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Just bought this project boat...

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  • #31
    Its all stuff to be removed and thrown away, then you start over

    the metal "fingers" as you called it is a mic holder for the VHF radio. the bracket is on the dash.

    the bimini track will be specific to the original bimini, if you do not have the original bimini frame, then I suggest you start over

    the magazine rack is an oddity as well, could have held charts

    the whole floor, stringers, foam, etc will be coming out anyway

    expect $2500 for the hull restoration and about another $2500 for the interior and other interior bits

    then you have your conversion to contend with.
    Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

    1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

    Past Boats
    1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
    2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
    1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

    What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

    Comment


    • #32
      The padded side panels, I'll be having restored along with the wood strips. I'll be having the bow seats/cushions restored. I've gutted out all the wiring and the old/damaged instrumentation panel and thrown it away. The horn was under the steering wheel (area up under the dash) Why have it there? Shouldn’t it be out on the bow somewhere? And screws going through the side of the hull to anchor brackets and stuff (and covering the screw heads with resin) is a dumb thing, is it not? What do you use to fill those small holes before repainting?

      One thing I know... I got me a project boat. And I “project” it will be a lot of work and money til it be finished... :-D

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      • #33
        because the cheap horns they used were not meant to be out in the weather

        even fully stainless horns only last a few years because they are not good stainless.

        its a fiberglass hull, you will be glassing holes and stuff (including the screw holes you mention) long before you ever think of gel or paint to finish it.
        Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

        1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

        Past Boats
        1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
        2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
        1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

        What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

        Comment


        • #34
          Think I found something that will work great for the smll screw holes and such:

          https://www.solarez.com/product/sola...e-3-5-oz-tube/

          Anyone have their thoughts on or experience with this stuff?

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          • #35
            do not waste your money.

            you will be buying at least 15 gallons of resin, about 30+ yards of 1708, a few pounds of cabosil and a few pounds of chopped fibers.

            your going to be mixing up PB anyway, which is what you will use to fill the holes

            as stated, those holes are the least of your concerns.
            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

            Past Boats
            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

            Comment


            • #36
              Are there resins/other additives that don't have noxious fumes? I can see myself doing this, but not if I can't breathe or need to wear special suiting/respirator (as I've seen in some videos), etc. As far as cutting the fiberglass, would a dust mask and goggles be sufficient?

              As far as removing the flooring, do I use a small circular saw (the handheld kind) to cut along the edge of where it looks like the flooring fiberglass joins the fiberglass on the sides? I assume the rotted plywood goes that far.. Will I need to remove the cap, to get to all the stringers or only as far as where that top piece of plywood is just in front of the bow (refer to previous pics)?

              Can this boat, minus engine/stern drive, be "hung" (lifted up in the air) by the line anchors (the things you wrap the ropes around, to tie/tether your boat to a dock or similar), or would the weight of just the hull and such rip them out of the cap fiberglass? Forgive any "idiot" questions I might ask... just curious and "learning as I go". :-D

              Comment


              • #37
                Originally posted by Luposian View Post
                Are there resins/other additives that don't have noxious fumes? I can see myself doing this, but not if I can't breathe or need to wear special suiting/respirator (as I've seen in some videos), etc. As far as cutting the fiberglass, would a dust mask and goggles be sufficient?
                __ EEEpppoooxxxyyy has no odors at all.
                --PPE, You should read the stickies above. Most of these questions are answered.
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-information

                As far as removing the flooring, do I use a small circular saw (the handheld kind) to cut along the edge of where it looks like the flooring fiberglass joins the fiberglass on the sides? I assume the rotted plywood goes that far.. Will I need to remove the cap, to get to all the stringers or only as far as where that top piece of plywood is just in front of the bow (refer to previous pics)?

                -Stickys/videos, youtube
                frisco boater

                1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED
                ...Kinda!!

                Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
                Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint
                ...Say What!!!


                Can this boat, minus engine/stern drive, be "hung" (lifted up in the air) by the line anchors (the things you wrap the ropes around, to tie/tether your boat to a dock or similar), or would the weight of just the hull and such rip them out of the cap fiberglass? Forgive any "idiot" questions I might ask... just curious and "learning as I go". :-D
                No not made for that. You would need to make some type of support brace.
                Most times I'm wrong, Most times I stand corrected..But...Sometimes I'm right.
                1983 SportCraft Deep V OSFF 222 Cuddy Rehab
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump

                Comment


                • #38
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                  Some more detailed pics of the floor. I assume that the edge of the wood (what's left of it (rotted)) under the fiberglass, is where the screws are along the edge. So, is there any point cutting beyond that or should I cut out all flooring fiberglass right to the sides of the hull? There is a noticable sag in the fiberglass on both port/starboard side, but only just before the top piece of plywood (as shown). Any idea why? I notice there is a "platform" the gas tank sits on and a sunk in lower foundation the front engine mount sits on (seller told me I'd have to replace the wood under there as well). But it looks like the rear engine mounts are just fastened to a interior metal frame portion of the stern drive. When everything is gutted out and removed, I assume I have to keep the electric motor unit mounted at the same height as the original ICE, so it engages the stern drive properly. So, basically, once all stringers/bulkheads are replaced, I can "floor in" everything at the same height, except where the motor goes.

                  Question: do you generally want more or less air space (bilge?) under the floor? That will determine how tall I make my stringers/bulkheads. I estimate between the bottom floor and the top piece of plywood, I have about 1" of thickness. I assume 3/4" plywood is as thick as it gets, so I need 1/4" taller stringers than current. Or has rot shrunken the bottom plywood (and stringers/bulkheads?) and new plywood would be thicker?

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