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  • #31
    I would suggest you wet out both sides of the plywood with epoxy resin so when you glue together . The pieces the ply does not soak up the resin to fast out of the pb mix ...
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------
    '64 MFG Rebuild
    MFG forum thread https://forums.iboats.com/mfg/64-edin...ay-524708.html
    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ve-the-manatee
    https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-restoration

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    • #32
      Ok, will do. I was thinking that the joint between the two layers of 3/4 plywood would be just epoxy resin to "glue" them together. But, based on your comment, it should be a thin layer of PB.

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      • #33
        Yep epoxy can be a little runny. So thickening it a bit I think would give better adhesion .
        I would use a 1/4” notched trowel or smaller to spread the glue .
        ---------------------------------------------------------------------
        '64 MFG Rebuild
        MFG forum thread https://forums.iboats.com/mfg/64-edin...ay-524708.html
        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ve-the-manatee
        https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-restoration

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        • #34
          The accepted method for gluing the wood to the glass is...
          Thin coat of resin on the plywood flat and edges. Use Cabosil to thicken the epoxy to the consistency of Creamy Peanut butter (Thus the name) and then use a 3/8" notched trowel to spread it onto both the wood and the glass. Medium pressure on the clamps. Just enuf to get some squeeze out around all the edges. DO NOT CLAMP DOWN Hard. You want plenty of the PB between the wood and the glass.
          1961 Lonestar Flamingo - SPLASHED...Kinda!!
          Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms
          Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

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          • #35
            between the two pieces of wood, i have used PB, Epoxy, and Tite-Bond III. they all work
            Cheesehead boating the Gulf Coast of FLA 27.51° N, 82.53° W

            1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - https://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

            Past Boats
            1970 Wooster Hellion - Merc 9.8
            2002 SeaRay 190BR - 5.0 - A1G2 - "Cheeseheads in Paradise"
            1984 Avanti 170DLI -3.0 stringer- "Ship Happens"

            What’s behind you doesn’t matter.Enzo Ferrari

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            • #36
              I picked up two sheets of 3/4 marine grade ply yesterday. I will be making a template this coming Saturday and then cutting the two pieces of ply to laminate. How much do you let the epoxy "soak" coat set up before putting on the PB and laying the two pieces together.

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              • #37
                Another question on bonding the two layers of 3/4 plywood outside the boat. I have seen in some threads where people talk about adding "weep" holes to allow the epoxy to weep out under clamping. Is this necessary? If so, how big should the holes be and how many/how far apart?

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                • #38
                  So, I made the template this weekend. However, as I was cleaning up the surfaces for a good fit, I found that the fiberglass near the bottom of the transom has a gap between the surface and the transom outer hull. Hard to explain but it looks like a layer of fiberglass over the entire transom but at the bottom it is thicker and not attached to the hull. As I show in a picture earlier in this post, the fiberglass and hull is thicker at the bottom of the OMC hole. Here are some pictures:

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                  • #39
                    In addition to the above, it looks like the thickness starts increasing from the floor line down to the bottom of the hull. So, I am wondering what to do with this. My initial thought is to use a belt sander and grind down that lower portion so the thickness is consistent top to bottom, remove the lip and fill in with CSM extending about 2 to 3 inches from the bottom of the hull, and then smooth it out.

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                    • #40
                      Here is a drawing of the problem, both the lip and thickness problems...

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                      • #41
                        I'll preface this post with the fact that I'm working on my first restore so take this with a large grain of salt ... but my transom area looked similar and, although mine is set up for an outboard and uniform thickness wasn't really a concern, I wasn't sure if I should keep grinding that off or if that was normal and I was going to end up grinding too far. I chose to keep going (carefully) and I was glad I did because after I started to remove some more of the uneven resin I found larger sections of fiberglass that weren't wetted out much at all and were almost completely dry. I just used my grinder like I had on the other parts of the transom.
                        Just fwiw...

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                        • #42
                          I would grind out any of the loose glass ..The new wood may not bond very well in those area . You can glass in new patches In those areas before the transom install .
                          As far as wetting out the the ply before pb . It really does not matter . You can do that the day before or at the same time . If done the day before I would sand to roughen it up a bit first before pb .
                          ‘The holes if you choose to do that can be around a half inch but I don’t see the need to make much bigger .
                          The thought is it gives a void for the pb to ooze and kind of make a structural through bolt or nail through the assembly .
                          Its an old school thing . Some do it others may not ...
                          Hope this helps !
                          ---------------------------------------------------------------------
                          '64 MFG Rebuild
                          MFG forum thread https://forums.iboats.com/mfg/64-edin...ay-524708.html
                          https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ve-the-manatee
                          https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-restoration

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by 76SeaRay View Post
                            Another question on bonding the two layers of 3/4 plywood outside the boat. I have seen in some threads where people talk about adding "weep" holes to allow the epoxy to weep out under clamping. Is this necessary? If so, how big should the holes be and how many/how far apart?
                            I used 1/4” relief holes. I think they help in a couple ways, in addition to the mechanical bond sphelps mentioned. First, I think the holes help the transom shield from ‘floating’ on the PB so much, which makes positioning a bit easier. Second, it allows you to really slather on the PB so you can easily tighten the clamps to reach your target thickness.

                            The downside is this can be a bit messier, but it was worth it to me.
                            Location: West Central Illinois, USA 1997 Larson 186 SEi Bowrider I/O Mercruiser 350 #0F747565 Mag Alpha One Gen II #1A270120 Transom and Deck Restoration Project on my '97 Larson Bowrider

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                            • #44
                              Thanks. I was thinking I would probably grind off the lower lip that is not bonded and then patch it after I grind down the thicker portion to get to a consistent thickness from the top to the bottom at 7/16 inches thick.

                              On the weep holes, would you use them when bonding the two layers of plywood by drilling holes in one sheet only? Then, once the two layers are laminated together would you drill holes again through both layers of plywood before bonding them to the transom hull? I assume you don't mean to drill holes through the transom hull to the outside.

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                              • #45
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                                No don’t drill through the transom to the outside ! LOL ! I guess you could drill the holes in one sheet for the lamination if you want . Not sure if I have seen that done . It’s usually done when installing to the transom skin . I don’t think there is a preferred spacing . I think I put them like every 6“ or so once ..
                                ---------------------------------------------------------------------
                                '64 MFG Rebuild
                                MFG forum thread https://forums.iboats.com/mfg/64-edin...ay-524708.html
                                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ve-the-manatee
                                https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...at-restoration

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