Rustoleum marine topside, below waterline

[PlayD0h]

So I bought some Rustoleum marine topside primer and paint, yet I intend on painting the entire aluminum hull. Boat is a Starcraft SS16, it’s been stripped to bare aluminum.
Ive searched and found opinions both for and against using this paint below the waterline. I rarely use a marina and could easily not use one. At most it would be say 3 days in a marina.
Now my thinking is that I’m sure the regular rustoluem isn’t recommended for below waterline or even on boats at all, since they have a marine line of paint. Yet obviously the regular Rustoluem has seen many hull bottoms, so why would their marine paint fair any less?
Another train of thought is why use a paint in a way that’s clearly reccomended to not do? I have 2 quarts of marine primer, one regular Rustoluem, and 2 quarts of marine paint.
My hope is to get at least my hull bottom painted so I can flip my boat back upright and then work on the rest of the boat all winter. Since flipping the boat after all the work and interior installed isn’t something I’d even attempt.
Yet worst case scenario I could cut and fit all the interior then only temporarily fasten what needs fastening, then remove deck and interior next spring and paint the hull then.
Ive considered leaving the hull bottom bare, but I’d much prefer paint.

 

[zool]

If u striped it bare, you need to treat the hull before you prime and paint....you can use and etching primer, a wash primer, an epoxy primer, or an alodine/alumiprep treatment.

Self etching primer is the least expensive, SEM makes a good one.

Rustoleum Marine is basically the same as Rustoleum Pro, but comes in more "boat like" colors, like Oyster White.....lable something marine and you can charge more.

Ur fine if its only moored for a week or less at a time, with either paint.

 

[PlayD0h]

If u striped it bare, you need to treat the hull before you prime and paint....you can use and etching primer, a wash primer, an epoxy primer, or an alodine/alumiprep treatment.

Self etching primer is the least expensive, SEM makes a good one.

Rustoleum Marine is basically the same as Rustoleum Pro, but comes in more "boat like" colors, like Oyster White.....lable something marine and you can charge more.

Ur fine if its only moored for a week or less at a time, with either paint.

Thanks Zool. I should have mentioned that I was aware of the aluminum prep. I plan on doing the vinegar and Diet Coke wipe, and either etching primer or an epoxy if I get some money soon enough.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would use the proper materials vs diet coke. at work, we simply sand everything with 320 , wipe with acetone and then immediately shoot with an etching primer.

 

[Woodonglass]

The last link in my signature below has all the info you need to paint your aluminium boat the right way. I'm with Zool..DON'T use Diet Coke!!!

 

[gm280]

Thanks Zool. I should have mentioned that I was aware of the aluminum prep. I plan on doing the vinegar and Diet Coke wipe, and either etching primer or an epoxy if I get some money soon enough.

Thanks again, much appreciated.

Please don't use diet anything. Use the proper materials. If you use any diet soda for your etching process and any remains on the hull, there is no telling what it will cause down the road. Think of it this way, you already went through a lot of work to have it to bare metal. Why waste that effort with suspect materials? JMHO

 

[PlayD0h]

Thanks guys. In all honesty the Diet Coke sounded out there, and yes cleaning it 100% off would be sketchy. I was going off this post within the “how to prep aluminum”

Re: Steps to Prep Aluminuim with pics

I can see the flame thrower's being charged YD is going to cook me alive!!!

Alumiprep is phosphoric acid and either. The acid removes corrosion and the either dries the solution. I use vinegar which is not as strong and diet coke (not sugared coke) has a similar effect for removing the corrosion.

Alodine creates a slight chromate conversion which is why it leaves a green/gold hue behind on the bare aluminum...... essentially it is a chromate treatment. Following YD's prep method actually puts two coats of zinc chromate on the aluminum.

So...... in the past many of us (me included) have sanded, wiped the hull with vinegar, used a light coat of zinc chromate from a rattle can and then painted.

There have been reports from other iboats people that have received similar instructions from paint manufacturer's. It's your choice which to follow. Yes alumiprep and alodine are not common and can be hard to find depending on where you are.

 

[PlayD0h]

The rustoluem primer directions say to sand with 150 grit, wipe clean with acetone then prime. The guy at the shop told me that ‘etching’ removes corrosion chemically, and sanding it removes it manually. I grabbed a couple rattle cans of Self-Etching primer since I can’t see how it would hurt and because it’s what so many people on here suggest.
So I’ll sand with 150, wipe with acetone, do a vinegar wipe for bonus points, a light coat of SE primer, then the Rustoluem topside primer, followed by paint. 2-3 coats of paint.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd also strongly recommend that you use the Acrylic enamel hardener. By the way, by the time you get the boat sanded and cleaned the first part you did has already started to corrode. YUP, it happens that fast. SE Primer IS a must on any bare aluminium.

 

[PlayD0h]

I'd also strongly recommend that you use the Acrylic enamel hardener. By the way, by the time you get the boat sanded and cleaned the first part you did has already started to corrode. YUP, it happens that fast. SE Primer IS a must on any bare aluminium.

Very good to know. Thank you very much for that and the virtual encyclopedia of info you’ve shared. I’d be lost if not for the few like you.

 

[PlayD0h]

I’m going to go the Alumiprep and Alodine prep method. I found a local aircraft parts shop that sells gallons of each for $60. I doubt I’ll need half a gallon on each, but oh well. I’ll see if some auto paint places can get me quarts.