WebbCraft Complete Restoration

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
Dang! Great progress so far, Sad that you had to put so many snails out of homes, but at least you and the wife will have a rockin boat by the time you are done.

Hopping on along for the ride!

What are your thoughts on how to refill your stringers?
 

byson2

Seaman
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
66
Nice restoration going on there. We're neighbors as I live right on the Wilson County line in Old Hickory. I was given a 20' 4 Winns that needs the same amount of work your Webb Craft does. Good luck!
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Dang! Great progress so far, Sad that you had to put so many snails out of homes, but at least you and the wife will have a rockin boat by the time you are done.

Hopping on along for the ride!

What are your thoughts on how to refill your stringers?

Please do not turn me into PETA. For all I know it could have been a protected snail sanctuary...

I'm not sure about the stringers. they had what looked like preformed foam that was put inside the stringers before they were caped off. I think 2 or 4 lb foam poured and caped before I put the deck back is my path for now. But I'm always open to suggestions.
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Nice restoration going on there. We're neighbors as I live right on the Wilson County line in Old Hickory. I was given a 20' 4 Winns that needs the same amount of work your Webb Craft does. Good luck!

hey neighbor. Its not easy work but I really don't mind it yet. Well except for the mosquitos. I really hate them! If you ever need a hand let me know
 

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
Please do not turn me into PETA. For all I know it could have been a protected snail sanctuary...

I'm not sure about the stringers. they had what looked like preformed foam that was put inside the stringers before they were caped off. I think 2 or 4 lb foam poured and caped before I put the deck back is my path for now. But I'm always open to suggestions.

haha all life is sacred, but I dont think anyone will be crying over a few snails.

And I have no experience with foam filled. I've only worked with wood core stringers. I was more hoping to learn from you! Seems like a reasonable idea. I feel like you would want to enclose the cavities, and then drill holes in the top to put the foam into, similar to how you fill the cavities under decks. But again, not much to reference on my side.

And I would also go with the densest foam. 10# rather than 2. Just to get more structural rigidity.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
2# foam is sufficient. The foam is ONLY additional flotation and acts as a form for the glass.
 

ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
2# foam is sufficient. The foam is ONLY additional flotation and acts as a form for the glass.

Interesting. I figured it would also be used for strength. Or else why would you have wood stringers?
 

chevymaher

Commander
Joined
Mar 29, 2017
Messages
2,915
Interesting. I figured it would also be used for strength. Or else why would you have wood stringers?

2# is quite a bit of strength. Try taking some out with a claw hammer doing a demo. Quite a bit of strength indeed. Hit it full strength only a small divot. You would get the point quick. That stuff makes the boat very much stronger. Walk on it no foot prints at all.

The heavier for strength variety. Read what they do with it. No wood nothing it is a airplane wing. They make statues out of it.
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
I think 2# should work. i need to start working on my materials list which brings me to my next question for the group. Let me state up front I'm not looking for a fight only insights.

Poly vs epoxy...

I know a lot of folks on here go the poly route but i'm heavily leaning towards epoxy. I'm assuming mostly based on $ but I wonder with the amount of poly csm uses would it not be close to go the epoxy route and enjoy a better product? I'm not calling poly a bad product by no means but based on their characteristics epoxy is better. Also, with colder months heading my way does one lend itself better than the other or should I just work on other things and wait for spring?

I've found a good supplier in town for marine plywood so at least I don't have to worry with that.

btw I've belonged to the overbuilt club since 77... :)
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Interesting. I figured it would also be used for strength. Or else why would you have wood stringers?

Wood is the easiest and most economical "Mold" to use for forming the Glass Stringers. IF the glass is of sufficient thickness then the material used for molding them is Moot! The Glass carries the load. However...The Glass needs to be 1/4" thick to make this happen. These stringers are Square tubes of ample thickness to carry the load. The foam Moldiing material is insignificant now. But as stated, it will add additional flotation so not a bad idea to fill them again. Foaming the entire hull under the deck WILL give more stiffness and structural support to the hull but the main benefit is for flotation, in case of catastrophic failure.
Hope this helps.
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Well I've finally broke loose from the sand bar of life and found some time to work on the boat... I've got the transom ready for epoxy and predrilled the holes so I can backfill them with thickened epoxy filler and re-drill so no contact with the wood.

I do have a question about the bolts on the key hole. Since they are so close to the edge I'm not sure its a good idea to drill them but I may try. Those probably need it the most. My supplies should be here later this week so hopefully the weather will allow it. I'm ready to see some progress.

I hope everyone is having a safe and Merry Christmas!

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JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Was able to get more done last couple days. Predrilled all the through transom holes and filled with epoxy pb except for the keyhole I'll take care of them once I mount the new transom. I should have made my second layer of play shorter but I can work with this.

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This is what it looked like from the backside after filling the holes.

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Finally after wrestling with this I mixed up some resin glue and have it set. Thankfully the weather is really nice and should cure nicely. I bit to handle with only two hands but I made it work. I left a fairly large gap at the bottom and will fill that with pb next along with the strakes I cutout. I have two coats front and back of epoxy on the transom. Really glad to have this in.

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Nice to start putting pack... long way to go.
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Couldn't have had a better weekend with the weather. I didn't get as much done as I would have liked but making good progress.
  • cleaned up the key hole and cutout the turning radius
  • two applications of tabbing of 17b on the transom
  • two applications of 17b on the transom
  • stringers bed in pb and tabbed to transom, stringer, and hull
  • glued up a keel to go back in from marine ply I had leftover
  • I have the keel ready to coat with epoxy and bed then glass in.
I need to decide if I want to keep the ski locker to just fill it with foam. I'm sure the storage would be nice to have but I'll noodle that around a bit.

When you install the gas tank are you going in level or a little proud in front so the gas will drain to the pickup?

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until next time...
 

Big Gee

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
173
When you turn the corner and start reassembly it's a great feeling.

Looking good! :thumb:
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
When you turn the corner and start reassembly it's a great feeling.

Looking good! :thumb:

Yes it is. I did get a bit more done tonight but nothing really photogenic... coated the keel with epoxy and pb it in. Hopefully this weekend I can get it glassed. It'd be nice to get the tank back in the boat and out of my garage.
 

JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
Well I found some time to get a bit more completed. Tank cleaned and ready to install. I need to replace the sending unit... it was totally rusted. I changed how I found it and made a wider platform for the tank to sit on. Hope to install this weekend and start putting the sole back in.

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JonNmtJuliet

Seaman
Joined
Oct 13, 2018
Messages
57
I did manage to get some work done over the weekend.
  • Tank installed
  • most of the sole down I have the bow left and a couple of small strips in the back. yes its dirty i need to clean it up.
It's really nice to have a solid surface to walk on again and boy is the boat stiff now. I decided to save my epoxy for the glass and used pl to adhere to the stringers and hull. No screws just loaded the floor with all my dumb bells. I knew I would need them for something... It did swell but I should be able to lightly sand a radius in it for the glass work.

Just because nothing is straight I found center and marked lengths every 3". That seemed to give me plenty of precision but every 6" would probably have worked just as good.

Also, I need help identifying the tank sending unit. I didn't see a part number anywhere unless its underneath and rusted beyond seeing it. any ideas?

Also, still on the fence with cutting the locker but I hate to lose the storage space so probably need to find a hatch.

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ACon977

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 21, 2017
Messages
759
Did I miss where you re-filled your stringers with foam?

Fun project to follow along, making good progress.

I dont know anything about that tank unit, but I'm sure someone on here will!
 

kcassells

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 16, 2012
Messages
8,600
Just buy a new unit then make it fit. They come with the ability to fit to different tank depths for adjustment. All you need to know is the tank depth to select and order.
Start with a look into Moeller, not sure of the spelling.
 
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