2000 Bayliner Capri 2050LX starting rot in front walkway.

Shippy96

Cadet
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
19
I have a 2000 Bayliner that I noticed has 2 soft spots across from eachother on the front walkway. The spot feels no bigger than about a 3 by 3 square what i believe it was caused by a bad front cover (When i purchased the boat earlier this year there was a week long thunderstorms and i found out it was dripping in the corners where there is now soft spots). I am no expert when it comes to rot in boats but if i had to guess its in the beginning stages of rotting as if I dig my heel into it there is enough give i can notice it but not enough that if you werent looking for it specifically you probably wouldn't notice it. I was able to take some photos of the underside of the plywood and was curious if people with more experience could tell me how bad the rot is looking and how much it looks like im going to have to replace. The main sport is located right after the stringer where the front walkway portion to the front of the boat is.
 

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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
It's TOAST! You'll need to remove and replace. Don't be surprised when you get the deck off that you find a LOT more issues below. Boats of this vintage, especially Bayliners tend to have issues with rotting decks, stringers, motor-mounts and transoms. Boats tend to rot from the bottom up, so be prepared for some major restoration work
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,624
Pictures are quite blurry, can't really tell much from them . . . so keep the day job. :)

Usually, boats rot from the keel upward. I would take a look in the stern/transom area to see if there is more moisture/rot. Don't go cutting stuff just yet, but you could drill some test holes low in the structure, near the hull surface to see if you get water.
 

Shippy96

Cadet
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
19
Thats the only spot that i can feel that underneath looks like its starting to dry rot, and the spot itself isnt very noticeable when stepped on.. ive walked most if not all of the deck and there hasnt been any soft spots that ive been able to notice. Im assuming the only reason the front looks like that is like i said the cover was dripping in the exact spot the soft spots are in the front (I didnt notice them until after the storms), and I think after a week straight of bad thunderstorms and it staying basically soaked it caused the soft spot and sped up what is seen in the pictures. (ironically storms happened 2 days after purchase so new cover didnt arrive in time). I have done work around the boat and, yes i know it being almost 20 years old it most likely has more rot but none that i have been able to see around the boat that has caused a real problem yet.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
It's not the rot you can feel and see that should concern you. It's what's under the deck that could be a BIG issue. The BONES of the boat are not readily accessed but...they ARE the main structural elements. Patching a deck that only has a few soft spots is not advisable. LOTs of examples of this here on the forum.
 

xanthras

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
76
A lot of smart guys on here, and they may be 100% accurate, especially since its a Bayliner. Like TP said, I would start taking core samples all over the place. The samples should should tell the full story.
 

Shippy96

Cadet
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Messages
19
What is "The Itchin". So most likely I will have to get the deck replaced? Whats the best way to take core samples, and assuming the more experienced people are right (which they probably are) how much would replacing the deck cost and would it be worth it and how hard would it be?
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 10, 2012
Messages
5,525
"the Itchin' " refers to the itchy job of grinding out old fiberglass to make way for new. I think the suggestion is that you likely are facing more than just a complete deck replacement.

Generally, by the time you find soft spots on the deck, the structural components underneath (stringers, bulkheads and transom core) already show substantial rot. (That's what folks here mean when they say "boats rot from the keel up.") The chances are that when you core sample your stringers (the structural members that run under your deck along the length of the boat) and your transom core you will find some wet and/or rotten wood. In 2000, many boat makers still were using wood encapsulated with fiberglass for those components, and very often water that finds its way below decks or into the bilge will saturate the wood, which eventually rots.

You may be one among the very lucky few who has soft spots in the deck without any problems below, but if so, you are in the extreme minority. More typically, people look further and find much of structure below has been compromised and needs to be replaced.

It's pretty easy to check your boat for rot. Get a 1/4" drill and drill some holes sideways into your stringers near the bottom (try not to drill through the hull!). You can normally reach them easily through ski lockers or by the gas tank (if your boat has a removable panel to get at the tank). The motor mounts are also normally attached to (or part of) the stringers, and you should check them in the same manner. To check your transom, drill (from the inside) only 1" deep or so, at various places near the bottom and around the keyhole and an other thru-hull fittings. On some boats, you may have to remove carpeted panels behind the engine/storage areas to actually see the inside of the transom.

If your shavings are light and dry, you are good. If they are wet and/or dark, you have problems. After checking, you can fill the holes with a marine sealant like 3M 5200.

No on here hope your boat has rot, but we've all read too many stories that start like yours and end with a total restoration.

Let us know what you find.
 

Mad Props

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 8, 2016
Messages
1,766
I agree with everyone here (especially because i have basically the same boat :D). Mine is a 96 2050 but structure is going to be almost identical. I bought mine knowing I was restoring it so I had less denial about opening her up, but started out basically the same as you, soft spot on the floor.
2 summers later cuz I have no free time, I'm still in the resto process. That being said, it can be done MUCH MUCH quicker.

Do as was suggested and take core samples, and then when you find rot, come back here and start reading this:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980
Then if you feel like it, you can take a look at my thread if you want to see what your in for on a boat like yours...
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...69-96-bayliner-2050-the-dirty-rotten-baystard
I also started to document my rebuild over on my youtube channel, however, I didn't start to document until the rebuild process so not gonna be much over there on demo...
https://www.youtube.com/user/jross82785

Good luck!
 
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