Transom Questions

JASinIL2006

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Personally, I'd use at least two bolts, maybe three, for the bolts that go through the OMC hole. I'd use at least three total for the top board, too. Gives you much more control as your clamping down.

I'd also make sure the 2x4 boards for clamping are perfectly flat/straight.

Otherwise, it looks pretty good!
 

76SeaRay

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Got some more work done over the weekend. Did a bunch more grinding to get the hull flat and the same thickness all over. It appears that the factory never clamped the plywood at the bottom of the transom sufficiently to get it flat. A lot of resin build up. Here are some pics of the grinding:

Grind 1.jpgGrind 2.jpg
 

76SeaRay

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Also did some work on dry fit and made some clamping boards. Didn't get to the top clamp board yet. Here are a couple of pics;

Dry Fit 1.jpgDry Fit 2.jpgDry Fit 3.jpg
 

76SeaRay

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Additional note, the dark spots on the plywood are the screws pulling the two sheets of plywood together during the Titebond cure. I will be pulling those out and filling the holes with resin before I install it and cover it with fabric. By the way, approximately 20 sq ft of two layers 3/4 inch is rather heavy. In the upper left and right corners you can see the heads of the alignment bolts I will use to hold it in the correct position until it is clamped. I really hate to drill anymore holes for clamping bolts though. The two holes in the center will actually get cut out when I cut the new Mercruiser Alpha drive keyhole. Unfortunately since this was an OMC originally, I have no way to cut the keyhole in the plywood until after it is glassed in and the OMC hole is patched on the outside.
 

76SeaRay

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Now, back to the weep hole question for bonding the plywood to the hull. Here is what I plan in the yellow dots. Ideas, thoughts and/or comments please? Thanks...

Weep Holes Transom Install.JPG
 

sphelps

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Grinding and fabrication looks great ! I think I would add a couple more holes like maybe 2 on each side around the bottom ..But that’s just me . I don’t think there is really a formula for it ...
 

JASinIL2006

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Grinding and fabrication looks great ! I think I would add a couple more holes like maybe 2 on each side around the bottom ..But that’s just me . I don’t think there is really a formula for it ...

I agree. Otherwise, looks good. (I’d still use more bolts in the clamps in the OMC holes, though.)
 

76SeaRay

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I guess I could put it back in dry then put a temporary patch piece to fill the outside of the OMC hole. That would allow me to trace the Mercruiser cutout on the outside of the transom. I just want to make sure I don't put any extra holes at or near where the Gimbal ring bolts will go through. So, trying to make sure extra holes get cutout with the new key hole or put them outboard of the key hole enough to miss the mounting areas of the Alpha while not adding anymore holes to the outer hull. More work for this weekend.
 

JASinIL2006

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I guess I could put it back in dry then put a temporary patch piece to fill the outside of the OMC hole. That would allow me to trace the Mercruiser cutout on the outside of the transom. I just want to make sure I don't put any extra holes at or near where the Gimbal ring bolts will go through. So, trying to make sure extra holes get cutout with the new key hole or put them outboard of the key hole enough to miss the mounting areas of the Alpha while not adding anymore holes to the outer hull. More work for this weekend.

Do you have the Alpha template?
 

76SeaRay

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Yes, I have the Alpha paper template. Wish I could afford the metal drill template but those prices are ridiculous..
 

76SeaRay

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Finally, finally getting back to this work... Many distractions but I did move forward with the engine build. It is in the assembly stage. So, I plan to use West Systems epoxy to bond the plywood to the hull.

Here goes the additional questions:

1) Do I need to put chop mat on the plywood first and then use peanut butter between the plywood and hull or just seal the plywood with resin and then peanut butter when putting it in place?

2) Since I have that big OMC hole to fill in the hull, is it best to leave that area free of epoxy and use polyester resin to layer out the hole for gel coat?

3) This is a large transom area so concerned with setting time since it will take a while to coat the transom wood and hull before setting the wood in place. I have both fast and slow hardener, will be likely putting it in place as soon as the weather hits 70 degrees (SW Washington State location). Thoughts on hardener?

I am trying to convince myself that I can do this and end up with a solid bond that I don't have to worry about out on the water. I see the West Systems uses a "calibrated" dispensing system to get the epoxy to hardener ratios correct so I guess I don't need to worry to much about it not setting up due to screwing up the hardener amount. So need to satisfy myself that I have enough time to get the peanut butter in place, the new transom in place, and then clamping done before it all sets up.

By the way, I do now have the Mercruiser Keyhole metal drill template once I get to that point.
 

Woodonglass

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Plywood needs to be fully encased in epoxy. I'd recommend using 8oz biax on the back side and 18oz on the front side and for tabbing to the hull. The PB is used to fill any and all voids between the plywood and the outer skin. With Larger transoms like this you WILL need a helper. Use the slow hardener on a cool morning. 70 degrees would be Perfect. Make sure to have your clamps ready and do a dry run first to ensure you know all the steps and their proper order. You only get one chance!!!! You'll need 2 quarts of PB at the very least and be ready to mix a quick 3rd if needed. Be ready to make your cove joints on the PB all around the perimeter of the transom when it squeezes out.
 

76SeaRay

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Thanks. So, do I apply the 8oz biax onto backside of the plywood first while I have it on the bench, let it cure, then peanut butter the outer hull skin and set the plywood into place? I think that is how the FriscoBoater video's showed it although I think he skim coated the plywood and the outer hull both when he set the plywood in place as opposed to just peanut butter on the outer hull?
 

76SeaRay

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Bump....

Thanks. So, do I apply the 8oz biax onto backside of the plywood first while I have it on the bench, let it cure, then peanut butter the outer hull skin and set the plywood into place? I think that is how the FriscoBoater video's showed it although I think he skim coated the plywood and the outer hull both when he set the plywood in place as opposed to just peanut butter on the outer hull?

Also, should I leave the area of the OMC hole free of epoxy and use polyester to glass in the OMC hole later after the plywood is epoxied in place (Gelcoat Bonding concern)?
 

sphelps

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I think I would lay up a layer or 2 of csm with poly on the outside covering the old key hole .. Fasten a piece of plywood on the inside to cover the hole with a layer of plastic or clear packing tape on it . That will keep the poly from sticking to it ..
Let it cure then take the plywood off ... Then you can epoxy your transom in place then cut the new key hole . That way no epoxy where you want to gell ...
I would lay the epoxy on the backside of the new wood ,let cure , then pb your new transom in place ..
A 1/4” notched trowel and do both surfaces ...
 

mav6759

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Instead of all that, I would look in Seacast..that stuff is amazing for transoms. I did my transom in 2003 and my boat is still going strong. I would never use wood again
 

sphelps

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Seacast is a good product . I’ve used it twice .. Plywood and glass is good also .. As long as done correctly and maintained ..
 

Woodonglass

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No need for Fabric on the back of the transom. You Can't use Polyester resin on top of Epoxy. It will NOT adhere.
 

GSX455

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Aug 21, 2016
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WOG,
I've read and researched that vinyl ester will bond to epoxy. I have used epoxy for wooden table tops and water does not get through. Because I sealed my stringers with epoxy, I was going to use vinylester because it has the same backbone as epoxy just the ends are ester.
if I sealed my stringers in epoxy, is it now safer to use epoxy all the way? Thanks for all your sage advice.
GSX
 
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