985 or later. if the intake manifold has 12 bolts retaining it, then the motor is a 1985-1995 if the intake manifold has 8 bolts, then the motor is a 1996 and newer

at the top of every forum is a bunch of stickies. you need to go to the Mercruiser forum to look at those stickies, and i suggest you read every one

for the hull and restoration forum, here is a link to the stikies

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

read links 14, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b. you are going to need that information on your hull restoration. make sure to watch all the videos, etc in link 14

Ya I figured that crack would be trouble. That's why I was wondering if I have to sand the whole body down to the aluminum or just the crack spots.
I did a hammer/sound check and the transom is fine. Bounces all the way every spot. If I can do the same test on the floors it sounded fine too.
Tried link 14 before and just realized that it doesn't redirect you to the 1st page with videos, it just takes you to a random page in the middle. These videos will be great walkthroughs for me. Thanks!
The intake manifold has 12 bolts retaining it. so I have a 1985-1995 Mercruiser V8 GM 305 Vortec R/1 engine? I found a site through one of the stickies that links to engine manuals so this will help me figure out which of the 34 manuals I need.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ya I figured that crack would be trouble. That's why I was wondering if I have to sand the whole body down to the aluminum or just the crack spots.
I did a hammer/sound check and the transom is fine. Bounces all the way every spot. If I can do the same test on the floors it sounded fine too.
Tried link 14 before and just realized that it doesn't redirect you to the 1st page with videos, it just takes you to a random page in the middle. These videos will be great walkthroughs for me. Thanks!
The intake manifold has 12 bolts retaining it. so I have a 1985-1995 Mercruiser V8 GM 305 Vortec R/1 engine? I found a site through one of the stickies that links to engine manuals so this will help me figure out which of the 34 manuals I need.

your boat is fiberglass, other than the rub-rail, its fiberglass. by the looks of the repair, it was a shoddy one years ago.

hammer test means nothing on the transom. only true test is to take core samples. take a 3/8" drill bit, tape off about 1" from the end, and from inside the boat, drill some holes in the transom, about 2" above the hull. if the shavings come out dry, and light colored, your fine, use marine epoxy putty to fill the holes. however if the shavings come out wet, dark, and smell like rotting wood, you have a full gut-n-restore.

your motor has been replaced. look at the casting number on the block to see what you have (starboard side, on the flywheel housing embossment, just behind the cylinder head.

 

[Tassie 1]

Good advice in all the posts above

do those sound insulation panels in the engine bay lift out?
pita to change plugs etc etc if they don't
they seem a bit close to the motor as well,

they can also cause problems re airflow...overheating etc if not enough air getting to the motor...if not set up properly,

you can use tinted persplex as a dash panel

 

[czsilverwolf]

your boat is fiberglass, other than the rub-rail, its fiberglass. by the looks of the repair, it was a shoddy one years ago.

hammer test means nothing on the transom. only true test is to take core samples. take a 3/8" drill bit, tape off about 1" from the end, and from inside the boat, drill some holes in the transom, about 2" above the hull. if the shavings come out dry, and light colored, your fine, use marine epoxy putty to fill the holes. however if the shavings come out wet, dark, and smell like rotting wood, you have a full gut-n-restore.

your motor has been replaced. look at the casting number on the block to see what you have (starboard side, on the flywheel housing embossment, just behind the cylinder head.

Ok did the drill test on the transom. Wood is practically new. Came out nice and dry and light colored. I can't access the casting number at all without taking it apart and I'm not savvy enough with engines to take it apart. I will post more pics of the engine below.

 

[czsilverwolf]

 

[wrench 3]

Back then they were listing the models by horsepower instead of displacement. So you're right, it's 228 hp.
Other than the very basic engine (rocker cover gaskets on in) everything looks like it came with the 228. So I'd be looking for a manual for the Mercruiser 228.
The out drive is a 1R, sometimes referred to as a 1.
There should be numbers on the propeller for diameter and pitch. Assuming that it was originally doing a good job. Gear ratio is irrelevant any way. They gear the drive to match the engine and the standard prop is always the same. In this case a 19 pitch. You only have to change that if you have a bigger engine in a smaller boat or visa versa. Yours is a fairly standard engine for that size boat.
I'd also get rid of that small fuel filter. It doesn't need to be there and may not be up to marine standards. The fuel water separator has a filter in it that will handle a lot more junk. And make sure you fasten that battery down.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Back then they were listing the models by horsepower instead of displacement. So you're right, it's 228 hp.
Other than the very basic engine (rocker cover gaskets on in) everything looks like it came with the 228. So I'd be looking for a manual for the Mercruiser 228.
The out drive is a 1R, sometimes referred to as a 1.
There should be numbers on the propeller for diameter and pitch. Assuming that it was originally doing a good job. Gear ratio is irrelevant any way. They gear the drive to match the engine and the standard prop is always the same. In this case a 19 pitch. You only have to change that if you have a bigger engine in a smaller boat or visa versa. Yours is a fairly standard engine for that size boat.
I'd also get rid of that small fuel filter. It doesn't need to be there and may not be up to marine standards. The fuel water separator has a filter in it that will handle a lot more junk. And make sure you fasten that battery down.

Wrench, the original 1979 motor may have been a 305, however the motor that is in there is not the original motor, the motor that is in there is 1985 or later.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok did the drill test on the transom. Wood is practically new. Came out nice and dry and light colored. I can't access the casting number at all without taking it apart and I'm not savvy enough with engines to take it apart. I will post more pics of the engine below.

how did you get to the transom with the motor in place? no need to take the engine apart, you need to take the apron off the boat that is above the engine

 

[czsilverwolf]

how did you get to the transom with the motor in place? no need to take the engine apart, you need to take the apron off the boat that is above the engine

Basically that. Took the enclosure off the motor then squeezed my way back in there on either side of the motor and drilled in. I took all those extra pics of the engine with the enclosure removed before I drilled.

 

[wrench 3]

Wrench, the original 1979 motor may have been a 305, however the motor that is in there is not the original motor, the motor that is in there is 1985 or later.

Quite true but I think he's more likely to be working on the marine equipment attached to the engine than the long block it'self.

 

[Scott Danforth]

correct, however without knowing whats there, things like carb and distributor may be an issue, could be a 305, could be a 350. need the casting number off the block to know.

 

[wrench 3]

correct, however without knowing whats there, things like carb and distributor may be an issue, could be a 305, could be a 350. need the casting number off the block to know.

I agree that it would be a good idea to know that engine is in there but it looks like the distributor is the original Mallory point ignition from the 305. The carb is also the original style Quadrajet and if it is a re-jetted rebuilt it has an ID tag on it. Also the ignition timing is the same for the 305 and the 350.

Silverwolf
You can view the manual for the 228 here http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser3.html#/0
The stern drive manual is at http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser4.html#/0

 

[czsilverwolf]

I agree that it would be a good idea to know that engine is in there but it looks like the distributor is the original Mallory point ignition from the 305. The carb is also the original style Quadrajet and if it is a re-jetted rebuilt it has an ID tag on it. Also the ignition timing is the same for the 305 and the 350.

Silverwolf
You can view the manual for the 228 here http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser3.html#/0
The stern drive manual is at http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser4.html#/0

Thank you!! This helps a LOT!! Decided to take a peek and the stringers are fine. So both the transom and stringers are golden! Next up is taking it in to a mechanic to check out the engine (make sure nothing is toast that I can't fix myself.). After that is on to the electrical and the cosmetics!

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you drill the stringers. If you have an almost 40 year old boat with dry Transom and Stringers you'll be in the 1% club. IF the boat was Always maintained properly and stored covered then maybe but it's very rare.