89 vip vison

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
Looking for some feed back on the transom. Finally getting back to work on it. My idea is 3 layers of 1/2 because the last layer will create the wings. I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure the recess in the hull is 1". I really don't want to pop for a piece of 1" just to cut a roughly 24" square out of, but I guess I could use some to make engine mounts out of if need be.
 

oldrem

Commander
Joined
Nov 7, 2013
Messages
2,002
Looking for some feed back on the transom. Finally getting back to work on it. My idea is 3 layers of 1/2 because the last layer will create the wings. I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure the recess in the hull is 1". I really don't want to pop for a piece of 1" just to cut a roughly 24" square out of, but I guess I could use some to make engine mounts out of if need be.

As long as it's properly laminated there should be no issues doing that.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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47,306
Check the stickies, specifically look at link 18 there is a drawing on how much overlap each successive layers should have for both tabbing and transoms. I also read link 14 in its entirety
 

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
Made some progress yesterday. Got the transom glued up this past week, so I got to start mocking up the stringers and bulk heads. Was going to add a bulkhead around the front seat location, but just remembered the ski locker. UGGG. lol. Luckily those 2 stringers were made from excess material, and I can use it elsewhere. Guess I'll just make some wings there. Feels good to be putting some structure down, but unfortunate I won't be starting glass until it warms up, but I should be ready for it though.
Question: Really noticing the hull flexes a lot down the sides of the keel as I'm walking around in there, and I'm still planing on laying a couple of layers of 1708 down it between the stringers. How much will that stiffen it up ? I just don't feel the need to put all the little 4x6 pieces of 1/2 ply back, but I will if you think I should. Also panning on changing the drain plug so it will be at hull level and not sticking up in the air.
 

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chevymaher

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Joined
Mar 29, 2017
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Once the stringers and bulkheads are attached. You will notice the hull don't move anymore. It is a brick.

I had my keel and bulkheads in only. I stopped and thought what is wrong here firt tie I walked in it. Took me a second to realize i wasn't used to a solid hull.
 

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
Good to know. Just not used to something moving under my feet like that.
Has anyone used a keel guard ? The boat will get beached, and I would like some extra protection there.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,306
you did make a cradle, correct?

yes, use a keel guard if you plan on beaching. go longer. for example, on my 19' searay, i went with a keel guard that was 4' longer than they recommended because I beached
 

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
No I didn't, and the reason may seem ludicrous to you, but it had all been cut up before, and I couldn't trust that it was right. I am going to cradle and true it now that I have all the old bad stuff out. I have run a straight edge down the keel and there is no substantial hook.
 

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
Good idea going longer with the guard. I figure better safe than sorry specially after all this work.
 

Brien S

Seaman
Joined
Nov 30, 2018
Messages
68
Hey all. Been a while. No good heat in the garage, fixing washer and dryer, 2 jobs, and no money makes it tough to work on the boat. About 2/3 with getting the new stringers and bulk heads cut. Still playing with what to do about the ski locker. Got the boat cradled finally. Stinking trailer tongue is tweaked worse than I thought, but can be fixed.
 

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