Upholstery Question

IamMe

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
25
So I am planning on attempting to redo my own seats for several reasons.
1. I like learning new skills
2. I enjoy doing things to the boat
3. I am a glutton for punishment
4 Attempting to stop the wife from killing me

I have noticed that my seats are built like cells. Even rectangular seats are basically built as three cells about 6" wide and 60" long. Is this purely cosmetic or is there a structural reason for this. My seats a damaged to the point I will have to start from scratch even large portions of foam have deteriorated. I honestly could care less about extra flare. I do want a decent looking seat that isn't a giant foamless hole.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,621
Cushion sizing has to do with with the shape of the seat/piece that is being covered, as well as the desired appearance. A single large cushion will look and feel different than 3 smaller ones to cover the same area.

i would try to come as close to original as possible, rather than experimenting.
 

IamMe

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
25
Ill see if I can get some pics in a little bit. I have a choice of machines and one is commercial. One is a heavy duty singer. I have been a member for a while but seem to struggle with using this forum. We will see what I can accomplish with loading pics.
 

IamMe

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
25
I can care less about popping colors and pretty designs. I would just assume have a single cushion seat where its possible.
 

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harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
Pay attention to how the seats were constructed when you tear them apart. Often those panels, especially those separated by beading have extended fabric inside the seam. This is stapled to the seat or panel plywood. This is done if your seats have different height foam for knee contours, etc., if the seat or panel is curved. It's done to keep the upholstery tight against the foam. If any of the upholstery sections are like this, I'd repeat it.

If the stitching is purely for aesthetics, you can leave it out. I've done some re upholstery, mostly replacing flat foam. I paid a pro to redo my seats recently. The original Larson had stitched, or faux stitching for looks. That fabric was unavailable, so went for a plain sand bead surface. Looks great.

The key is to get a good quality, stiff, marine grade foam. Yours has settled, so guess the thickness you'll need. It will be more than you have. The other critical point is to stretch the heck out of it when you staple the fabric over foam. You'll need two good knees and a helper. Be sure to use stainless steel staples. Harbor Freight has good pneumatic crown staplers for <$25. Amazon has the SS staples.
 

IamMe

Cadet
Joined
May 30, 2016
Messages
25
All of those panels have fabric stapled to the wood. Im going back with all the same thickness foam and a little higher density. I guess i will have to rethink my process a little.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
The curved back sections are called Bolsters. They're a bit tricky to do but...Not so bad that you couldn't duplicate them. As stated pay attention on the tear out and take LOTS of pics for future reference. A walking Foot machine is ideal for upholstery but NOT absolutely necessary. I've done a LOT of boat seats using a Singer 15-91 machine. Its inexpensive but does a good job. 32oz marine vinyl is ideal. I'd recommend a 50# compression rated foam or higher for your seats. It's easy to cut and shape the foam using an electric Carving knife. For sure get a Pneumatic Stapler. You do want to stretch the vinyl but...Do NOT stretch it too much. It's not good for the vinyl. Do use a heat gun or hair dryer to make it more pliable during installation and help get rid or wrinkles. Keep us posted on your progress
 

harringtondav

Commander
Joined
May 26, 2018
Messages
2,438
All of those panels have fabric stapled to the wood. Im going back with all the same thickness foam and a little higher density. I guess i will have to rethink my process a little.

Those extra seams and staple down strips (pros know the name) require stitching thru three layers, five if you replace the beading trim. Looking at your pics, the functional need for these staple strips seems to be to separate the top and bottom horizontal sections of the seat backs, stern trim panel, and the seat's knee roll - the forward most section of the seats that is normally a little thicker/higher than the rest of the seat.

Since the upper long sections of the vertical panels don't have the beading and staple strips, you could simplify the job by making the lower sections the same, w/o the vertical beading - if you're willing to trade off simplicity for style. Same with the seats. Make the main section/cell a single piece of upholstery w/o any beading, and add the staple strip for the knee rolls. My sun deck/ engine bay cover stretches from port - starboard, only attached at the underside of the edges. My bud's Rinker rear seat is the same width and is also a single span. Both are tight as a drum.

So if you eliminate the beading, and non-functional staple strips, the job will be much simpler, and will still look very nice when complete. ...also, unless you know how to run a sewing machine - practice on scrap. It's a fairly fast learning curve.
 
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