First rebuild - '89 Campion Allante 185 - Stringers, Deck, Transom

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
401
I gave you so many heads ups I can't count. I would still rip it out and redo cause "IT'S MY FREAKIN BOAT AND I WANT IT RIGHT AND SAFE."
Your job is to research and make decisions with good information and bad information.
BTW......I've been there done that too!

I asked about it in October which I linked to earlier and then I asked again in February:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...tringers-deck-transom?p=10701909#post10701909

I am doing what I was guided to do. Your advice was very much appreciated but came 5 days ago for the first time when you asked why the multiple pieces of 1/4" plywood:

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boa...tringers-deck-transom?p=10714129#post10714129

By that time I had already made the multiple layers for the transom.
So in my eyes I did the research as best I could and made good decisions based on WOG's recommendation. I said before that much of the trouble was because I didn't remove the entire back part of the cap to expose the whole transom area, and WOG instructed me to do that back in October, so that is all on me. But even though I didn't follow your instructions which I've already said is probably the way to go if others are researching this at the beginning of their rebuild, I don't think I'm being unsafe building it as a single piece as was recommended multiple times.

I appreciate your opinion as I've said already and so since it is my boat and I made the decision, the outcome is on me. So let's move on to bigger and better things. :)
 

Mechanicalmike08

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Aug 29, 2018
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308
Keep at her, it can all be fixed. I've made mistakes and in this kind of work unless you do it daily were all learning as we go.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
Messages
401
Thanks Mike.
And just some final thoughts after doing the transom the way I did: If you're planning on doing one similarly, for whatever reason, I'd seriously consider using screws to attach each piece. Obviously you'll need to attach the first piece to the hull with clamps; but after that point the frustration I had was from the lack of getting the clamps to work well on such thin stock and after I started using the screws it was a simple process and I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I've read that the purpose of the transom is to support the engine and the larger area you can spread that weight, the better. It seems like that's what this has done... but I've done exactly zero rebuilds prior to this one so take that in consideration too. :joyous:

After 5 layers I'm now right at 1 1/2" which is exactly what the original transom was too. I wanted to be sure my splash well was going to be about where I needed it to be reinstalled when the time came so I set it back in place and it looks like I'll be pretty close. With a little grinding I should be able to glass it back in place. I've read other builds that specifically cut the splash well out instead of lifting the whole cap and most seemed to put 1708 on the underside of the well, is that right? Mine has foam all over the underside of the splash well so if that's what I'll eventually need to do I'll need to grind that off and be sure I leave enough access to the cap side to enable that too.
Thanks again everyone for your help with this part of the process!
 

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Chris51280

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Jan 24, 2018
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897
Looks good. I think what makes a good builder is to turn little hick ups around and make it a success. There will always be more ways to build it. Like epoxy vs Poly, PB vs PL glue vs Titebond on the layers. To really know what works best is 10-15 years down the road and nobody will remember anyways. I guess what it comes down to is what you are comfortable with and what you think is in your abilities to make it work.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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401
Fillet and tabbed in with a couple layers of 1708.... First adventure with actual fiberglass went pretty well I thought. I screwed up a couple times that need to be ground and redone but I guessed it was probably not that unusual for the first go around. :D: I still need to add a couple pieces on the upper right and left side for the transom eyes and there was a kicker motor mount that I might reattach so I was going to tab those in separately from the transom, but I'm not sure if I should skin the transom and those additional pieces together as one piece? I'd have to fill the void between the two with PB I guess... Originally they looked like they were all covered with gelcoat as one.
 

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Mechanicalmike08

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If I understand you right I would put the skin coat on before adding anything else so that your transom is isolated from other pieces if water did ever get in again. Plus its nice and flat now and easier to skin than having to work around stuff.
 

Chris51280

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Jan 24, 2018
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897
Did you wet out the csm before putting it on? Makes a big difference so you don't have to push the resin through the woven fabric.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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If I understand you right I would put the skin coat on before adding anything else so that your transom is isolated from other pieces if water did ever get in again. Plus its nice and flat now and easier to skin than having to work around stuff.

Okay, that makes sense. The additional pieces wouldn't be right on the transom, but right next to it. But looking at it closer today the transom eye holes are so close to the transom that I'll have to put those extra pieces right next to it so I might skin the transom with one layer of 1708 and then put a layer of CSM over the it and include the extra pieces too. Thanks for the help!
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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Did you wet out the csm before putting it on? Makes a big difference so you don't have to push the resin through the woven fabric.

I did, and thank you! You're right, wetting the CSM side down before putting into position seemed to make it go really nicely. The one thing I forgot about, and I can even remember Friscoboater saying it after I saw it happen, is where the glass hits the very top of the hull the two layers edges were right on top of each other and the second layer "lifted". I ground the high spots down and I've got to add the other pieces right above that area tomorrow anyway so I should be able to seal it up pretty well with PB or some new resin and glass.
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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Here are the pieces glued into one and I just have them resting in place to see how to proceed and now I'm wondering again... maybe I should just cover them with CSM to waterproof and glue into place with PB? There's so little room to tab them in I'm wondering if that would be better... or should I tab them the best I can with the room that's there? Again, they only are providing area to attach the eye bolts and possibly the kicker motor... as well as anything else attached to the stern. Any preferences?

Uggg... forgot pics and I guess I can't edit them in so they will follow.
 

steve_h7

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Pics:
 

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dezmond

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 21, 2010
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Cover them outside of the boat, it's a lot easier. Then PB them in and clean up and your good to go. I don't see why you would have tab them. If done right, they won't come off or break. Just make sure you got lot's of squeeze out when you PB them in.
 

Chris51280

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Jan 24, 2018
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with dezmond here. Wrap them with csm on the front and sides. maybe do it twice. then clamp it in with PB and make a nice transition. The front could be tabbed/covered with 1708 and transition onto the main transom
 

kcassells

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Oct 16, 2012
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All the wood looks raw? Did you wet out all sides and edges of every pc.prior to install?
 

steve_h7

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Sep 16, 2018
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Cover them outside of the boat, it's a lot easier. Then PB them in and clean up and your good to go. I don't see why you would have tab them. If done right, they won't come off or break. Just make sure you got lot's of squeeze out when you PB them in.


with dezmond here. Wrap them with csm on the front and sides. maybe do it twice. then clamp it in with PB and make a nice transition. The front could be tabbed/covered with 1708 and transition onto the main transom

:thumb: Perfect, thanks again for the help!
 
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