First rebuild - '89 Campion Allante 185 - Stringers, Deck, Transom

Mad Props

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Agree, it looks good to me... Only comment would be to maybe switch to a hand sander or random orbit sander with like 120 grit and feather out the gel just a little bit more.. Looks to only be a taper through the gelcoat layer of about 1/2" at the most. I would try to get the taper width around an inch or more if possible... Gives you the best chance of the new gelcoat to adhere and feather out nicely.
 

steve_h7

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Thanks to you all... great to hear! :)
Knowing I shouldn't need access to the inside of the hull/transom I'll continue on with getting prepped to start laminating up the new wood for the curved transom.
Thanks again!
 

steve_h7

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Build has been on hold waiting for the new year so I can finance wood for the transom and order 'glass supplies, etc... so we're almost ready to ramp things back up! But thinking in the future I wonder about how I should handle this when I get there:
The original deck wasn't tabbed directly to the hull like I see on most builds. I made a rough drawing of how I found it when I did the demolition and I'll include some pictures that might show what I see too. I'm not sure I need this little 9" "shelf" looking protrusion but I see most recommending putting things back the way the factory had it. Do you think there's a structural reason it was built like this or was it more of just a design preference? I'm really not sure if I want to put it back the way it was unless I should and I'd rather use PB in any gap between deck and hull and tab it in.

Any guesses as to if this is structural or can I tab it in and if I want the shelf, just add it on top of the tabbed in deck?
Thanks!
 

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steve_h7

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Build has been on hold waiting for the new year so I can finance wood for the transom and order 'glass supplies, etc... so we're almost ready to ramp things back up! But thinking in the future I wonder about how I should handle this when I get there:
The original deck wasn't tabbed directly to the hull like I see on most builds. I made a rough drawing of how I found it when I did the demolition and I'll include some pictures that might show what I see too. I'm not sure I need this little 9" "shelf" looking protrusion but I see most recommending putting things back the way the factory had it. Do you think there's a structural reason it was built like this or was it more of just a design preference? I'm really not sure if I want to put it back the way it was unless I should and I'd rather use PB in any gap between deck and hull and tab it in.

Any guesses as to if this is structural or can I tab it in and if I want the shelf, just add it on top of the tabbed in deck?
Thanks!

I'm not sure if this is a tough question or I just worded it so badly that no one knows what I'm talking about :) but I'm still wondering how and/or where I should tab the new deck back in?
 

kcassells

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Nah... looks like odd use of space you can lose it or make all the way over to the hull for seating or storage.
 

steve_h7

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Perfect! That's what I thought but just wasn't sure enough to do it without asking. Thanks!
 

Mad Props

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Odds are it was a space for the designers to sneak in some extra floatation foam... I had something similar on mine and it was full of foam
 

steve_h7

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They, along with everywhere else, was full of foam... seems hard to believe that they need more!
But you're probably right since I can't figure much other reason for them to exist. It is an odd little space between
the sides of the hull and the seat boxes.
 

steve_h7

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I completely underestimated winter in the Pacific NW and thought I could use a boat cover and work inside but I'm old and hate the cold and after sitting crouched inside that cover for an hour or so I knew this wasn't going to happen. But I really want to have the boat ready to use this summer and we'll have 40-50* weather till near July so I got this cheap cover and a 60k propane heater that is on order.
To refresh memories I'll be doing a laminated curved transom and wondered if PB is best between layers of plywood or Tightbond III? Normally I've seen people coat the plywood with resin but since mine has to stay flexible to attach to the curved hull, should I skip this step and glue it without other treatment? Or does the resin not make the 1/4" plywood layers stiff enough to not flex to the shape of the transom and I should treat the first (or all 6 layers?) with resin?
 

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Chris51280

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are you only doing 1/4 panels? Maybe do 1 layer and glue that down with PB. After that is cured, lay the next one with titebond. in this case bending single panels to conform to the shape is not that difficult. Can do a dry run with just the panels and see how they will follow the curve.
 

steve_h7

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are you only doing 1/4 panels? Maybe do 1 layer and glue that down with PB. After that is cured, lay the next one with titebond. in this case bending single panels to conform to the shape is not that difficult. Can do a dry run with just the panels and see how they will follow the curve.

Yes, I'll be doing 6 individual layers of 1/4" plywood. And PB'ing the first to the hull and then using Tightbond III on the rest makes sense. Thanks for that!
I've never used resin/fiberglass so I don't know how stiff that makes the plywood... should I do a waterproof coating of resin on each layer or skip it and just worry about doing it after all layers are glued and cover it all with CSM and 1708 then?
 

Chris51280

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there is no need to lay csm between the layers. what you want is a sealed transom and structurally sound with the 1708. some people put csm on the backside but i believe that would be not necessary since you use pb and pb has csm fibers in them. just give it a coating of resin
 

steve_h7

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there is no need to lay csm between the layers. what you want is a sealed transom and structurally sound with the 1708. some people put csm on the backside but i believe that would be not necessary since you use pb and pb has csm fibers in them. just give it a coating of resin

Thanks. I hadn't planned on CSM between the layers, only questioning resin alone coating each of the 6 layers. The CSM/1708 would only be applied to the outside of the finished laminated transom and covering it and attaching it to the hull. So I should be okay coating each 1/4" plywood layer with resin and gluing it to the previous piece clamped to the hull?
 

Chris51280

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no need for that either. the resin will probably not work well together with titebond. titebond is wood glue that is waterproof. the same stuff thats between the plywood layers
 

Woodonglass

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Just use Titebond III for each layer. No need for resin until it's all done and formed to the curve. What's your plan for clamping?
 

steve_h7

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Thank you both!
I think I got it.. no resin till it's all glued in. I'll use PB between the hull and the first 1/4" piece and then Tightbond III on all the subsequent layers. Then 1708 on the outside of the completed laminated transom.

wog, I planned on using two or three clamps like you showed in the stickies in the middle where the splash well came from. I realize now why you suggested I cut the whole rear cap off and not just the splash well like I did... but I guess hindsight is 20/20. :joyous:
Now I was thinking that if I clamped the center section the outer "wing" sections, since the transom is curved in towards the middle, would tend to press themselves to the hull without a lot of exterior clamping. I'll add a picture of what I thought of trying to do... the two outer pieces (outlined in blue) really only support the two tie down cleats (I'm guessing that's what they're called... they're U shaped metal brackets that tie straps attach to the boats rear hull and to the trailer when transporting the boat) and the swim platform. The curved pieces of 1/4" plywood making up the main transom is the part outlined in red. The center part would be clamped where the splash well has been cut out, and the outer wings would (hopefully) press themselves into the hull due to its curved nature. Does that make sense? If so, do you think that would work?
If not the other alternative was to build a support in the boats interior and then use bottle jacks to put pressure one those outer wing portions of the main transom.
I'd love to hear your thoughts.
 

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steve_h7

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My cheap little cover was no match for a record snowfall... UPS is scheduled to deliver a new, better quality one today if they can make it. More snow due in the coming days too so no progress till old man winter finishes:
 

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chevymaher

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Mine was like yours in the pic the day I went to pick it up. I babysit mine all night when it snows now. That is why the admiral says get the yard ready for a steel roofed car port this summer. So I can sleep.
 

chevymaher

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The little loops on the outer edge that you use to tie the boat to the trailer. I drilled them and used washer nuts and bolts on the outer edges. I used screws and washers where the swim deck braces were to. just smaller ones so when the swim deck went on they were like starter holes.
 

steve_h7

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The little loops on the outer edge that you use to tie the boat to the trailer. I drilled them and used washer nuts and bolts on the outer edges. I used screws and washers where the swim deck braces were to. just smaller ones so when the swim deck went on they were like starter holes.

But the loops and swim ladder (I misspoke when I said platform before) didn't require to be attached to the actual transom, correct? If I put it together like the picture with the outlines, they would be attached to the 1 1/2" thick "wing" portions and not to the curved, laminated transom, if that would work. The wing portions I'd make just out of 2 pieces of 3/4" ACX laminated and PB'd in place. I guess I could fill the voids between the transom and the wing parts with PB too and then glass the whole thing at once with 1708 as opposed to doing it in 3 pieces.
 
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