1990 4.3 Century 2000 - Floor,Transom,Stringer,Upholstery Project

[Chris51280]

If you look closely, the center is not even part of the deck and is 1-2 inches below the main deck. They added another carpet piece over the relocated glass and made UT even with the rest of the deck. The middle 24inches are removable all the way to the front. Almost impossible to cut underneath because of the storage. The hallway has a glass floor that is attached to the upper part. I will cut 1-2 inches from the bottom up to make it even with the rest of the deck

 

[Chris51280]

Got a lot of foam out this weekend. I used a saw and cut around in squares and the broke it out with a pry bar. Found out why my ski locker and most other boats don't drain. The center has foam that is now soacked with water. Since the tank was sitting on the outside edges only, I figured i will make it even with a board across and put strips of rubber around so air can still get around the tank. I will leave the center under the tank free so water can drain back to the rear bilge area. Underneath will be foamed but with a 3/4 pvc pipe from the ski locker to the bilge. Or should i leave the foam underneath off?

 

[dezmond]

Good progress. The itchy’s will be starting soon

 

[Chris51280]

Hope so. That means progress and a fresh start to rebuild. I hope I can glass over the winter in the barn. Outside was 35F and inside I got it up to 60F after 3 hours. I know 60F is the minimum to glass. Woodonglass . what is the secret yo glass at lower temps?

 

[Chris51280]

I got all the stringers and foam out. I will have to use the oszilating tool to get the floor under the tank and ski locker out. Any idea on how to get the motor mounts off? Angle grinder with cut off wheel? Still have to do the transom. I think woodonglass mentioned the circular saw and cut it in squares. I only have the small triangle shape transom. The stringers werend even attached to it. I think I will beef this up when i start glassing.
how should I cap the stringers? I think 1.5oz chop strand down to the 2 layers of 1708 should be enough. Is it needed to cap with 1708?
the ends and top weren't capped with anything. I believe any capping with csm or 1708 is gonna be more than sufficient and will be more than the oem did.

 

[chevymaher]

I covered the stringers with CSM before they went in. So 2 layers of csm on top was the thinnest. side thinnest was 1708 and csm. Bottom had 2 layers of csm and 2 of 1708

 

[Chris51280]

Wow. Thats a lot. I was planning only 2 layers of 1708 on the side overlapping since that will give most strength. I will make it almost to the top. Maybe 2 layers of can on top to cap

 

[chevymaher]

I just wanted the wood sealed no excuses. I do not want to go through this on this boat again. Maybe a different one. I got the sickness now. I like itching. I used alot of glass on my boat. It been run in the river it does what it is supposed to.

What mickey said rings true. Making it stronger when it already is going to be fine while your disc in your back are crushed.

But the added strength and flotation foam. It is a quiet riding critter now. No water slapping sounds like I hear in some boats. I think the added effort was well worth it.

 

[Chris51280]

Anybody else will have to replace the number 7 bolts? It's the only one that corroded badly. Its a 7/16-14 x 4.25". I think I can replace it with a stainless bolt. 18-8.

 

[Chris51280]

I got a captains chair but no pedestal base. I found one for sale new for $35 on cl. But the base is not rated for a drivers seat. Why is that? Do you think this one would not be strong enough? I will shorten it about 2 inches since 14 is too high.
what is you opinion. Should I just get it for this price?

 

[Chris51280]

[No message]

 

[chevymaher]

Now that is funny I don't care who you are.

 

[Chris51280]

I'm currently more on the sterndrive page since I tear down my donor motor. I will hopefully be working on the transom and some grinding over the weekend and post more pictures of that.

 

[Chris51280]

Perfect for this time of the year

 

[Chris51280]

Been busy with the engine rebuild to get this out of the way and get parts ordered.
worked on the boat some more today and removed part of the transom. I have to say, I'd rather cut stringers and deck. There were some kind of dowels near the bolt holes. Anybody ever see something like this? I think the transom is the most structural part of the boat where they did not skimp on the glass. :facepalm:

 

[kcassells]

Looks like you are kicking some butt. Those dowels make me think a new motor went in so new drill out holes required.
Lookin Nice. Let the grinding fun begin.

 

[Chris51280]

I'm getting piston rings today and hopefully the bearings next week. This weekend I will prep for grinding. I have a 5hp blower that i used for leaf pickup that I will somehow attach to the keyhole and suck out all the dust into the open outside. Will build a tent over the boat so the dust will be contained. should work kinda like a wind tunnel. :lol:. I will post pictures on how this will look like. Not sure it will work.

 

[Chris51280]

I think I got it preped for tomorrow so the grinding can begin. How long did it take you to grind the hull? The vacuum should take care of the dust in the air. The motor will be outside and I will put a fan to the front of the boat to create a wind tunnel. I will let you know how it works out

 

[chevymaher]

Looks like a big mess where ever your pumping the dust I like it.

 

[Chris51280]

Ok so I started grinding today. The vacuum system worked ok. It keeps the dust in the boat to a minimum. I still have lots of it inside that I filled a garbage bag today.

There are a couple of questions I have.
There is a lot of chop strand material on the transom face. Do I have to grind that all off? It's about 1/8". You can see it on the spot that I ground down. My transom measured 2.4" thick. Maybe it swelled up???

Does all the tabbing and chop strand need to come off from the areas that I will use for the new stringer tabbing? So to sand it down to the nice pink roven???

What did you use for grinding? I have a 4.5" grinder with 36grit discs that use the plastic backer. They seem to get dull after 1-2 min of grinding. I can still use them but it just takes longer to get down to the pink hull. Are the flapper discs any better?

Maybe its just the harbor freight brand or the discs are not the best for fiberglass.