93 Prowler restoration

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
Okay, I've dug into it some more. The cross members were rotten but still had strength to them given that they were marine grade plywood, I'm impressed. Because they skinned the tops off the cross members in a few spots they let water in. Unfortunately they didn't PB under the cross members they just glassed over which created a nice channel under the marine ply for water to run over to the solid wood stringers. Stringers are rotten on the ends but look more solid a it gets towards the bow. The stringers between the stern cross member and the stern are totally soaked and rotten. Unfortunately there's no glass between those stringers and the motor mounts so the motor mounts are partially if not fully rotten. Sigh.

I was really really hoping that the motor mounts would be good because I don't have the tools or knowledge to get the motor and stern drive off. Transom from what I can see / tell looks good.

I know I'm going to use marine plywood to replace the stringers and cross members. I'm at a loss on how to accomplish the motor mounts. Part of me in thinking of finding a way to reduce the weight of the engine with some straps up to the ceiling and cutting the inside / outside sides off the mounts, dig the crap out, slide a new block of wood in heavily laced with PB and then re-glass.

Currently the boat is on it's trailer and the supports go under the mounts. Am I risking anything removing the flooring and stringers yet leaving the motor in? (structure wise)

How big a deal is it to rent a hoist, remove the engine and stern drive and be able to get it all back together? (successfully) I'm more of a woodworker / metal worker at heart. Engines and drives are not my comfort area beyond some of the more simple areas like gasket replacements and general maintenance. I'm handy but not a mechanic.

Are there places that will do this part for me? I'm in the west end of Toronto Ontario, Canada.
Happy Thanksgiving to those in the U.S.!

You guys have been great, if there's an area I should be looking and reading up on before asking stupid questions here please let me know.
 

dezmond

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
760
I/O setups are very easy to pull. Don’t overthink it. Take lots of pictures before you start to remove anything. There are manuals you can download as well for reference. I never pulled an engine before. Everyone here were amazingly helpful and it only took me less than a day and I had it all out. You really should be pulling the engine so you can get in there and investigate. I bet you will be re doing your transom and mounts. Your a wood worker so these areas are will you will shine :). I’m about an hour and a half west of you :). No questions are stupid questions. Ask away. Sometimes it may take a bit to get the answers but they will come ;). Good luck and make sure you post lots of pics.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,307
45 minutes to an hour to remove the drive and the motor

another 20 minutes to remove the transom sheild

build a cradle setup to support the hull (you can build it on your trailer)

no need for marine plywood, exterior grade ACX works just fine (same glue, slightly different wood)

your transom is most likely wet as well

welcome to the restoration club... read the stickies... time to get itchy.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Build one of these for Less than $60 and
Get a 1/2 ton Block and tackle and
pulling the motor will be easy.

Hoist-01-1.jpg

Also build an outdrive rolling stand like this.

outdrive stand.jpg
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
Thanks for the ideas and encouragement. I'll read / YouTube up on it and let you know. If I can get a bit comfortable with it I may try it. The pics of the frames help as well.

For the wood I think I'll stick to marine ply. I can get it here for $133 a sheet which isn't too much more and I was quite impressed with the strength left in it compared to the wood. I also get the sense that home depot and lowes is much better stocked in the U.S. than Canada. Thanks for the idea though, I am trying to conceive. Planning on going polyester resin certainly helped me get the budget back in line.

I think ill try the stern drive this weekend. I see more videos on that and can probably manage that easier than the motor.

What gasket kit's or other consumables will I need to put it back together? Do i need to do things like the gimbal bearing while I'm in there? I dont want to get into a rebuild but if there are things that should be done while its apart it's probably a good idea. Bellows look to be in decent condition.

To think, my major concern prior to this was idea of having to split the hull. Splitting the hull seems much less daunting than this. 😁
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,307
ACX is $37 a sheet. You will need about 7 sheets of plywood (4 sheets before you even get to put the deck down) . That is an extra $700 your spending. However it is your boat
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
I figured I'd need 3 sheets for the deck and stringers. I wouldn't use it for jigs or anything last I recall plywood here was about 80 a sheet. I'll check today. I hope you're right though.
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
Well, you're on the good new crew eh? :)

You're right I was looking at best case scenario which is unlikely.
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
ACX plywood is $58 here. You'd think this stuff would be cheaper in Canada given that we're a resources country but all our steel, oil, aluminum and wood etc gets processed in the U.S. and shipped back.
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
Wow I got the stern drive unit off and onto a cart.

looking at this the drive bellows had water in it but the universal joints look and move decently. Will that kill the bearing on the drive shaft?

what's the next logical step? Motor or gimbal? I haven't found any decent videos on removing the motor. They typically set up get to hoisting and then flash forward to done. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated as always.
 

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chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,914
Motor is next. I borrowed a Gantry the first time. Second time I bought a chain hoist and used lots of chains between the trees in the back yard.

Boats are really simple. Wiring unplugs. Gas line. A few cables and a few bolts.
 

TrevorStott

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 6, 2018
Messages
83
I'm going to build the wood gantry above I happen to have a 2000lb winch that I can use to lift the motor. Haven't quite figured out the logistics yet but with a couple of Pullies it should be good. The motor mounts are easy to unbolt. It's the rear of the motor that I'm lost with.

I see 3 points on the motor to tie into for the host 2 should suffice but the third looks like it'll help with orientation.

I also want to build a dolly to mount the motor on for storage but I'll spend some time planning this out.
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,914
2 nuts and bolts in the back. Take the nuts off. lift and release pressure. Slide the bolts out.
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,914
These 2 critters sticking up. No matter what motor or drive you have they in the same place. Loosen them and the nuts at the bottom come off.
 

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