89 vip vison

[Brien S]

Hey all. New to the site. Tons of great info !!!
Picked up a project a few weeks ago for a pretty decent deal. Basically a trailer with a boat on it. Went into it knowing what it needs. Pulled the floor to find a previous hacked job of a new floor and partial stringer repair ( just cut the bad off and scabbed on new wood with no glass). I have it all out to the hull. Transome is rock solid ( whew !!!). Questions are, oem stringers are curved to try and follow the hull
starboard is more so than port. Could i just leave the new straight and add a couple of braces (bulk heads ?) Across the bow instead of havibg to bend the new 1x8's ? Also thinking of adding some 1/4" bracing on the outside of the stringers for more floor support. Thoughts about that ? Now onto glass. Been back and forth on what to use on the deck. Now thinking that a layer of 2oz mat topped with a layer of 6oz cloth is good. Also what would you recomend for tabbing ? Was thinking a layer of 6" 6oz then a layer of 8" 6oz.
Another thing that has me baffled. In the bottom of the hull they glassed in a bunch of appx 4x6 pieces of 1/2 plywood. Any idea why ?

 

[Brien S]

And as far as filleting, what about using dyna glass or equivalent ?

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard

go to the DIY stickies at the top of the page. go thru links 14, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b. all your questions will pretty much be answered at that point

Hey all. New to the site. Tons of great info !!!
Transom is rock solid ( whew !!!). Questions are, oem stringers are curved to try and follow the hull

Transom and stringers generally rot together. test drill to be certain

Hey all. New to the site. Tons of great info !!!
could i just leave the new straight and add a couple of braces (bulk heads ?) Across the bow instead of havibg to bend the new 1x8's ? Also thinking of adding some 1/4" bracing on the outside of the stringers for more floor support. Thoughts about that ? Now onto glass. Been back and forth on what to use on the deck. Now thinking that a layer of 2oz mat topped with a layer of 6oz cloth is good. Also what would you recomend for tabbing ? Was thinking a layer of 6" 6oz then a layer of 8" 6oz.

you will not be using dimensional lumber. recommended to use plywood. also, 2 oz and 6 oz not enough. you will be using 1.5 oz CSM and 1708 if you go poly. again, go to the stickies

.
Another thing that has me baffled. In the bottom of the hull they glassed in a bunch of appx 4x6 pieces of 1/2 plywood. Any idea why ?

could be a motor mount or other mount. post pics (see the tutorial in the rules and guidelines forum)

And as far as filleting, what about using dyna glass or equivalent ?

read the stickies, use PB (about 1/5th the cost of dyna glass)

 

[Brien S]

Been reading for a week now and seeing all different methods of tabbing the floor in. Read oops's sticky this am and it's pretty self explanitory. Just on a budget. Lol
bought the 1x because that's what left that of what was glassed in.
little pieces wern't engine mounts. Just layed flat 4 across the bottom (2 up eaxh side) and glassed in bow to stern.
i'm assuming there is a post somewhere on making pb with poly resin ? All i have ever seen is with epoxy.
Whats your thoughts on keeping the stringers straight and adding a bulkhed in the bow ?
i'll get some pics soon. It's not pretty.

 

[Brien S]

[No message]

 

[Brien S]

Oh, and something else. The stringers were not glassed to the transome on both sides leaving a cavity that was filled with foam. Starting to sound lile this has been done before.

 

[kcassells]

Yup factory produced boats just don't cut the mustard. Listen, ask questions and read all you can. Boat will be better than factory...haha. Don't cut corners if you want safety even on a budget. BTW were all on a budget. Shouldn't even own my boat. Wait haha she owns me now. :faint2:

 

[Brien S]

Got home and took some core samples of the transom. It's a tad damp, but solid. Had been painted, and no glass on the inside. I sanded all the paint (or whatever it was) off and will try and dry it (I hope !!!). Looks like the thing that saved the transom is that the wood doesn't go all the way down. Looks to stop about 2" off the bottom. Found more evidence that makes me believe the hulls have been split before.
As far as the little pieces of ply., I'm thinking they were to build up the bilge, and they just continued it up the hull to make it even and not trap any water. I'll prob. put some back so I can have the extra thickness in the bilge.

Shouldn't even own my boat. Wait haha she owns me now. :faint2:

Ya, tell me about it. Been dealing with jet ski's for 4 or 5 years. I should rephrase that, I really need to keep the hull structure under a grand, at least until I get all the jet ski stuff sold.

 

[Woodonglass]

You MIGHT be able to dry the wood but...It will eventually rot. You should plan on replacing it.

 

[Brien S]

I knew that was going to be said. Just went and looked at the transom again. I'm convinced that the cap of the boat has been off, and work done before. There are holes in the glass of the transom where some accessories came through, but not in the wood, and the lower part of the transom that is not wood looks to be some kind of epoxy or filler.
Been reading about using a vacuum pump and heat lamp to dry wet transoms with no wood rot with good results ) yes I'm trying like hell to keep from doing the transom, not for the fact of cutting corners, just really don't want to disturb any of it.
Ironic that had I not stepped on a soft spot in the floor where one of the rear seats was, (pretty much like Friscoboater's Searay, and who is the reason I felt I could tackle this), I would have probably just gotten it running, reupholstered the interior, and put it on the water.

 

[chevymaher]

Transom is alot easier than anything else your doing. And the most important structurally. But i guess in a few years you will need something to do anyway right?

 

[Scott Danforth]

budget and boats are a dichotomy.

if your transom is wet, replace it

you need a lot more grinding..... a lot

read the links I suggested in the stickies. a lot more thorough than Oops thread.

 

[Brien S]

Transom is alot easier than anything else your doing. And the most important structurally. But i guess in a few years you will need something to do anyway right?

:laugh: Nope, don't want to be back into this thing again. Once is more than enough.

budget and boats are a dichotomy.

if your transom is wet, replace it

you need a lot more grinding..... a lot

read the links I suggested in the stickies. a lot more thorough than Oops thread.

I really haven't even started on the grinding and sanding yet. Just cleanup from pulling the floor and stringers and trying to make a plan of attack for how to run the new ones. Going to have to half ass tarp the thing and make a air filter of sorts to keep dust down. UGGG !!!! I'm reading. So much so that my fricken brain hurts, but I'm learning.

Got ya guys. New transom. I know it should be pretty easy at this point, especially not being glassed in. Hoping I work a miracle and just maybe it will release from the hull in one piece (FAT CHANCE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!).

As far as peanut butter, what is everyone's choice of a thickening agent ?

Thanks again for all the help so far !!!!! I might just have a decent little boat when this is done.
On a side note, and I know this should probably go somewhere else, but does anyone know where to get the squared off rub rail inset VIP used on this thing ? Been looking around and have not found it yet. It's 3/4 wide by 5/16 thick.

 

[Scott Danforth]

i used milled fibers and chopped glass.

basically this formula

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...oper-structural-peanut-butter-recipe-pat-pend

however there are times I make "hairy PB where I add a bunch more chopped glass.

 

[Brien S]

Transom out. I was right. The transom had been replaced, but they didn't sand the leftover skin off so it was not 100% bonded to the hull. Thank you so much for insisting i replace it. Sanding almost done. Only about 3 hours in, and thats including tenting the back of the boat and making my little filtration system. Fits over a 20" box fan and works pretty well. Just have to brush it off every now and then. Has 2 light hepa filters under the sheet pre filters.

 

[kcassells]

Boy that's poop Any way you can also use cabosil as a thinckening agent. Typically used and very inexpensive. The consistantcy literally you want is like a jar of peanutbutter. So it satands in place and can be spread on a vertical or horizontal surface.

 

[Brien S]

Boy that's poop Any way you can also use cabosil as a thinckening agent. Typically used and very inexpensive. The consistantcy literally you want is like a jar of peanutbutter. So it satands in place and can be spread on a vertical or horizontal surface.

You can, but I've been looking at Cabosil as being a desiccant before being used, and moisture is the last thing I want in my mix.
Looks like the milled fibers are pretty inexpensive, and I like the idea of staying with glass.

 

[kcassells]

Little more rearch might get you there. You can use any product that makes you comfortable.
Comment from some reading after your comment;
Silica absorbs resin, becomes entombed in it and doesn't cause any issues, once the goo cures. If you have silica that isn't mixed into the resin (which you have to intentional do, because of the mixing qualities of the stuff) then sure you could have some problems. If your mixing skills are causing unsaturated silica to be in the cured resin, you have other problems to deal with, like resin/hardener having incomplete mixture and clumps of silica or other filler material messing up a batch.

The first time you try to mix silica into epoxy, you'll see what I mean. You have to be real sloppy or intentionally not want to mix it in to have unsaturated fluff in you cured resin.

If you had a pile of silica to your resin, sometimes you can get clumps, which are more difficult to mix into the resin. Run the silica through a flour sifter (don't let your wife catch you, and don't ask how I know), which will break up the clumps and provide a smooth, easier to mix batch. Often it's best to learn by doing, rather then reading . . .

Frisco boater on peanut butter...good read. ;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3kmr9ZctUo

 

[Woodonglass]

FYI, DON'T overthink things. You have to trust the years of experience on this forum and not go chasing down to many rabbit trails. If someone steers you wrong you can trust that some member will get you back on course. Cabosil IS the optimum resin thickening agent. Concentrate on getting the old stuff out and the hull prepped for the go back. You'll be fine.

 

[dezmond]

FYI, DON'T overthink things. You have to trust the years of experience on this forum and not go chasing down to many rabbit trails. If someone steers you wrong you can trust that some member will get you back on course. Cabosil IS the optimum resin thickening agent. Concentrate on getting the old stuff out and the hull prepped for the go back. You'll be fine.

I was really worried at first as well.. I asked and got some great answers on PB mixing and what to use... I haven't had any problems yet with all the great advice on here.. No worries dude, we got ya covered